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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.

I've bored you all with tales of fitting engines, so I'm not going to do that with this post... I now have a new (sigh) problem.

When the engine is under medium to full load, it has a serious misfire and power loss. To improve its running, I have temporarily removed the air filter, which means it'll rev more, and now I can use about 50% power.

My mechanic reckons that a jet is blocking, or a slider isn't doing its thing properly. He reckons a carb stripdown is called for. I, however, don't fancy this job, as it's a complete sod to get the carbs out of the engine in the first place.

I bought some Redex and chucked that in the fuel last night, along with some Wynn's carb cleaner that I have sprayed into the airbox. No difference as yet.

Does anyone know of any miracle fluid that actually makes a difference?

Thanks.
 

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I presume you already tried the easy options by checking the filter (blocked?) and/or draining the carbs? Leave the fuel tap open for a while and flushes them through a bit: Catch the petrol to see if you notice debris or water drops. Usually not good enough but maybe you're lucky :wink:
I use Redex every now and then (nicking it out of my girl friend's VW camper), pretty good stuff but I think it is not strong enough to open a blocked jet?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
At the moment, I'm running around without any air filter - this has increased the engine's efficiency at low speed, but understandably constrains high speed running. With my filter in place, I struggled to achieve 40mph (very dull). My mechanic diagnosed the problem as unburnt fuel, as the exhaust appeared to be chucking out a lot of black smeg.

I'll give it more of a go at lunchtime, as I have to have a concern for my neighbours where I live!
 

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I was more thinking of the fuel filter, but if there is unburnt fuel then I suppose that is not a problem either.
Hmmmm. Does the bike run better when cold? I once had a sticky choke-cable (also the little choke "piston" and spring on the carb were all rusty) making the bike less responsive when warm and produce a lot of smoke.

Otherwise, it seems you have to bite the bullet and clean out those carbs. It is not that difficult really, just be careful with all those petrol fumes (if your bike starts to look like a pink elefant, open the garage door or window and get some fresh air :D ).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It runs badly all the time basically.

I have booked it into a Honda dealer for Monday to get the carbs looked at, mainly because they are a complete sod to remove from the frame. The manual states that you can lift them through the top of the frame, but I have never managed to do that, as they appear to be too wide. Also, there seem to be a lot of parts that could go missing!

Is it something you've done then?
 

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skeptical old git
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My AT is in the workshop at the moment. I didn't know that it was tricky to get at the carbs - I just assumed it was and din't even try! (Honda and V configuration: two pretty reliable indicators that it will be a pain to work on)

He has diagnosed blocked pilot jet - this would explain the erratic idling, though I would have thought it was unliley to affect running at 3000rpm, which was the other symptom I had.

I once had a sticky choke-cable (also the little choke "piston" and spring on the carb were all rusty)
But he also found the choke cable and the piston/spring assembly were all
"really f**ked pal". He reckons these collect water, so presumbaly I can look forward to this happening again!
 

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landyandy said:
Is it something you've done then?
I have taken them off once from an NTV (similar engine), not too much of a problem (though it was a long time ago so maybe my memory has a blank here). On the AT, I have only loosened them once to remove and clean the bowls and pilot jets. Fiddly but not difficult if you have a manual like the one from Haynes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have the manual from Honda - some of it seriously oversimplifies tasks!

I'm off to get heavy with the redex and carb cleaner, so check back in a couple of hours if you want to see how I got on!

Oh - welcome to the forum, BTW!
 

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landyandy said:
Oh - welcome to the forum, BTW!
For a moment I thought this was the atic.org's forum where I already am a member (I came here through Google, looking for a solution to my fuel pump problem), but I just realised I am actually new here :D
Sorry for bargeing in like this. :oops:

From some of the member's names I can tell there are quite a few atic members here. Already wondered why atic had become so quiet lately.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The ATIC forum I never found to be of great use, to be honest - I didn't like the fact that it was only an email group.

Anyway, I got down to the carbs, chucked in a load of cleaner, ran the bike for a bit, then, concerningly, got some horrid metallic noises coming from the engine (as if it's eaten something it shouldn't). Eek.

Oh, and the misfire is still there.

Not looking forward to the journey home now. Boo.
 

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I've taken the carbs out of my Transalp and that must be close to the same arrangement being a V twin also.
They were a complete sod but I had some practice with taking them in and out a few times which I'll recount.... lest anyone else makes the same mistake!

I too had running problems and after discussing a likely plan of action on the Transalp list decided to bit the bullet and strip down the carbs.
Tank came off, air filter pipes removed and after some messing about the carbs came out.
I stripped them down but noticed that some of the gaskets were worn.
After contacting Fowlers in Bristol (robbing b*stards) they quoted me something like £30 for a set of carb gaskets. So me being me I decided to use the gasket seal stuff in a tube. :) Most of you experienced mechanics can guess what's coming next!
All put back together. Runs wonderfully. Problem solved.
Until I'm travelling back to work when it dies on half or full throttle.
Limp home on tick over by screwing in the tick over screw fully in and leaving the choke open!
Further consultation points to electrical problems so change HT leads / plugs / fiddle with other bits.
In desperation decide to look at carbs again and on opening them see loads of white gunge inside from the gasket seal stuff that had leaked inside when I closed the carbs up. Arrrggghhh.
Spent hours cleaning them up again and very very very gingerly put a "little" gasket seal back on and they worked fine from there on in.

My recollection of getting the carbs back in is that you require plenty of oil on the carb rubbers to ease them in and be prepared for skinned knuckles as you apply pressure and they slip! Leave plenty of time for the job and keep coming back to them.
They will go in honest!!
 

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Don't forget that the carb rubbers [Mmmm] only fit one way, there are lugs to locate everything, I found them fairly easy to fit [well easy after the engine] You just have to twist and wobble at the right time, and refrain from throwing them out of the window. :lol:
 

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skeptical old git
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My AT is in the workshop at the moment. I didn't know that it was tricky to get at the carbs - I just assumed it was and din't even try! (Honda and V configuration: two pretty reliable indicators that it will be a pain to work on)

He has diagnosed blocked pilot jet - this would explain the erratic idling, though I would have thought it was unliley to affect running at 3000rpm, which was the other symptom I had.

Quote:
I once had a sticky choke-cable (also the little choke "piston" and spring on the carb were all rusty)


But he also found the choke cable and the piston/spring assembly were all
"really f**ked pal". He reckons these collect water, so presumbaly I can look forward to this happening again!
AT back now and running really well. Easy to start, smooth tickover, pulls progressivly from about 1500rpm up.

The choke cable and plunger were corroded, and the choke wouldn't close fully on the front cylinder, so it was running rich. Also blocked pilot jet on the front.

Now I know a little more about carbs - pilot jet will affect running up to 4000rpm.

Seems to be a common fdault with the choke cable. It forks, and the bit for the front cylinder carb goes through an elbow piece that sticks upwards and collects water and feeds it down to corrode the cable, the elbow bit itself, the return spring and the choke plunger:-( Replacing all the bits adds up to about 100 quid (if you have to get official Honda parts from a main dealer).

I also paid 4 hours labour. Ouch. Suspect I might have been "fined" two hours worth for making him take the carbs off twice;-)
 

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I am a bit confused: Are "icenian" and "landyandy" the same people, or did you just have similar problems at the same time?

[pedant mode]Well, I did mention the sticky choke[/pedant mode].

One hundred quid is quite steep, I did not replace anything but just cleaned and greased it all up (probably need to repeat that sooner than you though :roll: :wink: ).

Whatever. great that your bike is all happy and well again :D
 

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skeptical old git
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Nope I'm not landyandy, but there's not just us, there's someone else (on the XRV mail list) with the exact same problem!

One hundred quid is quite steep,
just hope your speedo drive never packs up!!!
 

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icenian said:
just hope your speedo drive never packs up!!!
Not sure I want to know... :oops:

Ahh, go on then , tell me how much that would cost me (KA-CHINGGGG!) :wink:

BTW speedo drive: Is that the bit in the front wheel or the speedo itself? Can't be the cable, they cost peanuts. Well, expensive peanuts maybe...
 

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robelst said:
icenian said:
just hope your speedo drive never packs up!!!
Not sure I want to know... :oops:

Ahh, go on then , tell me how much that would cost me (KA-CHINGGGG!) :wink:

BTW speedo drive: Is that the bit in the front wheel or the speedo itself? Can't be the cable, they cost peanuts. Well, expensive peanuts maybe...
I mean the drive on the front wheel spindle. I shudder to think what the actual "clock" costs!

A cable is about 17 pounds. In the wheel itself there's a wee tabbed washer that is a mere 3 quid. In the gearbox there is a plastic gear that costs nearly 20 quid. The gearbox itself is well the wrong side of 100 quid!

So give it a nice clean up and some fresh grease whenever the front wheel is off;-)

tim
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My carb cleaner made no difference at all, so I bit the bullet and booked the bike into a Honda dealer in London. It was due to go in this morning ...

Well, waddya know - get on bike at 7am, look up at the heavens and groan at the weather, hit the starter, and am greeted with 'click'. Arse.

Whip off side panel, attach jumper leads, hit starter, 'click'. Double-arse.

Run up and down driveway trying to push start, but give up due to getting a bit sweaty. Phone AA.

Have tea and await little yellow van - turns up in 25 minutes (v. impressive). AA man gets the same as above, and starts doing a bit of probing with circuit tester - AA man says that the starter motor has died. Triple arse. Fortunately, I have a spare one on my old engine. Bit bothered by its premature death tho.
 

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Have you tried jumping up and down screaming at it for a bit as a warning and then striking it vigorously with a bit of tree branch. Seen that somewhere before, although it escapes me where at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Turns out that it wasn't the starter at all. I had a bit of a fright last week when the engine made a death rattle, but the noise went away fortunately.

I swapped the starters over, and it still wouldn't go, so I removed the flywheel cover, and took out a couple of cogs, after which the starter spun happily. Then, I noticed that there was much metal on the flywheel cog - turns out that a metal wiring guide must have worked loose and said hello to the flywheel cog, and had jammed in some of the teeth. That's now been removed, and the engine turns over. Excellent.

Not so good was when I decided to fix the water leak coming from the metal pipe by the water pump - the bolt sheared off, so that'll now have to be attended to. Deep joy.
 
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