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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

I'mm sure this has been done to death but....

So I started the bike in the car park tonight, it started as per normal and when I revved it the bike cut out. Maybe had to much choke, maybe a number of reasons.

Thing is the bike wouldn't start again, I kept trying and in my frustration and panic probably touched the throttle again which probably flooded the bike. Not sure. In the end the battery died. Luckily the car park is on a slight slope and I bumped the bike on the first attempt downhill. Managed to get home without stalling.

I checked with a volt meter and with all the lights on (spots and main) it read 12.20 when I turned off the spots which are leds and revved to 3000 the volts read 12.70 which seemed low still with the main beam on. I turned off all the lights and revved to 3000 and got a reading of 13.90. Does all this sound about right and my normally faithful bike just had a blip today?

I guess the test will be if it starts tomorrow morning and night time...

Jamie
 

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I would expect to see at least 13v with everything on and over 14v with everything off what voltage does your meter show with the ignition on and the bike not running
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys.

Battery was new a couple of months ago.

Dam thing started first time this morning.

I will check the voltage again tonight with everything off and engine not running. I charged my older battery last night and bought that to work with me just incase I have issues tonight. I better look for the receipt of when I purchased the battery.

So if its not charging correctly what could be the issue? Reg/Rec and if so would a pattern part of Ebay be a suitable replacement. Or do I have to buy original Honda?
 

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Sounds like the accessories i.e spots could be making to much of a demand on the battery / charging system. Best leave em switched off. You could fit a voltmeter to monitor what's going on while your on the fly. And make sure all the connections esp earths in the charging system are clean and tight.

I wouldn't buy any random cheap chinese tat aftermarket R/R from ebay as a possible replacement - If you get anything look at a FH marked MOSFET R/R.
 

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Start by checking the wires coming from the stator to the reg/rec. in particular the three pin connector, clean and make sure that this is making a good connection.
Next check the reg rec plug for corrosion and connection.
Check the wires from battery to earth and starter.
once all those checks are done, you should go on to test the reg/rec at different speeds , idle, 3000 etc.
It could be the reg/rec they are a weak link.
If it is bad, think about changing it for a reliable Mosfet unit, these have a FH prefix and can be got from a lot of late model bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK I will check the mentioned items. Thanks.

Out of interest, as I have a history of buying parts for various things that don't fit or work. Does anyone have a suggestion for a FH marked MOSFET R/R that will be a direct fit? At least then, if I need I can buy the same one and know it will work. If they are not too expensive may even be worth me having a spare one or just changing anyway to add more reliability? Mine is 20 years old now.
 

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You are going to need to do a little work to get one to fit, they use a different plug type to the shunt type which is what you have linked.
The model R88 is the equivalent to the Shindengen FH012 but they can be bought much more cheaply if you look around ebay and the like.
I have bought a couple of the big finned FH011 which I cut down to fit in available space.
Eastern beaver sell the wiring kits and they are pretty much plug and play, if you can't solder or crimp take the bike to an autoelectrician to do the job for you.
Once you fit this reg you won't have to worry again about failing regulators, I have seen very few of these go in comparison to the old shunt type versions which were common until the early 2000's
The new wiring will also allow a degree of confidence and if you feel so inclined you can also run a bigger stator from a Deauville or NTV to give you a useful boost in power compared to the stock 180w Dommie version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks again guys, the bike seems to be behaving well at the moment. I'm going to buy a volt meter to hook up and check the charge while on the move. I guess over the next few weeks I will look at replacing the reg/rec and sorting that. It would also be good to get a better stator as well as I will be adding heated grips for next winter. I must admit much of this is above me but feel I could handle it as long as I buy the correct bits.

Bounder have you done this conversion on your bike?
 

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It will run heated grips with the stock stator :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Funny thing is the dam thing has been so reliable since I have had it. Only the other time the battery died on my had been the only issue. I cant really fault the bike. Every day getting me to work on it had been a pleasure.
 
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