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Wing Commander
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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Brand new wiring loom from Mr Honda, with Mosfet Reg/Rec and still my 30 amp fuse completely destroyed and melted.

Suggestions for the cause please.

I can out a new fuse unit in and rewire it up but something must be causing it.
 

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Brand new wiring loom from Mr Honda, with Mosfet Reg/Rec and still my 30 amp fuse completely destroyed and melted.

Suggestions for the cause please.

I can out a new fuse unit in and rewire it up but something must be causing it.

Could it be anything to do with the million things you've got wired into the poor bike?

Usually, it's caused by the fuse overheating because of high resistance due to dirty or corroded contacts. In your case, it's probably because you found a novel way of wiring a 3kW fan heater onto the crash bars to keep your feet warm!!!

The 30amp fuse connector/cover used to be unavailable, but I found them here...

Africa twin 650 rd03 750 rd04 rd07 cover coperchio starter avvio motore carena | eBay


:thumbup:
 

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Wing Commander
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It has only happened once. Just dare not rewire it without finding the cause first.

I rode home. parked it garage, got it out and it was dead as a dodo. When I looked, the fuse had completely melted. It must have been while riding but the liquid was maintaining a connection and when idle, it solidified without a connection.
 

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Wing Commander
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bob, most appliances are via a relay and separate fusebox. The one dircet to the battery - the Starcom - was still working fine, so I knew the battery was still OK.
 

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Are you sure that it was actually a (green) 30amp fuse fitted?

Anything less, would have started cooking if it had been on the lower limit of it popping.
 

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Bob, most appliances are via a relay and separate fusebox. The one dircet to the battery - the Starcom - was still working fine, so I knew the battery was still OK.
So everything non-standard is wired to separate relays, that are fed from a separate fusebox, and they are all wired directly to the battery??

So the 30amp fuse is ONLY supplying the original Honda loom and nothing else??

:bom:
 

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It has only happened once. Just dare not rewire it without finding the cause first.

I rode home. parked it garage, got it out and it was dead as a dodo. When I looked, the fuse had completely melted. It must have been while riding but the liquid was maintaining a connection and when idle, it solidified without a connection.
That does not inspire confidence. As Bob says, poor connections can lead to some dramatic heating - but this would normally still need some serious current to be flowing.

Since you rode the bike home and parked up without any drama, I'm presuming that there wasn't a "hot" or "electrical" smell when you got off the bike.

Is there any other signs of heating on any of the other wiring?



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That does not inspire confidence. As Bob says, poor connections can lead to some dramatic heating - but this would normally still need some serious current to be flowing.

Since you rode the bike home and parked up without any drama, I'm presuming that there wasn't a "hot" or "electrical" smell when you got off the bike.

Is there any other signs of heating on any of the other wiring?

I had the same symptoms when my trusty old RD04 suffered from a melted 30amp connector.

Bike was running OK, then I stopped and switched it off, and it wouldn't restart. (of course it may have melted that day because I just spent 15 minutes watching Doctor Law eat a choc-ice in a rather seductive way!!!)


:toothy10:
 

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Wing Commander
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm going to look for any other melting.
 

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I'm going to look for any other melting.
That's it Lutin, now you've got him going. He'll be out there all day, bike parts all over the street, tools everywhere, constant demands to his poor suffering wife for fresh tea.......
 

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Which fuse is this? From the RR, or the main fuse in the original fuse box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It has started raining so my plans have been curtailed.

I could not find any other melted wire the other day and so replaced the fuse with a new fuse container and fuse. The bike started. I waited to see if anything blew or anything but it didn't. I put the seat back on a rode about 200 yards down the road before it stalled. It would start, then cough and not run. I pushed it back home.

I've looked again and there appears to be nothing loose or melted and the fuse is still in tact. The lights come on and the ignition works but nothing. It's as if the kill switch were flicked (it isn't).

This is the main 30 amp fuse.
 

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I've looked again and there appears to be nothing loose or melted and the fuse is still in tact. The lights come on and the ignition works but nothing. It's as if the kill switch were flicked (it isn't).

This is the main 30 amp fuse.
Hm okay, start pulling fuses then. Disconnect all farkles first, and then remove every fuse you don't need to get it started. If it still stalls or blows a fuse then my money is on the fuel cutoff relay. Also get a digital meter and start metering for voltage drops. Check this thread for some good links and tips: http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/africa-twin/84940-help-fuse-blowing-please.html
 

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happened on both my twins, 1= earth on starter not bolted-up tight enough. 2= something to do with the stebel LOUD air horn. just a thought.
 

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This is indeed puzzling. If you have a look at the following diagram (borrowed from elsewhere), you will see that the major current path bypasses the 30 Amp fuse -

Honda Power Solenoid Wiring.jpg

Why do I say this? Well, the current from the Reg/Rec is supplied by the Red/White wire and this is directly connected, internally to the solenoid, to the Red wire which is the Main Feed to the Ignition Switch and therefore the bike's electrical systems. In normal operation the Reg/Rec feeds the whole electrical system and charges the battery via the fuse. So with the bike running and everything working correctly the fuse should be only carrying a couple of amps to charge the battery.

With the bike NOT running, the whole electrical system is fed from the battery via the 30 Amp fuse - so there is the possibility of much higher currents through the fuse, for instance if you have the headlight, heated grips etc etc on.

The main current draw from the battery is, of course, the starter motor - and this circuit is NOT fused.

I'm tending to think along Bob's lines of corroded connections to the fuse.



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When I went to Skye for holiday parked bike at Dornie when I came to start it wouldnt. Traced it to broken wire on ignition switch when you turn lock to lock thats why it broke hope this helps.
 

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Just another point.

Lutin's excellent diagram also makes it very clear one of the main symptoms of the 30amp fuse/contacts failing. The bike is able to continue running, but will not re-start (with the starter motor) once the engine has been stopped. It will (and I have proven this in the past) re-start if you turn the headlamps off and bump start it though.

Nice diagram Lutin, many thanks



Bob :thumbup:
 
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