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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2007 650 starting issue-not charging correctly

Hi all, hope someone may be able to throw some light on this...

I have bought a 650 TA 2007 with less than 15k in what appears very good condition.

It has been parked up in the garage over winter and not used by myself until the last week or so. It has been on a battery conditioner and started every few weeks through the winter.

Yesterday morning i went to start and the ignition lights were erratic and it turned over very slowly. I turned the ignition off switched the engine kill a few times and she started no problem.I did notice the lcd clock has reset to 1.00
A rode to the local fuel station, filled up and again it was hesitant to start but did so. I did around 100 miles starting and stopping around 5 times. each time i started she was fine. I checked the battery terminals and earth lead etc but all seem to be secure.

This morning I went to start up and had ignition lights but only got a slight turn from the starter motor. I turned it all off and on then it started fine.
once again the clock had reset to 1.00

Im booked to go to Spain end May so need to make sure the bike is reliable, or i may need a good European Breakdown policy ...!


On a completely different matter the bike had a strong smell of fuel once i had run the 100 miles, no obvious leaks but one of the breather pipes under the swingarm area was quite damp and i could see the vapours coming from it, any ideas where these pipes lead back to?

Many thanks

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Is there a way to upload videos from an iPhone to here as i have the bike and its various faults caught on camera...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've tried starting and running the bike today a few times. It has been very erratic from not turning over to running fine to not reving over 2000rpm.
once it felt only one cylinder was firing and the rev counter was not responding either.
i have also noticed the headlight flickers a lot when it ticks over and at low revs...

I did notice that on 2004 model on (this is 2007) that the kill switch still lets the bike turn over but kills cdi and coils. i tried it with the kill switch on stop and it turned over perfectly, i then switched it to run and it fired and ran nicely too.
Unfortunately i ran out of daylight to try this option further.

I did manage to record some of this behaviour but not sure how to upload to give a better idea of the issues.

Has anyone come across faulty killswitch/circuit problems before...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I checked the connections on the bike and found that the 2 DC accessory sockets had been wired into the feed for the front brake light switch.
This is on the same cluster going to the starter button and kill switch (RH handle bar side)

After disconnecting this wire and re-insulating the brake light feed wire the bike has started and run every time.Hoping this has cured the issue but not sure as it was an intermittent fault...
I have checked the circuit for the accessory sockets and it seems fine but dubious about where to wire it back into.

I will check the resting and running voltage later today..

I am off to Spain end of next month and keen to get the bike up to spec...!

Although the bike has only done 14K it looks like the last service was done at 11K which was in 2011 !!
i also think the carbs may need a balance as the idle is erratic..

Have ordered service items (filters, oil plugs) and a pair of Anakee3's ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
resting and running voltage is the same at around 12.4V.....

I do notice the lights and neutral indicator flicker a lot at ticker too
 

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running voltage should be about 14v at 4,000 rpm

if you are not getting that then your battery is not charging and you will have problems

see here for a guide for battery voltage with engine off

722_6.jpg

ideally any aux power things (heated grips, USB ports, GPS, heated clothing, extra lights etc) should be wired via a relay which only has power when the ignition is on

or get one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/INNOVV-Distribution-Motorcycle-Stabilizer-Accessories/dp/B076DK6VNW

but... if you want a 'quick fix' for the USB ports, just wire then directly to the battery and put a simple on/off switch in the live wire, just don't forget to turn it off when leaving the bike for a number of hours

eg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/In-Line-...-Core-Flex-Ideal-for-Table-Lamps/141196991495
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the reply

I have just swapped the voltage regulator from a mates 03 Transalp and the voltage is around 12.5/12.6v engine off, once the engine is running the voltage goes up slightly then around 2000rpm its around 13v around 4000 rpm it drops to about 12.6v again....?

I have tried this with both regulators and getting similar readings...........

Not sure what to try next.... Help!!
 

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Could be battery needs replacing - try getting it tested at a vehicle battery shop / get a new un.

Check connections to alternator for corrosion - look suspiciously at alternator. But I'd start first with battery... Once you know that's in tip top condition and if the problem persists then it'll be something else...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again for the replies..

I think the battery will be my first option as I'm out of ideas.......

Just a bit short of time as i have a ferry booked end of May and it will creep up quick.So typical the bike has been fine for the last few months since purchase, and now 4 weeks til departure problems arise..!

electrics aint my strong point either.
 

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i guess it can be any of the following

- wiring/connections
- battery worn out
- faulty regulator/rectifier
- faulty alternator/stator
- faulty coils/plugs (it doesn't sound like this is the issue)

or possibly a faulty CDI?
 

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Handy little tool for testing battery break down.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153321010611?ul_noapp=true

It is possible to perform most tests with just a voltmeter, bulb etc, but this lets you check battery health etc. but I thought I'd get one of these as my neighbour has a few old cars.

If a dealer will check your battery for free then great. You've already swapped your reg from a friend, will he let you do the same with the battery.... but then again, if your reg/rec is playing up, does he want you to bugger his battery.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the replies, I have tried the regulator from friends bike and no different.
He said I can take his battery and ecu to try.His battery is a week old Yuasa so should be good.
Does anyone know if the ecu’s are the same? His is an 03 mine is 07?
 

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the ECU's are the same, but.... you can't swap them between bikes as they are coded to the bike's HISS security system
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Had a feeling this may be the case... don't want 2 bikes not working...!


Well i have tried the Regulator

cleaned connections

tested alternator stator resistance (all similar readings and not shorting to earth)

tested wiring from regulator to main switch/battery

Tried a new Yuasa battery

i have good voltage at battery when stationary 12.9v (with ignition on and lights on)and good cranking voltage (11v+) once started on tick over its around 13v increases up to 2000rpm to around 13.4v then as the revs increase the voltage drops off to 12.7v (ish) even up to and over 5000rpm

we tried my mates bike before removing the battery and regulator and it easy went to 14v on tickover, we even tried this with his lights switched on to mimic my setup..

hate to think its the alternator as thats quite a job to do outside on the driveway! Are there any other tests for the alternator that could be done or any other ideas...?
 

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certainly sounds like the alternator/generator

it easy to take the left crankcase cover off and clean it and the inside etc

if bolt no 5 is loose would that cause a drop in output at higher revs? its worth checking

GENERATOR-Honda-MOTO-650-TRANSALP-2003-XL650V3-E__0900.jpg LEFT-CRANKCASE-COVER-Honda-MOTO-650-TRANSALP-2003-XL650V3-E__1000.jpg
 

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Check the stator to wiring harness connector for burning/corrosion (3 yellow wires in/out of a multiplug) it's near the cdi behind the lh sidepanel & inside the plastic/rubber sheath. While you are at it check the main fuse & multiplug on the starter relay mounted on the battery cover for corrosion ie remove, spray with wd40 connect/remove/spray/connect.

Phil

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
 
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