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Discussion Starter #1
RD07A is running like a dog, pretty sure it's blocked jets. I have read up, and it seems like it's going to be a total b1tch to try and get the carbs off and clean them up.

Before I do so, are there any other top tips that might I might be able to try?

I have tried carb cleaner and Redex and it's not helped.

If anyone's got any advice on the job itself, please also share :)

Thanks.
 

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the trick is to let the bike tick over, as this is when the wee jets are in use and get cleaned, if out using the bike , then above 1/3 throttle only the main jets are being flushed

I have done this on a few bikes now that have been stood for a while and run like dogs on first start up:---

1x MOTUL FUEL SYSTEM CLEAN CLEANER FUEL ADDITIVE PETROL ENGINE MOTOR CYCLE BIKE | eBay

with low fuel levels so it realy rich then

let the bike tick over for a hour..... yes an hour

you will need to keep an eye on the bike so the no mischeif becomes it from over heating ( good test of the Fans and thermo switch).


worth a try... worked for me on the XLV750 when I had a pilot jet block, ( temperature monitored with a heat sensor as this is an Air cooled motor ) and the 750 twin that had been stood for years.. :thumbup:
 

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Hi, I've removed my RD07A's carbs a while ago and it's really not a biaaatch at all - it takes a while though to remove the tank, air box and all the plumbing and cabling (around 1.5hrs).

Once removed, they disassemble easily enough for a thorough cleaning (and gives access to do a quick valve clearance check if needed).

Use carb cleaner do dissolve all the nasties in and around the bowls and filtered compressed air to blow all the carb channels clean. Don't poke anything into the micro holes in the jets - you'll just block them for good.

Fitting the carbs back onto the engine was tricky for me with them facing opposite directions - just use oil to lubricate the rubber rings and make sure the clamps are tight afterwards.

You get a feeling of accomplishment and pride holding a squeaky clean carb in your hands
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Many thanks. I hadn't really thought of that... My instinct was to revv it, not idle it. Will try it out tonight...
 

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I'm having a similar problem with mine at the moment, but I think it's the main jet that's blocked, not the idle jet. Bike starts fine, idles great, but as soon as you pull away the lack of power is obvious. Went out for a ride with my son on Sunday to Brands Hatch and he left me standing. He was on a TZR 125, slightly embarrassing.
Have tried Redex, new fuel etc, so now it's carbs off for a clean, etc. What fun!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Won't even idle unless the choke is almost all the way out. Will it still be beneficial in this case?
 

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The only way to ensure that the carbs are truly cleaned is to get them ultrasonically cleaned in a proper bath with proper carb cleaning chemicals.
You can spray any amount of carb cleaner in the carb, run all kinds of additives through it and still find that the small passages in the carb body have a coating on them that may come out at a later point.
DAMHIK.
There are firms that advertise this service or you can buy a small cleaner that will do carbs for around 50stg and then some carb cleaning solution from allendale ultrasonics. 10stg for a litre that makes 10 litres of cleaner.

Run them through the hot bath a few times and you will be amazed at how much crap will come out of a clean carb.

I would put more faith in an ultrasonic clean than carb cleaner spray, and I do have a can of it to hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
We have an ultrasonic bath at work. Time to call in some favors.... :)
 

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You have the technology, put it to work for you!
One other thing comes to mind, when you remove the needle jet holders make sure the holes in them are not ovalised.
Not sure if this is a big problem on Honda V-twins but big singles can ovalise the hole and lead to poor running without it being immediately obvious.
 

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How did you find out that it's a blocked jet? Is one cylinder running lean?
 

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How did you find out that it's a blocked jet? Is one cylinder running lean?
I have a Trailtech fitted to the XLV750 with a Cylinder Head Temperature monitor that fits under the spark-plug on the rear cylinder, alarms at 180C, normally runs 125-150 in the winter and up to 175 on a hot day...
nice winters day and it shot to 210C very quickly, bike was running ok but stop start on the way home to keep it cool, checked and temperature indication was correct, so looked like it was running lean on that cylinder ... did the carb clean trick before stripping the carbs and it cleared , and was fine after that:thumbup:
 

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Without trying to sound too condescending.....but choke and fuel pump are always the first places to start on an africa when not running right. Have you checked them out?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have the facet fuel pump mod. The choke cable feels ok, not sticky, and has an effect, so I assume its working.Is there a simple way to diagnose choke problems?
 

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I recently experienced slight holding back at highish steady revs. I had the choke plungers out a few months back and the one to two cable joint apart and cleaned and light lubed it all so I pulled it all apart again and it looked fine. I then did the disable choke mod (brake pin cover caps hold in the plungers) and it is running sweetly again so quite intriguing. About a fiver for the 2 caps.
 

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My bike has the chokes blanked off. She starts first push of the starter even after 3 weeks stood in winter. Just a hint of throttle on start up and off she goes. I idled the bike with an overdose of redex in the tank for an hour to clean the idle jets. Now she will tickover without any throttle input after half a minute. Runs sweet as a nut and on last weekends run returned 54.21mpg...;)
 

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Not sure if it's an indication of other things, but I've been running with a sticky choke for months, and it makes a sort of "sucking" or "hissing" sound.

I cleaned out the chokes today, the rear pot spring had bent a bit of the spring wire over the plunger, so I pinched the spring tight with pliers, reversed it and refitted it, now I'm running much better, no sucking sound Except for when I pull the choke lever in! It settles nicely on release, but the spring will need replacing soon as it's only a temporary fix I guess.
 

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I've had blocked pilot/slow running jets on various bikes (but never on my @) and you soon get to know the symptoms, even on a multi-cylinder engine where one or two jets may be blocked. I read somewhere that the jets can be successfully cleared putting them in boiling water with added fresh lemon juice. So I gave it a go and - believe it or not - it worked :eek: I guess it must be the effects of the citric acid.
Re. my @, I haven't used the choke for 10 years and dare not use it for fear of the plungers sticking. But, it almost always starts first time, even after standing for a while in cold weather. The one time it was reluctant to start, after some time of non-use in freezing weather, I warmed the carbs with a hairdryer and, guess what, it fired up :)
 

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thread hijack......:thumbup:



both my ATs have fully functioning chokes and wont start with out choke...

is it only me?
 
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