DW (Dave)
There is a fine line between numerator and denominator.
Merda taurorum animas conturbit.
"Let's ride motorcycles!"
Now I'm not too technical on the old bike, I just put the fuel in and polish the plastic but I did have this issue on my '04 XL1000. It would cut out at junctions and took ages to start again (it got to a stage where I was considering getting someone to look under the hood!).
However I threw caution to the wind and forked out for a new battery as the one on it was on it when I bought the bike second hand. This seemed to stop the cutting out issue. It hasn't done it since. I also put it on a battery maximiser if its not going out for a couple of weeks.
May be nothing but for £40 or so it may be worth a try.
It was piddling down yesterday, very hard, but it has cut out many times in the dry. When I have time I am going to email Honda UK, they are bound to be less useless than the French.
I am going out for a ride soon and to pay particular attention to the tickover speed.
I have just finished running in my new V8 vara and after the 600 mile service the bike's tickover was barely above 1000rpm and the engine died at tickover and when coming to a junction.
On previous experience with most dealer servicing they tend to overfill the engine with oil, so low and behold after I drained off 250mlthe oil level is now at the upper mark and my tickover is back to 1200rpm.
Might be worth checking if you suffer low tickover and stalling on a FI model.
Great tip. Thanks.![]()
DW (Dave)
There is a fine line between numerator and denominator.
Merda taurorum animas conturbit.
"Let's ride motorcycles!"
I've had mine cut out a few times, the common denominator has been, good hard accelation in 3rd - let it over run before changing down to 2nd and slip the clutch on approach to the junction or slip road and it just dies, no warning, no histrionics.
Ambient up around 30 C, dry and engine temp normal, starts again 1st or 2nd prod and no apparent ill effects. I am running std cans with K & N filter, forget which plugs. 03 FI with 86k klms on her.![]()
Never had mine actually cut out, but I do get an ocassional spit back into the air box - sounds like a muted backfire under the tank, the revs take a big dip and then pick back up again. I haven't really isolated a sequence of events that makes it happen but it seems to be just before or just after a blip of the throttle. A spit back into the air box I have always understood to be due to lean running, so the lambda sensor (or something) cutting back the fuel mix would make sense (to my limited knoweldge and undertanding anyway).
The other little problem I get from time to time is a flat refusal to start - its usually on the button, hot or cold, but sometimes the engine turns and nothing. A quick flick of the kill switch to off then back to on always cures it. (I never normally touch the kill switch so it shouldn't be that really). Thoughts?
2001 Transalp XLV650. Faithful old friend still chugging away nearly 100,00miles
2007 Varadero XLV1000. Now you're torquing but sadly gone to another forum member. One of the best bikes - period.
Yamaha XT660r - slowly getting it ready for some big adventures
I had the popping on overrun which both myself & mechanic were convinced was on the induction side. Correct, he traced it to the rubbers between the throttle body & head leaking air in on high vacumn, both were hard dry and cracked, one appeared scorched. Replacing those resolved that, smoother running and better fuel economy
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