Honda XRV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, this weekend I finally plucked up the courage and started the resto of my bike. My first resto ever. Scary. I am a reasonably competent wrencher with a reasonable set of tools accumulated over the years, and I pretty much "google for living" (work in IT), so hey.. let's take a challenge.

I bought the '01 RD07a from a colleague at work, running sweet as a nut, but in a pretty poor cosmetic state. The salt on Scottish roads didn't do it any favours, and the PO was not really a meticulous maintainer, as I've found out when I disassembled things. He did have a particular penchant for waxoyl, though :) No matter. I would have still bought it. I wanted the AT since I was a boy and now I am trying to save one from the scrap. It looked a bit like this when I got it.

164807


Few issues, but the engine and countershaft pretty good, the plastics were almost perfect and wheels were already sorted. Always knew it needed stripped and restored.

Well, so, after 3 days of going at it on my own and in a small garage, the frame is out and most things are in boxes. It will take months to put back together! :)

164808

Mostly surface rust although a bit of an issue at the rear end I'd like to address. I'll try to find someone to sandblast it and then decide whether to go for powder or 2K.

All other bits are in bags and boxes, so no point taking pictures. Mostly ok, although the radiators are not that great really. They hold water, the bike was running sweet, but they are pretty rough with corrosion everywhere.

Thankfully, nothing broke and needed drilled out, so I am pretty happy with that. windy gun really helped on a couple of bolts, but nothing broke. Excellent.
I managed to get the frame away from the engine without taking the oil cooler off, so I only dropped the coolant but left the oil in the engine. I like that. I am not sure how long will the frame finishing take, with CoVid lockdown, so prefer to keep the oil in.

So... few questions for you seasoned restorers:
- Head bearings - out or in before powdercoating (if I go for that) ?

- I am trying to do as little as possible to the carbs as I would rather not fettle with them so what do I need to do to store them until they are needed (most of the fuel seems to have dripped out of the tubes when I took them off.

- The bottom of the airbox - the two rubber ports were fixed to the box with some material that disintegrated. Should I just use silicone sealant there? Is it really needed?

- I am trying to work out how to best degrease the engine. I took a karcher and degreaser to the frame, su too scared to do that to the engine. How do you guys do it?

- What should I do to the engine while it is out? Valve clearance check? Any bearings/seals that I should go at?

- I took you lot's advice about not worrying so much about bolts as they will go for plating... man will I have a job on my hands when they come back!! :)

- Anything else I would find helpful?

Thanks!
 

Registered
Joined
13 Posts
I'll enjoy watching your progress as I hopefully make my own 馃憤 keep the pics coming! Your bike looks like an awesome starting point.
Have fun with the resto mate.
 

Registered
Joined
231 Posts
Your bike's in better condition than my 2001 RD07a. Mine was rusted at backend too. I went down the powdercoat route on the frame.
I always seal off steering bearing races with washers and piece of threaded rod - not had a problems in half a dozen restos. If they need changing
I'd do the hammering before powdercoating just in case. I have lots of photos from my resto so just ask if you get stuck.
I'd not go near the engine with water. I know there's a hazard but I've always got the worst off with a scraper then stale petrol. You'll need a wash with soemthing
like acetone before spraying to remove residue.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Wow. That is a beaut, TS. Love it. I think that is my template to aspire to now. It will take a heck of a lot of work to get mine to that level, that's for sure. Did you anodise the bashplate and the peg carriers? They look really nice.

The back little round supports between the box-sections of the frame where the luggage plate mounts are pretty rusted on mine. That is the worst area. I am considering getting a bit of a reinforcement welded in there to tidy it up. Otherwise, it is ok, mainly surface rust.

Thank you for the info and advice and particularly the kind offer of help with images. I am sure it will come to that at some point. I took a lot of pictures, but with really greasy hands in a dingy garage with my phone... they are not exactly as good as I hoped. I am relying heavily on the awesome photo library Cookie did a while ago. I d/loaded that a couple of years back as I was accumulating the courage. Well that and my Haynes and service manual. Putting the wiring loom back in is going to be the worst, I am sure. Oh and figuring out which bolt goes where too. :) I really like the plated bolts on your one, though. It is really a good idea. I found someone locally(ish) who can do them for me so will go for that too. Need to collect everything first. I put things in separate bags as I was disassembling, and would like to get a few more brackets and cable stays off the engine. Pity my local plater does not do the grey-green Honda passivate, so it will be bright Zinc, I think, but that looks pretty cool on your bike...
 

Registered
Joined
231 Posts
Bashplate was done with wire wool of descending grades then metal polish and elbow grease. Front footrest hangers were powdercoated, pillion pegs as bash plates (Photo of left side added)
Let the forum know the mileage on your bike and then you'll get more informed responses. Take doing oil and filter change and valve check as a given.
Is Cookie the German chap who dismantled an AT in his lounge? If not you're missing 453 photos :)
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks TS. It has just done 45000 miles when I and my toolkit happened to it. :)

I am in two minds about the engine. Whether to have a go at painting it whole or just leave most of it as it is and swap the engine covers. I have a knackered (seized) spare engine that I could take the covers off, get them blasted and painted and swap them over... dunno. Just thinking through the options. If I do that, I may do the clutch too. It doesn't really need it as it is not slipping, but I am thinking of getting the consumables done...

And yes, that's Cookie's pictures library. It is massive. I did not know that he did it in his livingroom! Explains why the pictures were so good. :)

Oh yes, the oil is left in there until I figure out when I can get the frame/stuff coated and bolts plated. It will of course get the oil/filter. I'll get that when I am ready to tidy up the oil cooler / casings.

And the alloy polishing I get, but how do you keep it looking like that, though?
 

Registered
Joined
231 Posts
I've not touched the alloy sumpguard in two years and still looks good. It got plenty of polish then ACF50. Use it on all my bikes liberally.
If you have spare engine covers then they can be easily prepped using vapour blasting/light sand blasting to clean out HONDA logo. If not
I used a combo of wet n dry and wire wool. Final clean with acetone.

Thought you might appreciate some tips on finishing none powder coated parts (silver and black). These were spray painted on warm dry days
using the selection of cans in the photos from eBay:
Photo 1: Brake caliper paint - you can work that one out; Alloy Silver - rear rack, fork legs; Alloy gold - handlebars; Alloy lacquer - lavish loads on previous two
Photo 2: Bumper black - underseat unit, number plate holder, indicators (although I have used a light coat of Acrylic Black Gloss on poor plastics in past with great results);
Etch primer - bare/corroded alloy parts, generator/clutch cover; fork legs; Silver engine enamel - engine
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Excellent! That is exactly what I needed mate! Thank you so much. It will make the process so much easier. I will order these exact same products and get on with it.

That bashplate of yours looks just the right side of "not shiny". That may take me a long time to get right. I can easily wet&dry to get a few minor scratches out and then polish it, but I really don't like shiny on the AT. Your looks just right. I'll give it a test on an area on the inner side first methinks.

Thanks again TS.
 

Registered
Joined
231 Posts
Totally agree that shiny doesn't cut it on the bashplate. File off any gouges/war wounds. Again Wire wool (course, medium, fine - pack on eBay) is your friend and use polish with the fine if required. Always go in ONE direction like it was with grain on wood to avoid crosses and scratches. I dismantled mine into three sections before clean up then replaced bolts with stainless buttons.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Again, excellent advice, thank you so much for taking the trouble to talk me through this. Much appreciated. If this isolation ever ends, you have a pint or two owed to you in sunny Embra. :)
 

Registered
Joined
231 Posts
I may be heading north if the lockdown allows. Had planned to leave on trip to Slovenia next month but Scotland is back-up plan.
Happy to help with advice that I picked up doing mine. That said part of the pleasure is working things out - like I learnt how to re spoke wheels.
Look forward to future updates
 

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Awesome. If you do end up in Edinburgh and the pubs are open, there's a pint with your name on it. I will be posting updates soon. Meant to be working from home, so will be shopping on ebay for the paint tins and phoning around for powdercoaters in-between meetings...
Thanks mate.
 

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Great, just my luck... can't find that alloy wheel paint anywhere :( The order I placed got cancelled, problem with supply. Bummer. I'll have to think of something else [that is not Hamerite Smooth Silver :) ] now. :(
 

Registered
Joined
31 Posts
Great to read your detailed post mate.. Reminds me of when I purchased mine ( RDO7 MY 95) in a pretty bad condition and went from below your grade bike to a near cool condition.. No real rust on mine ( Swiss Bike) but I did paint a few items including the fuel reservoir with brand new stickers. replaced all rusted bolts with brand new OE ones and polished the underside plates. Look up the original parts and change anything that is beyond repair with OE parts to keep the bike immaculate..
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thank you. Great looking bike you have there. Not so much chance of rust now that it lives in Lebanon, is there? :)
 

Registered
Joined
31 Posts
Thank you. Great looking bike you have there. Not so much chance of rust now that it lives in Lebanon, is there? :)
She is a garage Queen now and enjoying the well deserved rest .. Used only for fun or around town rides in summer.. so no chances :cool:
 

Registered
Joined
231 Posts
Great, just my luck... can't find that alloy wheel paint anywhere :( The order I placed got cancelled, problem with supply. Bummer. I'll have to think of something else [that is not Hamerite Smooth Silver :) ] now. :(
There are lots of adverts on eBay for that Silver Alloy paint. Maybe contact a few of the Sellers to check stock before buying?
"2 x E-TECH Car Alloy Wheel Spray Paint Metallic Silver Can Chip Resistant 400ml "拢11.99"
This paint is nothing like Hammerite Smooth silver - that's a PITA to use. The E-tech covers so well and dries to a uniform colour even when slightly oversprayed.
Goes on plastic just as good too so you can match all parts of the bike.
 

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks TS. Saw those. Unfortunately, those sellers seem to have really poor feedback recently. As in "Shown dispatched then cancelled 2 weeks later and refunded with no explanation" which leads me to believe that they don't actually have any stock. Pretty much every other distributor is out of E-Tech paint this week. More stock expected next week. No matter. I have plenty prep to get on with until e-tech stock stabilises.
That Granville engine enamel doesn't exist any more. Probably stopped making them and Simoniz is also out of stock... So far, I got primer and calliper paint. more than enough to get on with while waiting for the powdercoaters.
 

Registered
Joined
231 Posts
OK if you get stuck on the E-Tech I have spare can I can send you. I must have the UK stock !!
Also other forum members have used alternative engine coating so check out a few build threads - I recall one from Ireland being inspirational and
good guide to getting engine in and out of frame.
 

Registered
Joined
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
You are a purveyor of finest AT resto knowledge AND alloy wheel paints. :) Thanks for the very kind offer mate. I am hoping it is all going to settle next week and there will be paint available to be bought. I am thinking one can should do 2 coats on forks and rear carrier? [Plus 2 coats of lacquer] BTW, is it wet-on-wet or do you have to wait for the basecoat to dry before applying lacquer? Thanks.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top