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Discussion Starter #1
On returning from our week trip my AT were behaving strangely. First sign was that the bike would not start ( Flat battery?) After some 200 km riding high beam headlight bulb blew.

Then when riding with my lights on the bike would start to shudder as if it does not get enough current to the fuel pump but when I switch the lights off no problem. Got to a bike shop in Namibia and he said my battery was shot. Well installed a new one and a new high beam bulb and on my way I was. After 500km of tar riding it started doing the same and both head lights was on at the low beam setting and on the high beam only one bulb were on ( Hell I was now confused!!!!:confused: ). Well this shuddering stopped again and I could use my lights while riding. Went on for two days and on our last day 400km from Pretoria my bike just went dead. Only very dimm ignition lights !!At the side of the road we stripped the side panels to find the battery was cooking hot and my ignition,fuel fuse has blown. Replaced the fuse and treid again but nothing. I was smelling a very sharp electrical smell.

My bike is fitted with an alarm device with a remote. I tried activating and deactivating but still dead. I opened the alarm box and saw the whole board was cooked. We tried to bypass the alarm system but everyting was still dead. The bike is in Botswana at the moment and I must go fetch it during this week.

Whats the chance the whole bike wiring harness and CDI is cooked?????:confused:
 

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Africrider

It sounds suspiciously like the regulator/rectifier to me, as the cooked alarm, blown bulbs, etc suggest over voltage.

I'm not sure where your best supplier of parts would be in your location, but as a last resort there are plenty of UK sellers that can supply a new rec/reg.

Good Luck


Bob
 

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I agree with Bob. Classic symptoms.
Weemoto stock replacement one's.
www.wemoto.com
 

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adventurer
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I had weird electrical problem yesterday.
First I noticed that tachometer needle started to jump up and down. I thought it’s the fuel pump again so I stopped on the road side to check it up. I noticed that my indicator light is blinking extremely fast. Then I turned ignition switch off and on – turn signals were OK but when I pushed the start button I heard a click and everything was dead. Checked all the fuses – they were OK. Then after 15 min power came on but when I pushed start button then again click and everything was dead. It repeated many times. I decided start the engine without start button – so I run and hopped on the bike. Engine started but the revs still jumped up and down. I thought that there must be a short circuit somewhere – but where?
First I decided to clean all the wirings because they were extremely dusty (left side) – I try to avoid tarmac. I unconnected all the plugs took them off the frame and reconnected. Turned the ignition on and pushed the start button and everything started OK like nothing had happened. I washed all the wirings with water and put everything back to its position.
So I don’t know what and where it happened.
Your problem – it can be regulator/rectifier or short circuit as well.
First I suggest to check all the connections, un- and reconnect them. Clean the dust. If that does not help you should contact with electrician. Bad connections are quite common problems in electricity.
Good Luck!

PS! Sorry for my bad English
And I also have AT '98
 

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Gotham

Your English is perfect, so no worries!

I think your problem is a bad earth (ground) to the frame, or battery.

It could also possibly be the connector or master fuse connections, on top of the starter solenoid.


Bob
 

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And yet another regulator/rectifier fails in a overvoltage situation and goes Chernobyl. Your playing russian roulette with this piece of shite reg/rectifier if you leave home on any type of extended trip without some sort of voltage monitor to alert you of the impending doom.

Their is really only 2 things that will seriously bite your arse on an Africa Twin and strand you. And they are ...

1. OEM fuel pump with contacts that burn out.
Fix. Replacing with a Facet or similar.

2. You already know.
Fix. Carry a spare reg/rectifier (put it in the box under your seat).

I would rather carry a spare reg/rectifier (and a functioning voltage monitor) than a spare battery, lamps, fuses, wire and who knows what else gets fried...
 

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21st Century Schizoid Man
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And yet another regulator/rectifier fails ...snip Fix. Carry a spare reg/rectifier (put it in the box under your seat).
...snip...
I wasn't aware that the rectifier is a known Achilles Heel on the AT? Is that so? :confused:
 

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I wasn't aware that the rectifier is a known Achilles Heel on the AT? Is that so? :confused:
Right up there with the fuel pump mate
 

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21st Century Schizoid Man
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Thanks Lootch and Robster; and erm, there isn't a special in the XRV shop like there is for the fuel pump I suppose..? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
okay here is the deal .

1.Removed and Tried to charge battery
Battery is dead and will get a new one.

2. My main fuse is not blown (according to AT knowledge this will blow first)

3. The only fuse that was blown was the 10amp one assigned to (Engine;fuel pump;ignition)
I have replaced this fuse.

4. I have fitted a 12v outlet direct from the battery a while back and saw the one the wires had arched between the seat and frame.
Totally removed from the bike.

5. Alarm box is burnt black.
Removed it from bike.


Is there a way to test the regulator/rectifier without connected to the bike? (I dont want to blow things up escpecially with a new battery fitted)
 

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Is there a way to test the regulator/rectifier without connected to the bike? (I dont want to blow things up escpecially with a new battery fitted)
Did you bring a new regulator/rectifier with you? You may want to chuck the old regulator/rectifier in the ditch now or you will risk cooking your 3rd straight battery. If you want you can check the old reg/rectifier for yourself with the bike running and measure the voltage at the battery. Typically if it exceeds around 15 volts or more it is overcharging and your reg/rectifier is bad. You can also do some resistance checks on the wiring associated with the reg/rectifier as per haynes pg. 9-33...their integrity may have been jepordized due to the light show under your seat.
You obviously had some accessory wires shorting out which you have sorted...and that's good. :p
Everything else points to an overvoltage condition.
 

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91 RD04

F**** -ing rectifier, so I rode 500 kms back from Le Mans on the highway no problems, exit onto a side road, after 20 kms gunning it up hill overtaking a row of traffic, all dash lights flicker and bike splutters, pull in, restart ride another 10 kms (thinking its fuel problem) splutters again, pull in, nothing….anyway after checking everything its confirmed as being the rectifier and ones on order…

So back at home I recharge the battery and notice its has no water in it (strange its only 2 weeks old, the last one had no water left so I replaced it to be sure) so I guess a sign of troubles could be your battery water level dropping = cooking / flattening the battery … anyway I charge the battery and tested if with the knackered rectifier I still have fully working lights etc, without starting the engine; straight away the 20 amp ignition fuses blows, replace it and again same happens….strange as I would expect only 12 v from the battery on the ignition circuit…(without engine running) so awaiting the new rectifier before damaging anything else…

I plan on a 6 week trip next year so really need to understand how the old girl works before hand…
 

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My rectifier died slowly over 200 miles to expire at exactly 100,000 mles. The alarm was also part of the problem so I took that off. I believe you can use a car rectifier but I never did it.
 

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91 RD04

F**** -ing rectifier, so I rode 500 kms back from Le Mans on the highway no problems, exit onto a side road, after 20 kms gunning it up hill overtaking a row of traffic, all dash lights flicker and bike splutters, pull in, restart ride another 10 kms (thinking its fuel problem) splutters again, pull in, nothing….anyway after checking everything its confirmed as being the rectifier and ones on order…

So back at home I recharge the battery and notice its has no water in it (strange its only 2 weeks old, the last one had no water left so I replaced it to be sure) so I guess a sign of troubles could be your battery water level dropping = cooking / flattening the battery … anyway I charge the battery and tested if with the knackered rectifier I still have fully working lights etc, without starting the engine; straight away the 20 amp ignition fuses blows, replace it and again same happens….strange as I would expect only 12 v from the battery on the ignition circuit…(without engine running) so awaiting the new rectifier before damaging anything else…

I plan on a 6 week trip next year so really need to understand how the old girl works before hand…
It was overcharging what cooked your battery and dried it out.
 

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Indeed and as the old battery had no water left I suspect its been happening for some time. I just wanted to make the point, if your battery water level drops “it could be a sign of over charging” and your rectifier is on its way out…

In the overland forums you read a lot of people having damaged batteries and then in turn electrical / rectifier problems …

I’ll be keeping an eye on the battery water level in future… something I never normally look at …

Salut Matt
 
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