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As part of my rebuild I am overhauling the choke plungers, Honda now want a staggering £62 each for the kit of plungers, springs etc. I managed to get the plastic threaded parts out OK however the springs were badly corroded and one was broken and very weak. Sticky chokes are a common problem and the plunger return springs are the only thing that ensures the plungers are properly seated in the carb body, the cable splitter means the push action of the cable does not transfer to the plungers. The springs cannot be bought separately from Honda.

There was loads of research done years ago here http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/africa-twin/13483-interest-getting-cheap-er-choke-plunger-springs.html

The main issue with the spring supplier is that they have a minimum order plus delivery which makes individual purchases prohibitive. I discovered that the spring identified in the earlier research is also used in Numatic vacuum cleaners and can be bought for 60p each plus postage.

Thought I would chance it and bought half a dozen.

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Here is a picture of the result. Internal and external dimensions (and therefore wire diameter) are virtually identical. The spring is a little too long which could restrict choke operation and also make it (even) more difficult to install the plastic nut. I decided to cut a couple of coils off the end and try it. The cut end of the spring fits the plunger tightly and doesn't seem to be an issue.

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With the spring installed there is around four mm of extra length over and above the hole depth in the carb body so should be sufficient preload once the nut is installed to ensure a good closed fit. With the cable attached the plunger operates as expected i.e. it can be fully retracted.
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Here its all ready to re assemble. I found an old spanner bent the head and filed it to fit the 10mm nut, should make fitting and removal easier.

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With both cables attached ready to fit. Lots of AT owners struggle removing and fitting these, I know I did, having taken them off a few times now I find the following method easiest. Detach the cable at the lever (handlebar) to give yourself free play in the cable, slide the rubber elbow boot back then unscrew the plastic piece. Fitting in the reverse order. The little bent spanner worked well as do bent nose pliers. Once reassembled it all feels OK I left a couple of mm of slack at the lever. Without x-ray specs you cant really see what is going on with the plungers, I did use a mechanics stethoscope to have a listen while operating the lever and it sounds like both plungers are moving freely and returning OK.

DSC03890.jpg

Here is the little spanner in action;)

I reckon these springs are a good inexpensive fix for a fairly common problem. With winter on the way may your plungers have many happy returns:thumbright:
 

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My choke is probably permanently on, which is nice ;)

It'd be nice to have the choice though - thanks for the info mate :)
 

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Thanks for info.
I brought a set of NTV carbs for £5 (as the chokes appear to be the same on NTV's) at a jumble just for the choke mechanism but have not had to use them yet.
 

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Rugged roads do a set of aluminium 'nuts' to replace the shoddy plastic honda items - I've got some but not fitted them yet as I cant be bothered untill I pull the tank off to fit new air-box to carb rubbers, but I've not bought them yet so it may be some time.......... Anyway, the new nuts from RR are great and shoud be well worth it I reckon...........
 
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I updated that only thread (linked above).

Summary: use those new springs, don't bother to cut them, buy the metal nuts from Rugged Roads, and accept you'll be fixing this continually. Or disable the choke if you can live without it.

BTW the best thing I did to make my bike start in cold weather wasn't to get the choke working (it is disabled now). It was to buy a decent battery and also to eliminate the connector block between the generator and regulator/rectifier (cut and soldered the wires). Having a well charged battery that gives a good spark even when really cold seems to be all I really need...
 

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Mine starts everytime, even when its freezing and my chokes are disabled.
 

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Icenian

I am in 2 minds on this at the moment, with my RD04 in bits in the garage - the Rugged Roads metal bits, from memory, dont fit RD04s - my default fix was to get the D11480s and put them in, in the hope it cures the issues i have been encountering (bike had been lying 4 years or so - got it started on full choke, but when choke switched off or throttle opened, it just dies)

Your thoughts on disabling the choke completely might be an option - the bike lives in a garage so doubtful the choke function will be critical in the future....

Or could my issue by fuel filter and pump? I love puzzles....... :clown:
 

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Thanks to this thread my bike is finally sorted of it's odd fueling issue. I've had it a couple of years and it intermittently gave trouble with surging and random idle speeds, hanging, all sorts of problems, I got it to a point where I could live with it but it still bothered me as it was only getting 40mpg (although i mostly do short trips in town) and it had a black sooty exhaust and smelled of unburnt petrol sometimes. I had the chokes out before and cleaned and checked them and i thought they were ok but what i didn't notice was that there were odd springs on the plungers so I replaced them with the henry springs, lubed the cables again, re-balanced and set the idle and FINALLY she's running great now. Doesn't need choke anymore to start from cold, much more responsive, revs better and is smoother. Be interesting to see the new MPG now.
 

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I'm restoring an old Transalp and I've encountered broken choke springs and seized choke cable.

New cable was £10 from Ebay.

I bought the springs listed on this thread (Many thanks to the OP). They're still available here. I'm just hoping they're the same as the AT.

https://www.discountedcleaningsupplies.co.uk/compression-spring-ref-d11480-numatic-219530-num-219530


Yes you can disable the choke. The XL650 runs VERY rich from stock. Many people make it leaner. I've just fitted 128 main jets to this one. Originals are 132.
 

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Thanks to this thread I've just solved my sticky choke problem! the springs are indeed still available, thanks for the link Mototed!
the springs on my TA600 were completely rusted away and the cable seemed stuck. so I fitted the cut to size springs and oiled up the cables: problem solved!
 
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