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Waster
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 alp and recently changed the rear disc and pads. I gave the chain a tweak as well as a bit slack. All went back in order it came off. Since then back of bike seems to start vibing badly after about 10 miles and chain needing tightening every week?! Turn it off and fine again until hit the 10 mile mark. Have worked through other bar vibes and stuff but can't seem to suss this one :confused:. Wouldn't mind too much but this is work bike and sees about 10,000 miles a year and can't have my fat arris bouncing around all year...might tone it though hmm......:thumbup:

Any help much appreciated folks.
 

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I'd hazard a guess and say chain too tight, causing vibes and stress stretching it?
Chain has to be set with weight on the bike, otherwise will tighten when you sit on it. Hope there's no damage to output shaft bearing, check tension and all will be well. Did it once on an @T, many yrs ago! :thumbup:
 

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I gave the chain a tweak .
with jim on this one ..

tight chain ( hopefully as its a simple fix.. unless it has lead to mischief??)

check at a few points...


a slack chain is better than a tight one..

How are you lubing it?

ran out of chain lube once on a real long wet trip and chain was well stuffed and causing vibs.. as it had worn the sprockets too ( you should replace chain & sprockets as a set ).
 

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Wot the others say chain is too tight.
 

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Premium Member
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Generally, if the chains looks slack, it's probably OK!!

As all the others have said, slacken the chain off and start again, before you find the gearbox shaft is stripped and you're facing the cost of an engine rebuild! It won't take many miles with an overtight chain to wreck the output shaft.


:thumbup:
 

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hedgerow specialist...
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yeh agree with the above,
and also these chain very rarely need adjusting maybe once when new and more when there knackered, the salt this winter is taking its toll even with the water wash downs,

God I love these full time bikers:nike::lol:
 

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geriatric
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How did you adjust the chain in the first place?
The chain must be adjusted with no weight on the bike just the weight of the bike itself against the suspension.You can check if it's too tight with someone sitting on it, don't adjust it with them on.
The way I do it is to stand the bike up so it is leaning against a wall (you could get someone to hold it up for you) in gear and rolled backwards so the chain is taught at the top and slack at the bottom, I then undo the rear nut on the spindle and then I adjust the chain so it has the correct slackness (I allow about 40mm in the middle area between frame and rear sprocket), check the adjustment markers on both sides are at exactly the same amount and redo the nut on the spindle and check the locking nuts are tight. Job done, how have you been doing it?
 

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On my Vigor I put the bike on the paddock stand, rotate the wheel to find the tight spot in the chain (if there is one) then I just adjust it to the slack as per the handbook. Look for a tightspot in your chain and adjust it there. Good luck
 

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geriatric
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When the bike is in motion somebody has to be sitting on it dont they?
That's what the 40mm slack is for, the movement of the swingarm upwards increases it's end length from the front sprocket and takes up the slack. I've never heard of adjusting a chain with someone sat on it.
There's even a sticker put on the side of the swing arm that shows a picture of what to do (the amount of slack etc) and in the owners manual. It can be done on the side stand but is awkward. If you do it on a paddock stand or a centre stand the swing arm drops too much and the chain will be bow string tight when back on the wheels.
 

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geriatric
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On my Vigor I put the bike on the paddock stand, rotate the wheel to find the tight spot in the chain (if there is one) then I just adjust it to the slack as per the handbook. Look for a tightspot in your chain and adjust it there. Good luck
if you have a tight spot in your chain I would be looking to change it..........or look for another problem
 

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A tight spot in a chain is not unusual and all manuals tell you to look for it if one is there. Also putting a bike on a paddock stand is no different than having it on the deck. The weight of the bike is just supported on the swinging arm and not the wheel. I do agree that on a centre stand that the swinging arm will be at the extent of its movement but manufacturers take this into account which is why there is no 'one size fits all' for chain adjustment. The comment elsewhere about a slack chain being better than a tight one holds good, also a tight chain saps power something chronic as well as wrecking the output bearing.
 

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I disagree with some of what's being said here.

Yes, it shows the amount of play on the swingarm on a new Honda but it's a grey area how to set that. A lot of dealers give you back the bike after a service with the chain too tight due to this very problem.
A paddock stand fastened under the swingarm is taking the weight of the bike on the rear and would be correct for setting at 35 to 45mm.
On a side stand this takes weight off the swing arm and gives a bad measurement.
Ok, my name's not Mr Honda and I'm not a Honda dealer, but I have had decades of experience riding Honda motorcycles and when asked for advice I give it freely on this forum, although I can not be held responsible for any issues regarding information I have given.
I prefer to have the bike standing upright after checking for tight spots, set the play in the centre of the chain to 40mm, then ask someone to sit on the bike to ensure it has plenty of play, remember when loaded and you hit a pothole you will need that bit of play.
Chains do get tight spots and as long as you can't lift the chain off the teeth of the back sprocket it'll be fine, plenty of lube, good amount of play, and give it a run.
I don't mean to get heavy but if this post saves an output shaft from the gearbox for someone I'll have achieved my goal!
 

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I agree with Jim and BTbloke 40mm standing on the ground does it for me. And when I sit on it there is still enough play and I am of the rotund persuasion. Why cant the dealers get it right, always comes back with the chain like a guitar string:rolleyes: fat-mal
 

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Waster
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks everyone for advice, no solution yet as the missus had the cheek to go off for the weekend with her sister leaving me with 2 impatient ankle biters who only have an interest in the bike when their sitting on it:confused:
Work in progress so i'll let you know the results on thursday when off work for the day :thumbright::thumbright:

My 2 year old boy did suggest "honking the horn" as a solution....
 

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Waster
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks everyone for advice, particularly on chain adjustment, learnt several tips for future arsing about!:thumbup: After much swearing, chain picking apart and bad light nearly stopping play on several occaisions discovered new chain and sprockets were needed. Fitted and behaving itself so far.
 

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I have a 2001 alp and recently changed the rear disc and pads. I gave the chain a tweak as well as a bit slack. All went back in order it came off. Since then back of bike seems to start vibing badly after about 10 miles and chain needing tightening every week?! Turn it off and fine again until hit the 10 mile mark. Have worked through other bar vibes and stuff but can't seem to suss this one :confused:. Wouldn't mind too much but this is work bike and sees about 10,000 miles a year and can't have my fat arris bouncing around all year...might tone it though hmm......:thumbup:

Any help much appreciated folks.
Have you sorted this problem?

Any advice as i am just about to change the rear brake disk/pads and do the chain and sprockets...

Thanks
 

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Waster
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Discussion Starter #19
Hi David,

Sorry for late reply. Needed new chain and sprockets and vibration went leaving my arse nice and comfy again (plus bought an airhawk seat too, highly, highly recommended if you eat up the miles)

Centre stand is one piece of advice as it just makes everything so much easier. But best advice is to follow what has been said on the thread. I found it really useful to adjust the chain and then put the weight of a friend on (preferably one similar in stature) and readjsut if necessary. Hadn't done this before and was a big help. Also if the rear end starts vibing badly then check it quicker than i did and you might save yourself a few bob!!

Good luck
 

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Waster
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Ruddy machine. Been ok for a couple of weeks(apprx 600 miles) but riding home today and handlebars and footpegs now started to vibrate?! Have checked other threads and noticed about carb sync problems? Can i do this myself? if so any help on doing this or any other thoughts? It's def not the bar weights or positioning as i've checked these and all fine.

Ta :(
 
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