XR 4 oil consumption

[phil w]

I check the oil regularly on the 400 and change it at 1000kms. The bike has had extensive and expensive surgery, full rebuild and runs better than ever but still uses oil?
This seems to happen after a good day out. I can go local say 50kms,do trails and get home and nothing changes. Then I do a good long day out 60/70kms, with a 25km tarmac home and it gets checked and I can put 0.8 of a lit in.
Doesnt seem to smoke at all, no oil leaks but it feels like a good quantity of oil to be using. Is it the tarmac higher constant engine revs?? It really only travels at 56 mph mind

[AlanH]

That uses more oil than my CRM!

When I was running an XBR500 as a courier, I found that motorway trips did result in far more oil use than hacking around town. Fully synth disappeared slower than semi so maybe it's worth experimenting with different oils.

Is the crankcase breather system fine? Is the airbox oily (if it vents into the airbox - don't know the layout I'm afraid). If it's running hot for some reason, that can cause issues too so is the mixture spot on at high speed? Is it running standard jetting? Maybe worth a plug chop to check it out.

[jasonbc]

I check the oil regularly on the 400 and change it at 1000kms. The bike has had extensive and expensive surgery, full rebuild and runs better than ever but still uses oil?
This seems to happen after a good day out. I can go local say 50kms,do trails and get home and nothing changes. Then I do a good long day out 60/70kms, with a 25km tarmac home and it gets checked and I can put 0.8 of a lit in.
Doesnt seem to smoke at all, no oil leaks but it feels like a good quantity of oil to be using. Is it the tarmac higher constant engine revs?? It really only travels at 56 mph mind

Mine doesn't seem to use much oil but since i've put the silkolene in it the bike smokes. I just put the Rock Guardian back in it hopefully that will stop it smoking after an oil change or 2. Apparently it's common with some Castrol and silkolene oils

[XR Mad]

Phil i've been keeping a close eye on my oil level for a while now after i noticed alot of oil was being used on a long run and the oil was black as tar when changed. This seemed like it all started after i drown it on salsbury plain so i put it down to piston rings but like yours no smoke at all when you screw it or on over run.
recently i change oil from bell ray thumper to a 10-40 semi syn diesel oil because i was using about 300ml for a 200mile run and bell ray was £29 for 4L and the halvoline was £37 for 5 gallons thats not a mistake £37 for 5 gallons.
using the bell ray was costing too much, since this change i have notice oil consumption has halfed for the same milage. Although if i have a gentle run staying below 60mph i use hardly any oil at all although this does increase with speed and have satisfied myself that these engines do use oil if you are running high rev's for long distances. I have about 14000 miles on mine now and recently had a go of a friends xr400 with about 3000km on it and there was very little difference in performance his felt a little bit more responsive both bikes had standard exhausts and 15-40 gearing although my mate puts super unleaded in his and i stick to the cheap stuff
I'm not saying put diesel oil in your bike this is something i started doing to save money as i was planing to rebuid the engine in the winter i have done about 4000miles using this oil now and had no problems at all i change the oil and filter every 1000miles. I know everyone will say dont put car oil in your bike but if it will last 10000miles in a turbo deisel engine it should have no problem doing a 1000 in a bike.
Thanks for putting the thread up Phil most people wouldn't admit to their bikes using oil, i'm going to keep running mine until it breaks now and then i'll rebuild it. I will say that does sound like alot of oil for the distance your doing have you rechecked the oil the next day after topping up to see if the level is too high then

This was the drowning

[jasonbc]

Phil i've been keeping a close eye on my oil level for a while now after i noticed alot of oil was being used on a long run and the oil was black as tar when changed. This seemed like it all started after i drown it on salsbury plain so i put it down to piston rings but like yours no smoke at all when you screw it or on over run.
recently i change oil from bell ray thumper to a 10-40 semi syn diesel oil because i was using about 300ml for a 200mile run and bell ray was £29 for 4L and the halvoline was £37 for 5 gallons thats not a mistake £37 for 5 gallons.
using the bell ray was costing too much, since this change i have notice oil consumption has halfed for the same milage. Although if i have a gentle run staying below 60mph i use hardly any oil at all although this does increase with speed and have satisfied myself that these engines do use oil if you are running high rev's for long distances. I have about 14000 miles on mine now and recently had a go of a friends xr400 with about 3000km on it and there was very little difference in performance his felt a little bit more responsive both bikes had standard exhausts and 15-40 gearing although my mate puts super unleaded in his and i stick to the cheap stuff
I'm not saying put diesel oil in your bike this is something i started doing to save money as i was planing to rebuid the engine in the winter i have done about 4000miles using this oil now and had no problems at all i change the oil and filter every 1000miles. I know everyone will say dont put car oil in your bike but if it will last 10000miles in a turbo deisel engine it should have no problem doing a 1000 in a bike.
Thanks for putting the thread up Phil most people wouldn't admit to their bikes using oil, i'm going to keep running mine until it breaks now and then i'll rebuild it. I will say that does sound like alot of oil for the distance your doing have you rechecked the oil the next day after topping up to see if the level is too high then

This was the drowning

THATS MY KIND OF RIDING

[Daz Max]

This is a bit long winded,but here goes!

Not my view btw

Many motorcycle drivers are given conflicting recommendations about what type of oil to use in their vehicles. Numerous motorcycle manufacturers heavily promote the use of specially formulated motorcycle oils, claiming that these are better for the life of the motorcycle and will not wear down as quickly. In fact, it is perfectly safe to use oil formulated for automobiles in motorcycles, as long as the oil is of an appropriate viscosity and the motorcycle is kept well maintained, as all motor vehicles should be.
In most cases, it is recommended that motorcycle drivers use synthetic oils in their vehicles. Synthetic oil is more expensive than natural oil, but will stand up to wear and tear better, and tends to keep desired properties longer. Most oil companies are making affordable synthetic oils available and it is well worth the minimal extra investment to be assured a longer performing oil. Synthetic all purpose oil is still less costly than oil designed specifically for motorcycles.
All oil provides a rating which indicates the viscosity of the oil. The lower the rating, the lighter the oil is, meaning that it flows very easily. This is not an issue at low temperatures, but as the engine heats up, the oil will rapidly begin to degrade, and get very hot. As a result, drivers want an oil of high viscosity to ensure smooth running of the engine at high temperatures. Many oils come with a combined rating such as 20W-50, indicating that at low temperatures the oil flows smoothly and as the engine heats, the oil retains viscosity. Single grade oil is available, but multigrade is recommended.
The claim made by many manufacturers of specially formulated motorcycle oil is that oil designed for cars may actually damage the engine of a motorcycle. This is simply not true. While some oil designed for automotive use is not optimal in motorcycles, most oil is easily interchangeable, although motorcycles are more demanding on oil than cars are. Motorcycles still operate along the same internal combustion principles as cars do, after all.
In scientific testing, it has been determined that motorcycles will break down oil more quickly than cars, with the results being the same for both types of oil. Oil breaks down as repeated circulation shortens the polymers in the oil, causing the viscosity to be lowered. In addition, increased oxidation and repeatedly running too hot will cause oil to break down and become less effective. Testing also determined that synthetic oils are not as subject to break down as natural oils, and are therefore a better choice for drivers.

[phil w]

F kin hell guys some good replies. I will now really monitor the consumption of Guardian Rock oil and report my findings so we know where its at

[jasonbc]

This is a bit long winded,but here goes!

Not my view btw

Many motorcycle drivers are given conflicting recommendations about what type of oil to use in their vehicles. Numerous motorcycle manufacturers heavily promote the use of specially formulated motorcycle oils, claiming that these are better for the life of the motorcycle and will not wear down as quickly. In fact, it is perfectly safe to use oil formulated for automobiles in motorcycles, as long as the oil is of an appropriate viscosity and the motorcycle is kept well maintained, as all motor vehicles should be.
In most cases, it is recommended that motorcycle drivers use synthetic oils in their vehicles. Synthetic oil is more expensive than natural oil, but will stand up to wear and tear better, and tends to keep desired properties longer. Most oil companies are making affordable synthetic oils available and it is well worth the minimal extra investment to be assured a longer performing oil. Synthetic all purpose oil is still less costly than oil designed specifically for motorcycles.
All oil provides a rating which indicates the viscosity of the oil. The lower the rating, the lighter the oil is, meaning that it flows very easily. This is not an issue at low temperatures, but as the engine heats up, the oil will rapidly begin to degrade, and get very hot. As a result, drivers want an oil of high viscosity to ensure smooth running of the engine at high temperatures. Many oils come with a combined rating such as 20W-50, indicating that at low temperatures the oil flows smoothly and as the engine heats, the oil retains viscosity. Single grade oil is available, but multigrade is recommended.
The claim made by many manufacturers of specially formulated motorcycle oil is that oil designed for cars may actually damage the engine of a motorcycle. This is simply not true. While some oil designed for automotive use is not optimal in motorcycles, most oil is easily interchangeable, although motorcycles are more demanding on oil than cars are. Motorcycles still operate along the same internal combustion principles as cars do, after all.
In scientific testing, it has been determined that motorcycles will break down oil more quickly than cars, with the results being the same for both types of oil. Oil breaks down as repeated circulation shortens the polymers in the oil, causing the viscosity to be lowered. In addition, increased oxidation and repeatedly running too hot will cause oil to break down and become less effective. Testing also determined that synthetic oils are not as subject to break down as natural oils, and are therefore a better choice for drivers.

My friend is a service manager in an Aprillia Franchise, he had a customer come in and was asking him loads of questions about the oils that they use specifically fully sythetic. He told them they use what the service schedule dictates and for what reasons. Turned out the bloke used to work at a oil refinery in R&D and said that fully sythetic is a huge con as far as servicing goes. He stated that fully syth is designed for a specific use and to last the life of what it was being put into. I.E it should last the life of the bikes engine. Nobody in there right mind would leave oil in a bike that long so financially your better off buying semi-synthetic of mineral oil if you change it frequently. BUt i'm sticking with Rock and if that becomes scarce then Putoline

[TRANSPORTER]

Hey XR MAD, at last another rider who has discovered the virtues of DIESEL oil, I use it in my 250, had to put some in as an emergency last month, havnt noticed abit of difference in performance or useage at all, I use HALFORDS semi snth 10 40 DIESEL, it has the same sae ratings on the can as my ROCK oil does, it lubricates and comes out golden when I do my oil changes so as far as Im concerned its good oil, And a damn sight cheaper, my ROCK oil was £7.50 for a ltr as opposed to £6.99 for 5ltrs.
This is an ace thread and Im sure many people will put a post in with them being horrified that we are putting DIESEL oil our bikes, but hey it works

[XR Mad]

Hey XR MAD, at last another rider who has discovered the virtues of DIESEL oil, I use it in my 250, had to put some in as an emergency last month, havnt noticed abit of difference in performance or useage at all, I use HALFORDS semi snth 10 40 DIESEL, it has the same sae ratings on the can as my ROCK oil does, it lubricates and comes out golden when I do my oil changes so as far as Im concerned its good oil, And a damn sight cheaper, my ROCK oil was £7.50 for a ltr as opposed to £6.99 for 5ltrs.
This is an ace thread and Im sure many people will put a post in with them being horrified that we are putting DIESEL oil our bikes, but hey it works

I buy mine from owens fuels in bridgend 5 gallons at a time for my jeep so i just started sticking it in my bike to save money and so far it works well for me They do sell it in 1 litre and 5 litres as well but my jeep takes 6L so i buy 5 gal at a time to save travelling.
I forgot to mention i used to run my vfr750 on castrol gtx no problems at all and that had 64000miles on it when i sold it still going strong