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Calling all TA600 owners who've ever had an electrical fault!!

2K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  rlkat 
#1 ·
This is the desperate posting of a man clutching at proverbial straws.

My faulty battery running problem that was fixed by buying a new battery, seems to be back. So it's either:

1. not the battery
or
2. the new battery is knackered
or
3. its something else as well

The bike is still cutting out for half a second or so now and then. It was fine for the first day that the new battery was in situ, then started again. It had always been intermittent so perhaps this was just coincidence :rolleyes:.

So, has anyone had any problems with the following parts and what were the symptoms?

  1. faulty clutch switch
  2. faulty kill switch
  3. fautly sidestand switch
Someone suggested these and I want to see of they could be at fault.

6 days till my ferry to Germany and then onto France. Not impressed...

Actually, plain gutted if I'm honest... :(
 
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#2 ·
I would suspect:
1. Loose connector on loom.
2. Frayed wire shorting out on bike somewhere.
3. Loose or dirty earth connection on frame.
 
#3 ·
Horrible!!:sad5:

I have 5 days to get this sorted and that looks like it would take as many weeks!!

I have already taken apart and silicon greased all connectors that I could reach with the fairing and tank off: that was most of them: they all looked fine. That included the earths.

Frayed wires? Could be, but where do they wear?!? That would be a tough one.:confused::confused::confused:

The final mystery is why now?
No problems with running in the 1600 miles since I bought it, but onew week in the garage and one dead battery and now it's spitting out the dummy....
 
#4 ·
Check where the seat touches the frame for trapped wires plus a favourite spot is where the loom is stressed by the steering.
 
#5 ·
Good point on the steering!!
 
#6 ·
    1. faulty clutch switch
    2. faulty kill switch
    3. fautly sidestand switch
how about making up a connector to by-pass each of these in turn and see if it makes a difference......

Depends how intermittent it is of course but they could be useful in the event of complete power loss. i.e. When the intermittent fault becomes constant.

I take it you've already pulled the switches about whilst the engine is running?

Sorry if I'm repeating anything already mentioned ( tired )

Good luck.
 
#7 ·
I take it you've already pulled the switches about whilst the engine is running?
What is puzzling is that I rode down a very rutted dirt track earlier in the day and nothing, unless, I could not feel it over the bounciness of the ride (TA took it in its stride BTW).

Later, on the way home in town, on far smoother surfaces, it was playing up: surely, a loose connector would have played up more on the bouncy track.

I did test a couple of things:I wiggled the clutch switch wires and thumped the kill switch housing: nothing!!

The only one that I have found that can affect the engine whilst running is the sidestand.

I started the bike on centrestand, flipped up the sidestand, put it in gear, and then wiggled the sidestand vigorously, and pocked the switch and wires a bit:
it made the engine cut out momentarily a couple of times, but needing far more movement in the stand than normal road riding would cause...
 
#9 · (Edited)
When you say that the engine is cutting out for a second, does it actually stop?
If not, I'm thinking CDI problem here...I've had that....kept running but rough and down on power.

See if you can keep an eye on the tacho when it happens as one of the CDI's works it and you'll see it drop momentarily...if not swap the CDI's over and if one is faulty it should show.

When it happened on mine and I saw the tacho drop I waggled the wires and connectors on the CDI and reproduced the fault which was one of the cylinders cutting out intermittently.

I bodged it by wedging matches in it until the new one arrived.

I think we've given you enough to be going on with.

Good luck again...makes the stress worse with an impending trip.
 
#10 ·
Hi Warthog the kill switch failed twice on my 600vj Replaced with new part twice.I never used the kill switch in the 13 years i owned the bike.Does your bike have the cdi units with the wires exiting upwards or were they moved through 45 degrees to exit to the side ? The original fitting allowed the underside of the seat to sag downwards and put pressure on the wires leading to the failure of the cdi unit,This happened to my bike and i had to buy a new cdi .The bike would cut out on one cylinder when riding along,Stop bike leave engine running in neutral get off and the off cylinder would kick in again,As Cabby has pointed out the rev counter feeds off one of the cdi units , Both are the same so swap them around and take the bike for a run watch the rev counter as soon as it starts to miss and if the rev counter stops working then you know for sure it is the cdi unit.Someone on another forum took the cdi unit apart and resoldered the joints and it worked for him.Francis
 
#12 ·
It was the sidestand switch!!

Can you believe it?!?
The bike has no problems running, then sits in a garage for a week at mild temperatures but when I ride it next, it runs like pants only to find that not only the battery but the sidestand switch have both thrown a wobbly.

What are the odds of that?.....:confused:



The new battery was last week's crisis...
 
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