The man is correct - the replacement CDI holder (a Honda Mod apparently) is:-
30401-MM9-010
Costs £11.54 plus all the usual from David Silver Spares
Also said previously, there is a problem with the internal solder connections breaking down (age + vibration???). This little problem has been tackeled & remedied by several really clever and small fingered people who have opened up the offending item and re-soldered all the contacts.
I've got a couple of "dodgy" CDI's sitting in the garage awaiting my fumbling attempt to sort them - they'll wait a little longer yet I think
:thumbup:
Steve T
Personally I'd listen to this comment...:thumbright:
Recently had a fault with mine cuttin out on one cylinder, and went down the route of changing the CDI's and the holder, as found it mentioned on several forums, and the easy fix is to get the new style CDI holder, which still puts the CDI's under the seat but instead of being next to each other in a verticle position, and lays them down one infront of the other in a horizontal position (if I get time tommoz I will take a piccy of mine to show you...). I got mine from my local Honda dealer, and the price was about £15.
The thing is this didn't cure my fault, as after I replaced both CDI's and got the new holder, my problem continued. Based on what I found out, is your problem just when you move the wires about or does it start when the engine gets warm...
It turned out that what was causing my fault was one of my pulse generators was failing when the engine got to temperature, which in turn took out one of my CDI's.
The way to check you pulse coils is described in the haynes manual, and basically you do the following:
Using a Ohmmeter check for continuity between the connector terminals, to check the front coil measure the resistance between the blue wire and the white and blue wire, and rear is between the yellow wire and white and yellow wire. You are looking for a reading between 360 & 540 Ohms at 20 degrees C (cold engine..). anything different to this and your coils are knackered. Mine were fine when cold but when at temperature the front coil gave no reading even when the rear one was giving a normal reading, and thats how I found out it was the coil which was knackered not my CDI's.
You will find the wires for you coils coming out of the front of the engine block on the right hand side cover, and the plug is hidden up behind the top of the rads, and is easier to get at with the tank off.
Last thing, to help find exactly which CDI is playing up (if the coils are fine), if it's the rear coil/CDI then you rev counter will drop off as well, but if it's the front then the rev counter will stay on. I think it was the left hand CDI (looking towards the front of the bike) that is for the rear, but easiest way to check is look at the wires going into each CDI the rear will have (amongst others) a solid yellow wire going to it, and the front will have a solid blue one going to it.
Hope this helps
