Sw motech crashbars

[Freerangestormer]

I have seen earlier (pre 03) Givi bars that touched the right side brake pipe where it crossed the frame, this was rectified on later issues and it is easily sorted with a very small 'bend' if you know about it. Other than that paint finish scratches a bit more easily than with other makes.

[Boris]

I have seen earlier (pre 03) Givi bars that touched the right side brake pipe where it crossed the frame, this was rectified on later issues and it is easily sorted with a very small 'bend' if you know about it. Other than that paint finish scratches a bit more easily than with other makes.

The latest kits form Givi come with a spacer and a longer bolt for the right hand side to clear the brake pipe.

The biggest issue I had with the Givis was the paint damage they picked up in the post due to being poorly packaged (by Givi) with the fitting kit bouncing around and chipping the paint on the bars. The only other issue I have is the plate under the headlamp touching the forks on full lock, just before the lock stop does its thing. Others have the same issue so it's not just my bike.

[Maritimer]

Well that's interesting. It seems to be minor problems that Varadero owners can cope with. I'll calculate my cost to have both the SW motech and Givi crash bars, including shipping and taxes. If they're about the same price, I'll take SW Motech. I get the feeling that the Givi bars will be cheaper and that might sway me to take them. I really appreciate everyone's feed back and opinions.

[Percy1]

Fitted the SW Motech crashbars on the weekend. A bigger task than I thought but I'm very pleased with the finished item- very substantial (3 good mounting points) and they look the part. They appear to have a good quality finish.

From opening the garage door to closing it (including tea and biscuits, 1/2 time sarnies and a 10 mile road test) was 4 hours. If I had to do it again I would be much quicker - the instructions that came with the 'bars were very limited and...........you learn by your mistakes

To fit the 'bars you will have to remove the following - my bike is a 2009 reg V8 ....

the small black trim panel under the headlights
the "3 pointed star" trim panels
the side fairing inner trim panels
the fairing panels

I also unbolted the fuel tank and disconnected the fuel lines in order to move the tank back a couple of inches to have better access.

Sounds difficult but if you take your time its relatively straight forward (I also had help from my new manual - thanks Mr Haynes)

All part numbers refer to the SW Motech parts list that comes with the 'bars. This can be seen here:
http://www.bikegear.co.za/att/Honda%...01_322_100.pdf

Each crashbar is in 2 main pieces - the main part (1) that runs from the main engine mount along and around the fairing panel, and a short support arm (2) that attachs to the frame where the main upper fairing/cockpit framework fits. This support arm is the reason the instructions say you have to detach (note: unbolt - not remove/drain etc) the radiators and use spacers and new bolts to move the rads outwards for extra clearance. Now the bars are fitted I would say that the extra clearance is only needed on the r/h side (for the radiator fan housing).

The 2 sections of each crashbar are joined with an outer "clamp" (4). A third, lower mounting (3 & 16), attachs the bars to the engine by the front exhaust pipe.

Everything lined up correctly and I didn't encounter any problems with the "fit and finish" of the 'bars.

Tips :
Fit the clamps 180 degrees opposite to that shown in the picture in the instructions ie with the allen bolts at the top with the bolt heads facing the forks. This makes it much easier to do the bolts up.

Trust me on this one.........Fit the 'bars, tighten everything up and double check everything before you refit the fairing panels. If you are happy with your work then, one side at a time, unbolt the rear crashbar mounting, undo the front allen bolt on the clamp, undo/remove the small nut and bolt (14 & 15) attaching the lower mount and remove the main part of the crashbar (1) only. Do not undo/move the support arm (2). Refit the the fairing panels for the side you are working on - refit the main part of the crashbar - tighten everything up and refit the 3 pointed star trim panels.

*As per instructions use locktite in the appropriate places!

[Maritimer]

Thanks for all the details and sharing your knowledge.

[Freerangestormer]

Good write up Sir.

Good grief I am glad I have the older Vara

Glad to see they have gone to flat bars on the cross braces and anchored them in the middle, a tube with a flattened end will bend very easily at the flattened part, go on ask me how I know .

[Gregger]

I have SW's on the new shape machine, a tri colour 2006

Never took owt off or unid radiators

A few bolts out and replace, straight forward

Not sure if things have changed

[Maritimer]

I ordered the Givi crash bars today. $260 Cnd + tax (13%) compare to $200 US, plus shipping and duty taxes. I hope I made a good choice, price by itself is not always a good reason to buy a product but I'm hoping that the Givi crash bars will also have some quality compare to SW. From the research and teh feed back on the forums, there seems to be pros and cons with either brand.

Purchasing from the USA is very expensive in shipping and duty can be as high as 20% or more. Even though the Canadian dollar is climbing against the US, it's still substantial in value. It's back ordered but should be in sometimes in June.