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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, just asking.... my alp developed a "clicking" which initialy i thought was transmission related but have now established it is front end as it dissapears on using front brake. Especially notable on slow cornering. i am about to take the front wheel off and inspect wheel bearings and will report back on solution hopefully. Has anyone had a similar issue?
 

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Hi...Mine done a tapping / click noise at low speed that increased with speed, that disappeared on applying front brake...It was a front brake pad lifting and tapping the caliper...it was getting lifted by a tiny burr on a disc hole caused by someone moving my bike while i had disc locks on...If it is that..look for a slightly raised " polished " area around each hole...I couldn't replicate by spinning the wheel while off the ground and it wasn't there or didn't notice at at higher speeds.
Do you use disc locks or padlocks on the discs ?? Unfortunately lots of holes with double sides and two discs to check...I only lock the right disc up...Fixed with a large drill and a bit of filing.....and then it happened again when i did it to myself at a later date...Hopefully that simple a fix for you too.....I try a weeny bit harder to remember the locks now.....
 

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...think you are on the right track. bearings.
 
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It's unlikely you'd hear the speedo drive as it's plastic. but worth checking 'just in case' as they're easy to sort (David Silver) and wear out quite regularly (some bikes more than others for some unknown reason).
 

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bike on centre stand, any play ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well it turned out to be the larger of the two wheel bearings. Once the wheel was off it was really "lumpy". Replaced both with dust seals no problem. However i also took off the top yoke and adjusted the steering head bearings. Once back together the steering lock wont work! Any ideas on this would be appreciated.
 

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only an idea, 'adjusted' meaning? cleaned/greased/tightened? know how the bearings shall be starting to be ####ed due to vibes etc, maybe you tightened on a high/low point of the bearings at a point that you just can't get that last few millimeter 'pull or push on the bars to engage the locking pin. ie you have pulled the stem upwards only a fraction, but enough for a slight misalignment of the locking pin & the hole. if so, cure...new bearings (have a heat gun, or a dremel thingy & angle grinder at the ready). slackening the nut as you tightened may lower the bar stem to your pre-service. if the lock works, change bearings. many many moons ago on a piece of crap, the bars froze !!! mid turn, quick wrestle & they freed up, wasn't nice. Change them anyway, bike will feel sweet & easy. tighten a bit, do some miles then check & final tighten. just an idea
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thats good advice foz. I think the bearings probably need replacing as they were notching when i had the wheel off. Just dont fancy tackling that after reading about it!!
 

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try them with a heat gun 1st. you may be lucky. otherwise, an angle grinder will get most pretty easy, swap to a cutting disk, you may have an inaccessible slither. a sharp screwdriver & hammer should crack & pop the remaining off. the bottom bearing is interference fit, so freezer & heat should help fitting new without damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Foz as it turns out.... i had tightened the top stansion clamps and then the centre nut. I then did it the other way round and realise the top yoke sits a mm or two lower than flush and hey presto the lock works!
 
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