Fitting a Powerlet/BMW power socket

From Honda Trail Bike Wiki

This is a variation on the theme detailed in the previous topic, maybe even a little less daunting for any electrical Neanderthals like myself!!. In fact I took the easier route, albeit the more expensive I suspect. On these grounds I decided that even I could have a go, and by all accounts I think it worked out quite nicely! I used one mid panel and one front kit.

I had a few different requirements for my socket(s) so decided not to bother with a switched live, and went straight to the battery with the fused loom provided in both cases.

The power sockets I chose to fit were of the style recognised by most as the ‘BMW’ type. I think the socket is some standard or other but Powerlet have gone to town on it and produce all sorts. I got mine from a very nice man called Mike at Sportouring. They cost me around £35 a piece (inc p&p) which I thought was a bit steep, but on receiving them they are of a very good build quality and can be fitted in the time it takes to remove your battery cover and loose the bolt under the freezer!

I liked the idea of putting the socket in its own box so went down the same road with the Maplins Abs box. The socket lid finishes quite flush in the side of the box and looks tidy.

I spent a while planning how I wanted to do all this before I even got any tools out. So even though its here in black and white, stop and have a think about how best suits you.

I wanted to be able to charge and run equipment regardless of the bike ignition. If I flattened the battery I would only do it once, unless I am a particularly slow learner!!

On my trip I ran all manner of things off the power point without problems including fast chargers and even one of those in the cup element gadgets to make a coffee, and all with and without the engine running. I didn’t flatten the battery once?!. Maybe just lucky! To charge unmanned the AT seat is that ill fitting that the wires can be run back under the seat and into the tool stash area.

Just a quick point; although it may seem a bit backwards I used a Powerlet to Twin Cigar socket extension. This allowed me to power two items with standard car connections at once in the tank bag and tank panniers. I chose the powerlet socket because of its compact finish when you unplug all the ugly spaghetti, and the positive connection/engagement you get with it. Most heated clothing also comes with that socket as an option, and I DO intend to get softer with age and use it in the coming UK winters!!

The rear socket was for the pillions heated jacket liner which for a Spanish woman is, believe me when I say ‘an essential item’ what ever the time of year and where ever you are in the world!

Back to fitting; the wires come with the crimp connectors and connector block attached which with care can be removed and replaced with a small flat bladed screwdriver . This is only necessary if you wish to use grommets to seal the wires in the box. You could just use silicon I guess but I like a tidy finish. The grommets(XJ71) I used were again from Maplin and come in a pack of 10 but for less than £2 I didn’t mind.

After removing the connectors and sliding the grommet in place over the wires and under the plastic sheath the crimp connectors can be replaced using correct crimping pliers or small long nosed pliers, taking care not to break them when re-fitting.

Using an 18mm hole saw and if I remember correctly approximately a 10 or 12mm drill for the grommet, drill the holes in the plastic box. And persuade the grommet into place with a small screwdriver. Watch your fingers and knuckles! You have been warned!

Then pop the socket in as per instructions and replace the connector block.

Fasten it all together and just before doing up the lid it might pay to tape a spare spade fuse to it just in case you forgot to replace that spare in the fuse box!

Oh and don’t forget the inline fuse.

For the rear power socket I used the shorter mid panel kit to avoid to much wire. Due to lack of space and location of where I wanted the socket (LH side and out of danger of being kicked getting on and off) I resorted to using a 35mm camera case as the backing box. It worked quite nicely but care had to be taken with the drilling as it is a very soft plastic.

To ensure I still had enough thread and the rubber seal around the socket I carefully split its thickness by half with a Stanley knife blade.

Using the same process as before I got the grommet attached and the connector block put back on. After drilling the side panel it is mearly a case of pushing it all together. Again I popped a spare fuse in the case.

It is advisable to have a good look at where the rear socket will fit. The decals are a good guide but it should be checked. I used a blob of bluetac and fiddled for half an hour to get it to fit around the rectifier.

I’m not sure about anyone else but I found a very suitable threaded hole in my frame and drilled out the fuse holder hole to take the right sized bolt. It fits very snugly up against the frame in this position.

All that is left to do is connect it to the battery terminals and pop the panel back on, and fasten the front box (screw side towards the clocks to stop them rattling out) with double sided sticky tape to the warning lights box.

Just as an addition (Cheers DunkerD!!) for those using bike powered GPS; before I stuck the box in place, another inline (smaller) fuse was added and its wires soldered to the crimp connectors in the connector block with just enough room to get them back in. A small groove was then filed for the wire to come out with cable tie to stop it pulling out, and a blob of silicon to seal it. This was an afterthought but worked very well and provided a nice tidy waterproof solution for my Streetpilot III power lead.

Hope this helps!

You can wire a socket straight into the battery, using correctly rated cable and inline fuse (in the positive wire) to suit the application. most low power things like GPSs or battery chargers will be happy with only 5A or even less. heated clothing or travel kettles will need a bit more beef.

i put the socket down here on my varadero because i had a nasty experience once with cables jammed in the headstock!! i get all my auto electrical bits from vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk they have some very neat solutions to problems you didnt know you had till you looked in their catalogue! good value, if you buy enough to make the P+P worth paying.