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Discussion Starter #1
I have taken my @ in as the tickover was between 0 revs and 2000 it depended on how it felt and ment that coming up to lights etc you either have to rev it or it was revving at 2000rpm which is no good. The other help to guess the problem is the plugs were black as the ace of spades and it ended up fouling one of the plugs and thanks to FOZ1969 who helped get it running on two cylinders again
I have taken it to a place called Mototec in Burnley and the game is to guess the price and hopefully what was wrong lol.

My guess is £75

I will let you know my recommendation on the garage and the price it costs to get it idling correctly

My fingers and toes are crossed
 

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BLUE 1999 xrv750x
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my money is on a sticking choke...
 

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I concur, it is the Chokes.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Sticky choke definitely, classic symptoms. Seat off,tank off, airbox off (if you want more room), and the delicate operation of removing plastic choke bodies made brittle by heat and age. Bit of cleaning then reassembly.
 

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geriatric
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Choke, either cable or choke bodies or both.
£245
 

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my money is on a sticking choke...


I disagree...try pulling on your choke lever when your engine is warm, it usually causes the engine to splutter and/or stop, not increase revs. So I don't reckon it will be a sticking choke plunger. Also a stuck choke plunger is usually allied with poor running throughout the rev range, or poor mpg, or smoke from the exhaust, or all three.

I reckon it is sticking throttle cable, intake leak, or fuel problem, mabe even sticking carb slide., or split diaphragm...ooer missus.

If you let the shop take off the tank to diagnose, I reckon there won't be much change from 200 quid labour alone.
 

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My AT didn't like to idle properly and often when releasing the throttle it'd settle at around 2000rpm then slowly drop to idle speed.. it also had a slight random misfire.

I've recently changed all 4 plugs, air filter, fuel filter, oil and oil filter and lubed all the throttle cables and linkages on the carbs.

It now idles fine... (it wasn't a sticky throttle by the way) and runs beautifully!

The bike also had the stuck chokes when I first bought it and as such wouldn't run properly with similar symptoms, as previously said, the chokes were stuck, took the carbs apart, a good clean, bit of wet and dry and a good lubing sorted all that out.

It also had stiff/jammed throttle cables which ALSO had the same symptoms! I took the throttle assembly apart and removed that crappy piece of white plastic and lubed the cables up.. again problem solved.

So yeah, try all of the above and you'll more than likely fix it! At the very least its all general maintenance stuff that wants to be done regular anyways...
 

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If you let the shop take off the tank to diagnose, I reckon there won't be much change from 200 quid labour alone.
Seriously?

I'm no pro, but I can get my AT from fully built to rocker cover off in about 5 minutes at the side of the road with basic tools.. let alone in my garage with proper tools etc.. am I in the wrong trade? :D

Got it down to a tee now :rolleyes:.... air box cover off, on the floor as bolt holder so nothing gets lost :D 4 bolts holding front plastics on, screw for the fuel tap, disconnect hoses, seat off, 2 bolts, pull tank up and back to lift out.. voila... think I've done it a few to many times now :happy6::teeth:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I disagree...try pulling on your choke lever when your engine is warm, it usually causes the engine to splutter and/or stop, not increase revs. So I don't reckon it will be a sticking choke plunger. Also a stuck choke plunger is usually allied with poor running throughout the rev range, or poor mpg, or smoke from the exhaust, or all three.

I reckon it is sticking throttle cable, intake leak, or fuel problem, mabe even sticking carb slide., or split diaphragm...ooer missus.

If you let the shop take off the tank to diagnose, I reckon there won't be much change from 200 quid labour alone.
I dont know yet whats is wrong but I go along with you as it runs to the red line with no missing and when you go on the overun there is no popping or banging so I did tell the mechanic about the choke just incase he struggles, I talked to him and he did seem quite knowledgeable. One garage said I needed carbs balancing this mechanic said it didnt and seemed confident he could get it right, time will tell I miss my @ lol
Hope I get it back tomorrow will post as soon as I know and thx to all who gave a responce
 

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I disagree...try pulling on your choke lever when your engine is warm, it usually causes the engine to splutter and/or stop, not increase revs.
Not necessarily. While I do agree that pulling the choke will cause the engine to splutter it is often counteracted by increasing the idling speed thereby further muddling the waters. Yes, it is the voice of experience speaking :D

My first point of call would still be the choke assembly, but checking all the other points you and the others listed is definitely worth doing.
 

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Premium Member
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Obviously, there are two chokes for the two carbs. If one choke got stuck or partially stuck that's enough to make the bike run crap. The action at the choke lever is no indication of where either choke plunger is unfortunately!

I'd still say it's the choke, but my guess is the mechanic might say differently to warrant what he's going to charge you.


Hope you get it sorted for a fair price.



Bob :thumbup:
 

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If it,s only one spark plug fouled up I reckon it could be the diaphram starving one cylinder of fuel and flooding the other at low revs.
And a sticky throttle ,be it pinched or just catching .
We'll just have to wait and see what the mechainic says he' has found:(
 

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big member
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not had my AT long and mine was ticking over was all over the place , i followed the instructions on the forum unstuck my choke thingies and she purrs like an angel.:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks all who participated in my guessing game and hope it helps other people who have a problem like mine.


As most of you guessed it was one choke seized solid and the cable was no good either

The mechanic fitted a manual choke fitment and did a MOT total cost £100
I will post pics soon and let me know your verdict I am well pleased as it ticks over great now :grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin: first time since getting the bike

Next time I have a problem I will look to all who got it right lol only kidding I enjoyed reading my thread and all the different answers.

With a little bit more knowledge I could have done this job myself but I did think something was wrong with the carbs and not the choke
 
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