Fitting a power socket

From Honda Trail Bike Wiki

[edit] Introduction

Putting a power socket on a bike is very useful, and can be used to power any aftermarket accessories such as:

• Heated grips
• 12v lighter sockets
  • Mobile phone
  • MP3 Player
  • GPS etc
• and heated clothing..

This page describes an installation using a relay to supply a switched (on & off with the ignition) 12v feed. The benefits of wiring any items in this fashion are, minimal hacking of standard loom, reduced chance of overloading standard wiring and ease of isolation in case of electrical/mechanical problems.

[edit] Tools & Components

All of the required items are available from Maplins

The Relay

Rather than use scotch-locks, soldering is the preferred method of connection. Splicing into existing wires is pretty easy.

Strip the insulation

And twist on the second wire, then solder and insulate.

[edit] Where to mount the relay?

Next to the fuse box seems logical as this is also near the battery, on the Africa Twin there is plenty of room under the right hand side panel. In this case drilling a small hole and bolting through the plastic under-tray seemed a suitable solution.

[edit] 12v live from the battery

Closeup of the relay connections

Terminal Description 30 Fused positive direct from battery 85 To negative on battery or frame 86 Switched positive from fuse box 87 12v positive when ignition is on 87a 12v positive when ignition is off

This is the feed for connection 30. which should be fused, so the bike and/or gadgets have some protection. In the fuse box, there are spare holes that can be used. Alternatively, Maplins have an in-line fuse holder which could be used, if using the fuse box isn't an option.

If you push the female spade connectors (one from each wire) up into the back of the fuse box, they will fit OK, if a little loosely but they are held firmly in place by the fuse. Make sure the connectors are facing in opposite directions to make getting the fuse in a bit easier with the offset.

It’s a bit fiddly, but worth it as it gives a nice tidy solution. The ring connector goes to the positive battery terminal, and the other spade to the relay (30). Fuse selection is covered later.

[edit] Switched Live

Power needs to go to connector 86 on the relay. Finding a switched live is simple, using a multi-meter poke about in various connectors until one is found which is putting out about 12v but only when the ignition is on. Then find a suitable point on that wire to splice in. Consider splicing into a thicker rather than thinner wire, as it's easier to stip the insulation.

In the following picture you can see the red/black wire used. It's possible to see that the wire is actually feeding three sockets. Insulation is stripped, ready for soldering.

Connect the other end to relay terminal 86.

Note the negative (85) bolted to the frame. The two remaining connectors are 87(live when ignition is on) & 87a(live when ignition is off). If either are to remain un-used they should be blanked off.

[edit] Relay installation complete

Once completed, insulating the connectors, preferably using heatshrink is the best idea. The cable from 87 has been wrapped around the fuse box in the image, to allow a spare few inches of casble for future alteration, from there it runs up to the front of the bike to a 12v socket. It can also be split to power other units at the front of the bike such as heated grips.

Routing the cable forward

[edit] Fuse selection

The fuse you use is dependant on the amount of equipment you are powering. Manufacturers’ instructions should give an idea of power usage from which a fuse rating can be estimated. It’s best to start low, and see if the fuse blows. As an example:

• Heated grips (Oxford say less than 2amp)
• Autocom (Less than 1 amp)
• 12v socket to power PDA (2 amp)

In this case, a 4 or 5 amp fuse would work.

[edit] Cigarette Lighter Socket

The plastic box and socket came from Maplins. Nippy Normans also sell them here

The box doesn't come pre-drilled, but is easily done. Securing the socket into the box needs to be waterproofed using silicon gel or something similar. Self tapping screws, or preferably nuts and bolts should be used to secure it.

The negative from the socket is bolted to the frame, and the box can be bolted to the instrument console.

[edit] Installation complete