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Discussion Starter #1
Right... now that I have your attention:D:D, I have a little problem... with my rear brake, in that no matter what I do to try to bleed the system I can't get any pressure on the pedal....:confused:

I've tried the conventional method of attaching a clear tube to the nipple, and putting the other end of the tube in a bottle in some more clean fluid, and then pumping the pedal... holding it down whilst opening the nipple, waiting for the fluid/air to come out, closing the nipple and slowly releasing the pedal agin... oh yeh, and this is done with the cap off the reservoir, and plenty of fluid in it so no air coming in from the top.

I have been doing this method for over 6 hours (on and off), and still got no pressure on the pedal.....:confused:

I have then tried taking the caliper off the bracket, and lowering it to the floor (releasing the line from the swing arm), and opening the nipple and just leaving it to allow the fluid to act with gravity to pull the fluid down the line... after bing left for a few hours, have tightened the nipple back up and pumped the pedal to relase any air which has now gone to the top near the reservoir/master cylinder, and then put the caliper back, and primed the sytem as above, but still no pressure...:confused:

I have then tried another method of back flushing with a syringe at the caliper pushing the fluid through and into the reservoir... at this the pads/piston closed up, and for a short time... I got pressure... however when went for a test ride, the first time I touched the pedal, nothing...:confused:

I have checked the entire sytem for leaks... put ptfe tape on all threads (nipples, banjo's etc..), it is a new goodridge braided hose, and new pads and disk.... At first I did get lots of air coming out ( to be expected with a new hose ), but now just get fluid coming out of the nipple into the tube, whenever I try to bleed it up...

So basically... I NEED HELP....!!!!

Thanks

Titch.
 

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Have you considered the master cylinder seals? I had exactly the same problem with the clutch on a car. I could get it bled eventually but within an hour it had gone again.

What was it that made you start the bleeding in the first place?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What was it that made you start the bleeding in the first place?
Converting the rear end from drum brake to disk...
 

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Does it use a slave?
If so is that working properly?
 

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Get e length of said clear tube, get a 20cc syringe from the chemists, suck up some brake fluid.

Connect the clear tube to the syringe at one end, to the caliper bleed nipple at the other (bleed nipple being open) and gently press the plunder feed fluid from the bottom of the system, back up to the master cylinder and reservoir, thus avoiding having to fight against air bubbles wanting to rise.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Get e length of said clear tube, get a 20cc syringe from the chemists, suck up some brake fluid.

Connect the clear tube to the syringe at one end, to the caliper bleed nipple at the other (bleed nipple being open) and gently press the plunder feed fluid from the bottom of the system, back up to the master cylinder and reservoir, thus avoiding having to fight against air bubbles wanting to rise.
Already done...
I have then tried another method of back flushing with a syringe at the caliper pushing the fluid through and into the reservoir... at this the pads/piston closed up, and for a short time... I got pressure... however when went for a test ride, the first time I touched the pedal, nothing...:confused:
Does it use a slave?
No it doesn't have a slave... just reservoir, to master cylinder then hose down to caliper....

In relation to the seals on the master cylinder.... it gets plenty of pressure at this point if you remove the hose and stick your finger over the hole, it almost pushes you finger off, then if you remove your fingerto let off the pressure then put it back... when you release the lever again it sucks down on your finger creating a vacuum effect, so based on this I can assume that the seals are ok...:confused:
 

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Already done...


No it doesn't have a slave... just reservoir, to master cylinder then hose down to caliper....

In relation to the seals on the master cylinder.... it gets plenty of pressure at this point if you remove the hose and stick your finger over the hole, it almost pushes you finger off, then if you remove your fingerto let off the pressure then put it back... when you release the lever again it sucks down on your finger creating a vacuum effect, so based on this I can assume that the seals are ok...:confused:
What pipe are you using?
If it is rubber maybe it is flexing too much, else it could be a problem with the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What pipe are you using?
If it is rubber maybe it is flexing too much, else it could be a problem with the caliper.
The pipe I'm usin is from a brake bleed kit for a car, which uses one of those one way valves... great for cars, but sh*te for bikes, as you can't get enough pressure to force the fluid through, and it just forces it's way out of the side of the bleed nipple... but anyway, the pipe is up for the job.
What could it be with the caliper...:confused:

Latest.. I've just phoned a mate who has a garage nearby, and he said take it to him in the morning, and he will have a look for me... Just got to do the 1 mile ride with only front brake..(which is also very soft due to master cylinder on it's way out... not changed it yet..Doh...thats the next job...).
 

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Use the banjo where the hose connects to the master cylinder as a bleed nipple.

The set up traps air at this point. . . . . put some rags to catch the fluid .
 

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Hi
Rather than lowering the calliper, you could try raising it up as high as poss. This will help any air bubbles to rise. Keep the bleed nipple uppermost.
Also, if you have somebody else to press the pedal, you could try the old fashioned way. Open the nipple, shout down, press the pedal- close the nipple, release the pedal. Open the nipple and repeat ad nausium. I know its long winded and slow but it may help, especially if there is an air leak at the pipe on the nipple.
Have fun

By the way, on another subject, you posted some time ago about wheels from other models that would fit a TA. Do you know if an Africa twin front wheel would fit? Does the Dominator front disk not fit a TA?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi
Rather than lowering the calliper, you could try raising it up as high as poss. This will help any air bubbles to rise. Keep the bleed nipple uppermost.
Also, if you have somebody else to press the pedal, you could try the old fashioned way. Open the nipple, shout down, press the pedal- close the nipple, release the pedal. Open the nipple and repeat ad nausium. I know its long winded and slow but it may help, especially if there is an air leak at the pipe on the nipple.
Have fun

By the way, on another subject, you posted some time ago about wheels from other models that would fit a TA. Do you know if an Africa twin front wheel would fit? Does the Dominator front disk not fit a TA?
Thanks
Oh yeh forgot to put that bit in, as though the post was long enough as it was.. already tried the above methods aswell.... well at the moment the bike is at my mates garage for him to have alook at it, as he has all the proper gear there to do it.... so will let you know what the result is...

Re the other matter... I have just replied to your thread on this topic.... take a look...
 

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. at this the pads/piston closed up, and for a short time... I got pressure... however when went for a test ride, the first time I touched the pedal, nothing...:confused:

Having re-read, and based on this information I would agree with an earlier post that its the master cylinder seals that are no longer fluid tight.

The seal is good enough to stop a return of fluid when you pump the pedal several times, but whilst out, the fluid seeps back, equalises the pressure to the point that a single pump of the pedal is not enough to make the brakes function....

That's my guess....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As per what all of you have said... Got my bike back from my mates who has done a full bleed using a vacuum pump, and his diagnosis is.... Seals have gone on the master cylinder... So next thing to try is the spare master cylinder that I have first, and if that has the same problem then will be getting a cylinder repair kit from Ebay... might just get one anyway even if this other cylinder works, just as a standby, cos the other one I have is a second hand one, so don't know how reliable the seals are on that one also... So looks like I'm stuck riding my scooter for a bit longer untill it's all sorted...

Cheers Guys,

Titch:thumb:
 

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Re: Can't get it up at the rear....!!!

eeerm ??????????????






:bootyshake:






NO NO NO !!







must show restraint








Could say sumfing funny ! but wont:evil2:


:angel5:


I aint going there even if you tease me
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was right.... I was right :blob7:
Sorry guys... but he was.... wel, there's a first time for everything I suppose...:p:p:p
 

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OK, you may have thought of this idea too.
I don't know how warped your disk is, or how thick it is, ie how much meat there is to play with. However, it may be possible that a machine shop ( with a large enough lathe) could skim it and get the two surfaces parallel again. Obviously, there is a minimum thickness required, That will depend on how much damage is done. Also, this will shorten the life of the disk. In the long term it may not be worth it. In the short term, it would get you on the road for less.
------------------------------------
Also, you mentioned in another thread that you (may) have a front wheel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Titch
Hi there again mate,
One further option for you is... As I'm changing my wheels I will have a spare front wheel, with a fairly new disk attached, and front tyre with approx 2-3 mm tread left on it. But firstly, dont get your hopes up for this too much, as first dibs on this wheel have gone to Warthog, but if he doesn't need it anymore than it could be yours (and also the fact that it is still on my bike at the minute, as funds ran out for me to buy a AT disk for the Dommie wheel...:wink:).

Titch
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A wheel that bolts straight on would be perfect. How much are you selling it for?
Is there any way of finding out if Warthog is interested in the near future? I’m getting a bit jumpy now with days left before the MoT runs out.
My nobile is 07989232629 if you want to txt/call.
Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: Can't get it up at the rear....!!!

eeerm ??????????????
:bootyshake:
NO NO NO !!
must show restraint
Could say sumfing funny ! but wont:evil2:
:angel5:

I aint going there even if you tease me
And thats why I put this title on the thread... as I knew it would get peoples attention VERY easily...;););)

But... go on, go on, reeeaaaalllly, dare you to say somin...:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
WWhhhooooooo, I've finally got it up.....!!!!!:rolleyes::rolleyes: Pressure in the rear brake that is...:p:p:p

Update on what was need to get this to eventually work:

-new copper washers all round
-master cylinder repair kit
-new brake line
-caliper piston seals replaced
-new bleed nipple on the caliper
-lots of fluid used in the process of trying to get it to work

And it now works...:thumbup:

Just got to sort the front out now.... as whilst having problems with the rear also had a soft front brake, and was planning on replacing the master cylinder with a new repair kit... did this and also was replacing the front disk and new pads... but when trying to push the pistons back found the pistons to be all corroded and seized up, and also the bleed nipple snapped off as the tread was seized on this aswell...:(:(
Replacement caliper arrived today, so should get round to fitting it later, and hopefully this one should bleed up a bit easier....:confused:

Titch.:sunny:
 
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