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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my AT a couple of weeks ago, when I checked it at the previous owner it started allright. All is well, I buy it, transport it home (on a trailer), and leave it resting for about a month, while I fix the tacho that didn't go over 4000 revs anymore.
Today I tried firing it up to check if the tacho works now, but nothing... the starter motor turns the engine but it doesn't come to life.
I tried with the killswitch on and off (starter motor will still turn in both cases), choke on and off, checked if the engine was in neutral, checked if it would start with the sidestand up (no difference), checked the fuel taps, still nothing.

I guess the problem must be either no fuel or no ignition, correct? Which one do you think is most likely?
How would I go about debugging this?

- My fuel taps only have 2 positions, so I guess that's on and off? Which way is open, I suppose pointing down?
- Did I flood it some way, is there a way to prevent that? Can I drain excess fuel from the carbs someway? Might help to get fresh fuel in there as well?
- Check for spark on both sparkplugs (or are there 4?) -> how?
- Disconnect fuel hoses, check if fuel comes out when taps are opened?
- As it's an RD04, the fuel pump is unlikely, correct? Either way, if I fill it up to the brim, gravity should make sure I get enough fuel, if the fuel pump is the issue, so that would be a way to test that, right?
- I don't think the carbs would have clogged up in one month?

A forum search learned my that I should check the choke cable and assembly as well, so I'll make sure to do that first tomorrow :)
In the meantime I'm trickle-charging the battery, as I have been trying to crank it for a while :)

Anything else I can try?

Thanks for taking the time to read my post and answering my questions!
 

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For the engine to fire you need fuel and a spark.

Check you have a spark by using a spare spark plug in the front and rear cylinder HT leads.

Check that fuel is entering the cylinders by removing a spark plug and seeing if it is wet.

If you have no spark, I would suggest checking the multi-connector (behind the screen) which the right switchgear plugs into.

If you have no fuel, I would check that the fuel pump is actually pumping fuel upto the carbs. Look at the (clear) fuel filter as you are cranking the engine, and you should see fuel pulsing through the filter (you MUST be cranking/starting the engine). If the fuel pump is NOT pumping, use a long piece of wood, one end on the pump, and give the other end a sharp tap with a hammer to see if it free's off the contacts in the pump (this has worked for me)

Try that, and let us know how you get on.



Bob :thumbup:
 

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I have two @s. One, left for months, will fire up pretty fast. The other, left for weeks only, takes ages. It has a vacuum pump and I suspect that once the vacuum has been lost it takes a long time to get the vacuum back. A standard battery will not suffice and will run out before it has got the beast going.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so I started by getting the tank off

those fuel lines are really tight, I could barely get them off (would heating them up a little (not with a flame off-course) have helped?)
tested both fuel taps, working fine. pointing down is indeed open :)

next I drained both carbs, there was fuel in them, so I guess the fuel won't be the problem


damaged the fuel line by getting it off (or it was already damaged), so I'll replace it.
the fuel filter is not clear anymore, so I couldn't see if fuel was flowing through, but as the carbs were full I suppose it's fine

I have no spare plugs yet, so I wanted to check the ones that are currently in the engine, but didn't have a tool in the proper size... to be continued


would heating the fuel lines help to get them off more easily?
 

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For the fuel lines, just squeeze the tabs on clamp to release it, then slide it up the line out of the way. The rubber pipes usually pop off if you give them a twist or ease them off with a flat bladed screwdriver.

If you're going to try heat, boil up the kettle and tip a bit of hot water over it, but to be honest I've never needed to.

You'll need the correct Honda plug tool to get all 4 spark plugs out, nothing else will do. Wemoto sell them.

Check the multiconnector for the right hand switchgear, which is the one on the far right on the front subframe, behind the clocks, and easily accessed by removing the screen.



Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i'll check the multiconnector tomorrow, what does that thing do?
with the clamps off (moved aside as you describe), the fuel lines still won't come off without using a lot of brute force, I think their age has made them stiff...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
since I didn't manage to get me a honda plug tool today, I didn't continue working on this yet. what about the multiconnector though, what should I check? what does it look like? what's it used for?
thanks for the help! :)
 

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since I didn't manage to get me a honda plug tool today, I didn't continue working on this yet. what about the multiconnector though, what should I check? what does it look like? what's it used for?
thanks for the help! :)

It's just a plug, nothing special. If you trace the cable that runs from the right side switchgear, it goes onto the right side of the line of sockets on the front of the front subframe (behind the windscreen) it plugs the stop/start/kill switch into the wiring loom. If there is a bad connection here, the bike will not start.



Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did mess around with the connectors in the front, as I disconnected the tacho in that same line of sockets...
I do hope that fixes my issue, thanks for the tip!
Would the starter still turn around if that was the case? Because I noticed switching the killswitch on or off didn't make a difference, the starter would still turn...
 

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I did mess around with the connectors in the front, as I disconnected the tacho in that same line of sockets...
I do hope that fixes my issue, thanks for the tip!
Would the starter still turn around if that was the case? Because I noticed switching the killswitch on or off didn't make a difference, the starter would still turn...
I've had a similar problem in the past, and that connector/circuit also affects the power to the fuel pump circuit.

Take the connector apart, check to see if there is any corrosion on the pins, use some WD40 on them, re-connect, thumb the starter!

Worth a check.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
checked the connectors, seemed allright. squirted some wd40 on them anyway and reconnected, reconnected the fuel tank (with those PITA fuel lines, really need to get me new still-flexible ones...), but still nothing. checked if the carbs (which were drained) got fuel by draining them again, there was fuel in them so I suppose the problem can only be the ignition. still have to find me a spark plug tool...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
damn wemoto is slow, they still need some stuff to come in stock before they can ship :(

Thanks for your order, we have all of your parts here except the fuel hose. I
expect it to be here at the beginning of next week, as soon as it arrives the
complete order will be shipped out to you.
weird that they don't have something as basic as a few metres of fuel hose in stock... causes my whole order to be delayed by a week...
anyway, as soon as I get it, I can continue trying to get the bike running :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
replaced all 4 spark plugs, and tested if they sparked by grounding against the frame and cranking the engine. all 4 sparked, so no problem there. tested if the engine would work with the new plugs, still no luck :(

new ones:


left back (the easily reachable one):

quite black, but seems clean enough. air/fuel mixture too rich?

right front:


very dirty :angry1: bad sign, should I think about having someone check the internals of my engine, or is it not that bad?

I suppose I'll have to get my carburators checked out?
 

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The hard-to-get-to plugs often get neglected during a service because they're too difficult to get to, or they're just not known about (people assume 2 cylinders = 2 plugs) Are they the same type?

Take the airbox off, and crank the engine and spray a little Easy Start into the carbs. If the engine fires, you've definitely got a fuel problem.



Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You must be right regarding the plugs, the normal looking ones are NGK R's, the dirty ones are regular NGK's, so they're probably older.

I'll have to get me some Easy Start (or similar product) on Monday, project back on hold... :)

Thanks for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
no not yet, too cold in the garage to work on this...
I tried with starter spray in the airbox in the meantime, with spray the engine turns over a couple of times, so I'm going to clean the carbs and replace the choke cable to see if that solves the problem
 

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I am having the exact same problem as you at the moment. If i leave my bike for more than a week it refuses to start.
I poured a bit of petrol in the airfilter and got it running. It was backfiring a bit and didnt want to idle. Took it for a thrash and it seemed a bit rough.
I have changed the plugs too.
I am going to try and clean the carbs and see how that works out.
My Garage is the opposite of yours. It must be about 60 deg C in there. I may have to go work under the mango tree.......

My choke mas been blanked off with a bolt! anyone know anything about that?
Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
reviving this old thread, but since I started it, I'm allowed to I suppose :)
finally got the carbs off,

I couldn't get the choke cable from one side off, the screw holding the plunger in place had rounded heads... so I had to cut the cable, luckily I have a spare one. Pic showing the cut cable:


With the carbs off I managed to put some pliers on the screw and work it out. I found brown grit/rust in there... That explains why my choke control on the handlebars was working so badly. The choke plunger itself was stuck tight, I tried loosening it but no luck.

The rounded head of the screw, all fubar, I'll need to find a new one :/


The plunger, sorry for the bad pic.


As I was composing this post I let it soak in WD40, and I managed to pull it out just now. So I'll get back to cleaning.

Any ideas where to find a new screw and plunger?

All pics and few more here.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
parts found at wemoto, but damn it's expensive. this bike keeps costing me money and I haven't even ridden it yet, it better delivers when I get it going, and it better gets going fast :)
 
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