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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are times I'd like to line up a few of Honda's designers and pelt them with cannonballs made of their own excrement. Sometimes I wonder what they were thinking, or if they were thinking.

One of these is the idea that you have to disassemble the exhaust, including headers, to do the valves. One is for the Muppet who designed the small bolt that holds the side faring to the front fairing, under the headstock. Which insists on dropping into the fairing panel when ever I cack-handedly try to screw it in and it jumps out of the screwdriver slots, thus necessitating the removal of the panel to retrive it. With a bit of thought, they could have made it so that it fell out rather than in.

And finally for the one how decided that you have to take off the back shock to remove the overflow tank when changing the coolant. I mean WTF! I've better things to be doing with my time.

OK, rant over.

If you are changing your coolant, and don't want to remove the back shock, or the overflow tank, then here's what you do.

1. Take off RHS fairing and belly pan as per instructions.
2. Open Radiator cap and remove.
3. Put cling-film over Radiator filling opening
4. Open Overflow tank cap.
5. Open drain bolt.

Now the coolant should drain, and suck the coolant in the reservoir up and into the radiator. You can see this through the cling-film. in my case, it needed a quick blow down the reservoir filler to start the siphoning (there could have been a build-up of gunk in the pipe.)

Once the coolant is out of the reservoir, you can take the cling-film off to keep the coolant draining. You will hear and see when the overflow tank is empty.

Hope this helps.
Corkboy
 
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Thats an interesting method, I normally pull the small transfer pipe from the radiator & use that to drain the header tank but will give your method a go in future :)
 

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Hi, I have jut had the pleasure of checking valve clearance on my 700, after a lot of stress and aggravation I managed to do the job without removing the exhaust. I just undid the plate behind the head and with a small hacksaw removed the wire cable holder thingy, this gives you just enough room to fiddle off the cover.when putting it back together I cable tied the wire. This should save me about 4 hours next time I attempt the valves, this will only be done when they rattle!
 

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Hi, I have jut had the pleasure of checking valve clearance on my 700, after a lot of stress and aggravation I managed to do the job without removing the exhaust. I just undid the plate behind the head and with a small hacksaw removed the wire cable holder thingy, this gives you just enough room to fiddle off the cover.when putting it back together I cable tied the wire. This should save me about 4 hours next time I attempt the valves, this will only be done when they rattle!
A hacksaw's not usually listed as one of the tools required to check valve clearances! ... but there again, I've a 650, and haven't read the book for the 700 ;)


Oh, and I like the trick for emptying the expansion bottle... good bit of lateral thinking there :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi, I have jut had the pleasure of checking valve clearance on my 700, after a lot of stress and aggravation I managed to do the job without removing the exhaust. I just undid the plate behind the head and with a small hacksaw removed the wire cable holder thingy, this gives you just enough room to fiddle off the cover.when putting it back together I cable tied the wire. This should save me about 4 hours next time I attempt the valves, this will only be done when they rattle!
Yep, did the same http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/transalp/74371-checking-valves-700-couple-tips.html

But do it before you take the PAR valve off - to prevent swarf going into the exposed valve.
 

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Every time they update the transalp they make it harder to do things like this. I remember spending hours removing the bloody fairing and tank just to to change the plugs on the 650.
 

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Every time they update the transalp they make it harder to do things like this. I remember spending hours removing the bloody fairing and tank just to to change the plugs on the 650.
Only for some smart arse to come along and tell you that you don't need to remove the fairing on a 650 to do the plugs :)
 

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thats what i remember, but it was a few years go, and i have since sold the bike and gone back to a 600cc model
 

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Another way of darning the header tank is syphon it out. Use a piece of spare pipe from my fish tank air pump.
 

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Jeves; This should save me about 4 hours next time I attempt the valves said:
Thing is they might never rattle, even on engines all engineered up to run on today's shite fuel valve seats can recess closing up clearances and doing damage.
 
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