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Señor Member
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Discussion Starter #1
After reading lots of the correct amount of chain slack I think it looks like there should be about 70mm between the underside of the swingarm and the chain (i.e. you can wedge a 70mm block inbetween the swingarm and chain) with this in mind I've cut a bit of 2"x1" to 70mm and I'll keep it in my topbox, anyhow, my son works in the drawing orifice at a local engineering company and he said that they are just about to buy a laser cutter, now if you had access to a laser cutter what would you make? I'm thinking something along the lines of something around 2 inch wide, 70mm high and whatever could be cut into the tool (think along the lines of those crappy pressed steel multi spanners that were popular with cyclists a few years ago) it's the 70mm bit that is important as the other measurements can be as big as they need to be but I'm thinking something which is easily stow-able and would be handy as an emergency tool, a spoke key comes to mind but after that I've drawn a blank.

If I can persuade my son to make this XRV.org.uk wonder tool I'll get him to knock a couple up for the best ideas and send them out as freebies and make the drawings available should anyone want to make their own up.

Anyone interested?
 

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Hill Rider
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Not for me thanks - My 70mm wide block of wood has seen years of service, but thanks for the offer :thumbup:

Steve T

:cool:
 

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After reading lots of the correct amount of chain slack I think it looks like there should be about 70mm between the underside of the swingarm and the chain (i.e. you can wedge a 70mm block inbetween the swingarm and chain)
Ehm, is this with the bike on a stand, rear wheel not touching the ground? :) ?
 

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Señor Member
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Discussion Starter #5
On side stand with (obviously) wheel on ground, 70mm block wedged between swingarm and chain, don't confuse with 70mm of movement though!
 

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Señor Member
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Discussion Starter #6
Block of wood will defo do the job Steve, I just thought that it might be handy to have a multi use item rather than what looks like a piece of waste lumber rolling about in the topbox
 

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Interesting, could be a large 70mm wide chain link shape with XRV cut out the middle, could double up as a side stand foot!!
 

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Can we have a pic?
Thx
Wood is not such a good idea IMO only because it absorbs oil and will wear over time. I would suggest
a length of metal dowel that you could cut down to size. I used aluminum but steel is fine too and
probably easier and cheaper to source. Using bolts that you can cut to size would also work well but that
can get costly if you want to go into production. :) I think you want at least 3/8" in diam. otherwise anything smaller
could fall thru the links. Metal is easy to wipe after...roll it up in cloth and stick it in your tank bag.

Following is 3/8" diam...works for me. :p




 

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Wood is not such a good idea IMO only because it absorbs oil and will wear over time. I would suggest
a length of metal dowel that you could cut down to size. I used aluminum but steel is fine too and
probably easier and cheaper to source. Using bolts that you can cut to size would also work well but that
can get costly if you want to go into production. :) I think you want at least 3/8" in diam. otherwise anything smaller
could fall thru the links. Metal is easy to wipe after...roll it up in cloth and stick it in your tank bag.

Following is 3/8" diam...works for me. :p




Thanks, this clariefies :)

Dude that chain is so clean that it makes me scary :D
 

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Thanks, this clariefies :)

Dude that chain is so clean that it makes me scary :D
Whaddya mean? That's when it was dirty. :D You want to be scared?

Check this out. :eek:

Cookie's right...the Scottoiler with chainsaw bar oil going thru it tends to keep it clean.

 

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Señor Member
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748 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Wood is not such a good idea IMO only because it absorbs oil and will wear over time. I would suggest
a length of metal dowel that you could cut down to size. I used aluminum but steel is fine too and
probably easier and cheaper to source. Using bolts that you can cut to size would also work well but that
can get costly if you want to go into production. :) I think you want at least 3/8" in diam. otherwise anything smaller
could fall thru the links. Metal is easy to wipe after...roll it up in cloth and stick it in your tank bag.
Dowel works, better than wood (would) but it's not something that could be cut from sheet steel with a laser cutter though, this brings a different dimension to the design of this supertool if we are to make if from bar then how could we design other tools into this bar? first thought would be to have one end cut for use with 1/4 or 3/8 drive sockets and the other end have a hole set at right angles to the length for poking another length of bar to be used as a handle, even this simple tool would be more time consuming to produce than a laser just cutting a bit of steel plate so it most likely wouldn't happen...

Interesting, could be a large 70mm wide chain link shape with XRV cut out the middle, could double up as a side stand foot!!
Lets have a look at your drawing of it Kitped!
(just thinking a bit more about your idea it could be chain link shaped and have a couple of holes drilled 70mm apart and have a couple of bolts fastened to it to somehow allow fixing to the sidestand foot) like this:
supatool.jpg
 

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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
I've been sing this ct-down paint brush handle since I got the AT:



Works a treat, free, apart from 5 mins with a saw and file, lives in the bag on the bars.
 

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Señor Member
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748 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I've been sing this ct-down paint brush handle since I got the AT:



Works a treat, free, apart from 5 mins with a saw and file, lives in the bag on the bars.
Yep, it'll work just as well as anything else would that is 70mm wide, basically all I'm trying to do is to task my lad with designing and producing something with more than one use and doesn't rattle around like a bit of left over wood or studding, overkill perhaps but hey!
 

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OVALTEENY !!!
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6,063 Posts
Yep, it'll work just as well as anything else would that is 70mm wide, basically all I'm trying to do is to task my lad with designing and producing something with more than one use and doesn't rattle around like a bit of left over wood or studding, overkill perhaps but hey!
Here's a thought Bolty

There are a select few fortunate owners of ATs that still have the dooberrywhizzer that fits under the seat and is used to prop the tank up - perhaps the 70mm mcjiggy could be fashioned to fit this purpose as well - these parts cannot be bought on their own - you have to buy the whole seat unit, which is no longer available !!

I'm sure this would be of more help than spanner type thingy

Thanks for the thought and hope this tasks your son

Hope someone more technical will be along to show you off a fiche or pic what I am on about
 

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Señor Member
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748 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Here's a thought Bolty

There are a select few fortunate owners of ATs that still have the dooberrywhizzer that fits under the seat and is used to prop the tank up - perhaps the 70mm mcjiggy could be fashioned to fit this purpose as well - these parts cannot be bought on their own - you have to buy the whole seat unit, which is no longer available !!

I'm sure this would be of more help than spanner type thingy

Thanks for the thought and hope this tasks your son




Hope someone more technical will be along to show you off a fiche or pic what I am on about
That is a good idea, I think I've got the dooberrygadge still fitted to my seat (I say think only because I've never had the need to use it but vaguely remember seeing it) I'll look into this further at the weekend.

Thanks for that Paul
 

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hi everyone from a neewbe! Re chain tension. On many bikes over the years i have simply converted the chain movement specification, with the bike in neutral, into a practical measurment for the UPPER chain run. Then simply marked the height of allowed chain lift onto the the chain guard, which usuallly mounts on top of the swinging arm on most bikes. i often groove the mostly plastic chain guards and then put a dab of paint in the groove to highlight it. Then, at a later date with the bike in neutral (most important) you only have to lift the chain towards the mark to judge the chains tension, no need for a measuring device! This has worked for me. Please let me know what you think. nigel
 

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better check mine as its 70mm with bike on centre stand. taught thats what saw on atic site.

ah why not made up a flat plate with 2 notches out of it. 1 for over tight one for too loose. so as long as chain goes into one notch and not the other then its perfect tension
 

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Señor Member
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Discussion Starter #20
hi everyone from a neewbe! Re chain tension. On many bikes over the years i have simply converted the chain movement specification, with the bike in neutral, into a practical measurment for the UPPER chain run. Then simply marked the height of allowed chain lift onto the the chain guard, which usuallly mounts on top of the swinging arm on most bikes. i often groove the mostly plastic chain guards and then put a dab of paint in the groove to highlight it. Then, at a later date with the bike in neutral (most important) you only have to lift the chain towards the mark to judge the chains tension, no need for a measuring device! This has worked for me. Please let me know what you think. nigel
Yep Nige, that could well work but it's not making use of the laser cutter that my son's employers are buying!

Welcome to the forum BTW, your profile is a bit light on detail, where about's are you?
 
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