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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I discovered why my @ was stalling on full lefthand lock - its the choke cable for some reason. I disconnected it and it stopped the stalling, its also meant I can get a more level tick-over so good news all round, but, I want the choke to work as it should - I dont use it to start the bike 99% of the time but at present I still can by just pulling on the 'nipple' then letting it go when its running.

Thing is all that seems wrong is the cable is too tight - the adjuster just in-front of the bars is fully screwed in, so my question is - is there any adjustment at the carb - the haynes is incredibly vauge with the choke and gives no idea if you can do anything with the carb end other than disconnect it........

Then its just a case of balancing the carbs, changing the plugs, etc etc....

Cheers guys

Bri
 

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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
:D No takers then?
 

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21st Century Schizoid Man
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2,428 Posts
Yeah, I was expecting you to get loads of replies on this :)
I subscribed to your thread because I think for the first time, mine is starting to give grief - bike's started to cut out after it's been running for a few minutes and then is difficult to re-start :(
So hang in there - they'll be along in a min won't they? :D
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,040 Posts
No adjustment at the carb. There is a setting for the cable adjustment in the genuine manual. You adjust the cable before fitting to the carbs and have to measure the plungers distance past the end of the outer cable. I suspect your cable is jamming somewhere rather than badly adjusted. I gave up and got rid of the choke system altogether, although I've got a new cable and the original chokes if I'm really (and I mean really really) desperate.
 

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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mmmm, Cheers Yen, I was beginning to go down that route myself - the cable is free and well lubed at the lever end so I'm suspecting it must be the carb end sticking in the bore - just when I thought it was a problem I was managing to avoid! Might have to take the old girl to bits at the weekend and see what i can find.....

Strange thing is, its only come on recently and as a result of me 'tidying' the cables for the heated grips - I originaly thought it must have been because it was wrapped up in the bundle of stuff so I took it all apart again and re-tied it all but it made no difference, thats what made me think to disconnect it......

Ho Hum.....
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,040 Posts
Mmmm, Cheers Yen, I was beginning to go down that route myself - the cable is free and well lubed at the lever end so I'm suspecting it must be the carb end sticking in the bore - just when I thought it was a problem I was managing to avoid! Might have to take the old girl to bits at the weekend and see what i can find.....

Strange thing is, its only come on recently and as a result of me 'tidying' the cables for the heated grips - I originaly thought it must have been because it was wrapped up in the bundle of stuff so I took it all apart again and re-tied it all but it made no difference, thats what made me think to disconnect it......

Ho Hum.....
I noticed when removing my cable that the joint where one cable becomes two is just a push fit. So one tug and the outers separate and the inner wire is exposed, resulting in your choke being on whilst the handlebar lever is in the off position. Try having a look at this joint.
 

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Premium Member
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1,346 Posts
I can't be too much help here but Stormforce8 told me when I got mine that there is a known problem with the @ choke and not to use it as it can get stuck in the open position. Luckily, down where we live it doesn't get that cold so just running it for a minute on slightly increased revs does the trick.

I'm sure he'll be along later today to give you the technical stuff.
 

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21st Century Schizoid Man
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2,428 Posts
I can't be too much help here but Stormforce8 told me when I got mine that there is a known problem with the @ choke and not to use it as it can get stuck in the open position. Luckily, down where we live it doesn't get that cold so just running it for a minute on slightly increased revs does the trick.

I'm sure he'll be along later today to give you the technical stuff.

Yeah, my trouble began after a few early morning near-to-zero degrees starts... :( I had a few weeks of the occasional blip on steady running and now difficulty starting and staying started for the first ten minutes. Flippin' nora!
 

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Wing Commander
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14,437 Posts
remove the cable, break open the outer case where it splits and fill the resultant cup with ACF50 and hag it up, go make a cup of tea and watch you tube, come back, fill it again and start to wiggle and pull and push. refill and have a coffee this time. repeat until the cable is completely free.
Refit cable.
I do not know how long this fix will last you but I did mine last July (after the choke made me break down in Italy) and have had no problems with it ever since.
 

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skeptical old git
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1,734 Posts
I think Yen is onto something.

If you look at where the sable splits from 1 into 2, you can see how [if you release the tension on the cable at the bar end] the cable can move out of position. There's a plastic cylinder that houses the, erm, widget that connects the cables.

This plastic cylinder is moulded on the bottom with recesses that the cable sleeves should fit into; if a sleeve becomes dislodged, it can end up sitting on the outer edge of the recess, which pulls the cable a few millimeters too tight - so there's lots of choke on that carb.

I once collected my AT from a main Honda dealer (!) and it ran like a dog when I started it up. The choke lever would barely move. Turns out when they'd removed the bars (AFAIR it was head bearings they'd done) and put them back on, they'd put slack in the choke cable and one or both of the cables sleeves had got lodged out of position. Fixed it in their car park :rolleyes: Maybe I should have timed myself and demanded a refund at 40 quid per hour plus VAT :D

When it's all together properly, applying gratuitous quantities (is there any other amount?) of gaffer tape should prevent it happening again.
 

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Complete Member
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3,904 Posts
I think Yen is onto something.

If you look at where the sable splits from 1 into 2, you can see how [if you release the tension on the cable at the bar end] the cable can move out of position. There's a plastic cylinder that houses the, erm, widget that connects the cables.

This plastic cylinder is moulded on the bottom with recesses that the cable sleeves should fit into; if a sleeve becomes dislodged, it can end up sitting on the outer edge of the recess, which pulls the cable a few millimeters too tight - so there's lots of choke on that carb.

I once collected my AT from a main Honda dealer (!) and it ran like a dog when I started it up. The choke lever would barely move. Turns out when they'd removed the bars (AFAIR it was head bearings they'd done) and put them back on, they'd put slack in the choke cable and one or both of the cables sleeves had got lodged out of position. Fixed it in their car park :rolleyes: Maybe I should have timed myself and demanded a refund at 40 quid per hour plus VAT :D

When it's all together properly, applying gratuitous quantities (is there any other amount?) of gaffer tape should prevent it happening again.
Sounds good to me and I will have to give it a go on mine when the DIY stops:(:rolleyes:

However, please note that the technical term "widget" is an Americanism which should obviously be avoided, the correct UK term is I believe "dooberry" :D
 

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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Its actually 'doobery-ferkin'.

Doobery is a colloquialism.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,040 Posts
You're both wrong, the correct term is a 'wossname'.
 

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skeptical old git
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1,734 Posts
You're both wrong, the correct term is a 'wossname'.
in this application, more commonly referred to as
f**** b***** son of a b****** b****** b****** wossthef****name

:banghead: :angryfire: :angryfire: :angry5: :protest: :angry6: :cussing: :sad2: :violent1: :violent3:
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
Joined
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6,040 Posts
in this application, more commonly referred to as
f**** b***** son of a b****** b****** b****** wossthef****name

:banghead: :angryfire: :angryfire: :angry5: :protest: :angry6: :cussing: :sad2: :violent1: :violent3:
I haven't got time to shout all that.....I'm a busy man!
 

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Complete Member
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3,904 Posts
in this application, more commonly referred to as
f**** b***** son of a b****** b****** b****** wossthef****name

:banghead: :angryfire: :angryfire: :angry5: :protest: :angry6: :cussing: :sad2: :violent1: :violent3:
No, No, that's what you call it when you drop it down behind the bashplate

And it's not a "wossername" either, that's a person not an object, as in "yer know, wossername, offa the telly"
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
Joined
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6,040 Posts
No, No, that's what you call it when you drop it down behind the bashplate

And it's not a "wossername" either, that's a person not an object, as in "yer know, wossername, offa the telly"
Nonsense, I clearly remember my mate's old father saying the following,

Oi Steve, can you take me to town, we need to buy a wossname for young John.

Help me out here dad, what's a wossname

Oh you know, errrr, it's got to be a red one, he don't like the other sort.

His dad's nickname, yup it's 'Wossname'
 

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Registered
Joined
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398 Posts
You're both wrong, the correct term is a 'wossname'.
This is proly true on that Island,on this one there called thing-a-me-gig or in another dialect yoke-e-ma-bob or the inner city dialect commonly called
wat-ya-ma-call-it :D

Tony K
 

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Last of the Minoans
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1,503 Posts
There is a variant of the doobery - when there is a spring attached it's known as a 'pingfvckit'.
 
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