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Discussion Starter #1
When remvoing the choke, should I just un screw those plastic guides and pull the entire cable and plunger out? than leave it "empty" and just use a brake pad mounting pin cover as a plug?
that simple?
 

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I believe you have to seperate the spring and plunger/needle from the cable, and then put them back into the carb and hold in place with the pin cover. I've done it, but years ago so I can't exactly remember. It is a little fiddle but, well, I managed. :D

If you just put the pin cover in I think you would be on full choke all the time.
 

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Nexus 6
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Yep, Chronyx's failing memory is spot on - you need to put the springs and plungers back in under the pad pin cap that then puts pressure on the spring to hold the choke plungers in the off position.............
 
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My @ on starting didnt sound quite right and on running at low revs was really lumpy and more vibrations than there should be so decided to change all the plugs and look at the choke. On mine the rubber cover had moved away from the plastic fixing and that ment choke was on slightly and when I looked at the plugs from the front cylinder they were black the rear cylinder was fine. The job itself is quite easy but be careful with the spring its small and getting the small blanking screw in is fiddly.
My @is now running better than it ever as done and I bet fuel consumption is miles better lol
I have to say what an excellent forum this is without it I would never have been able to sort my @ to how it is now.
 

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Space Emperor
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I have to say what an excellent forum this is without it I would never have been able to sort my @ to how it is now.
You're absolutely right ... I'm convinced that I would have sold my AT as scrap metal, if it hadn't been for the helpful people here :thumbright:
 

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Space Emperor
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My AT is running really rough at around 3500rpm ... feels like small taps on the brake. Checked the front plugs last night, and they were pitch black again (changed them last weekend)

Are there any other possibilities for these symptoms than the bleedin' choke? I checked the rubber collars from carbs to cylinder, and they look fine as far as I can tell ...

Just want to be prepared for this weekend, so I can check everything while having the tank off.

Brake pad mounting pin cover? Is this the one?
140.jpg
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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My AT is running really rough at around 3500rpm ... feels like small taps on the brake. Checked the front plugs last night, and they were pitch black again (changed them last weekend)

Are there any other possibilities for these symptoms than the bleedin' choke? I checked the rubber collars from carbs to cylinder, and they look fine as far as I can tell ...

Just want to be prepared for this weekend, so I can check everything while having the tank off.

Brake pad mounting pin cover? Is this the one?
View attachment 13023
That's the one. I am concerned at how clean your bike is and why I can see a cast wheel rather than spokes???
 

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Space Emperor
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That's the one. I am concerned at how clean your bike is and why I can see a cast wheel rather than spokes???
Haha, don't be Yen ... Just found a random picture on Google :)
 

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Space Emperor
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That's the one. I am concerned at how clean your bike is and why I can see a cast wheel rather than spokes???
Haha, don't be Yen ... Just found a random picture on Google :)

Btw, do the carbs need to come off to remove the choke?
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Haha, don't be Yen ... Just found a random picture on Google :)

Btw, do the carbs need to come off to remove the choke?
No, you can do it just by taking the tank and maybe the airbox off.
 
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Space Emperor
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618 Posts
A BIG THANKS to all you lads for taking the time to give advice about this!!!! :thumbright:

I just removed the nasty evil choke unit, and IT'S A TOTALLY DIFFERENT BIKE!!!! No more stuttering and hesitation, or uneven idle! It runs so smooth now, and the worry in the back of my head, of thumping around on one cylinder, or even pushing the big girl around in the mountains, is completely gone!

All in all, it was quite easy. I had to sit down and do a lot of swearing at one point, when the spring fell into the dreaded belly-pan-pitt-of-hell! (Third time I drop something in there this week alone!)

There were a few surprises on the way to removing it ... firstly, the plastic thingy where the cable split in 2 was broken, so the cable going to the front cylinder didn't come out straight, which cause it to tension up the cable, and create even more friction for the cable.

Secondly, the plastic bolt thingy (sorry for all the technically advanced terms) on the back cylinder was made of BRASS! This makes me believe that there's another Honda model that has the exact same choke design, only in metal instead of plastic!

I put some threadlocker on the brake caliper pin cover, as it didn't feel right to tighten it too much. I hope this wasn't a bad move ...

Here's a few pics:

choke_1.jpg choke_3.jpg choke_2.jpg choke_4.jpg
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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I don't think that is a standard spring (been a long time since I've seen one). That and the brass bit makes me believe a previous owner has had problems with the choke before and had that made up by a workshop somewhere.
 

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Space Emperor
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The brass thingy was actually on the back cylinder carb, which, as far as I can gather, rarely have problems like that ... If it was custom made, I'm sure they wouldn't have takes so much care on shaping the outside so precisely ... this is after all Vietnam :)

I'll ask my mechanic next time I see him, if he recognize the thingy. Could perhaps be interesting for some people to know ...
 

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BLUE 1999 xrv750x
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Just blanked up my choke plungers on saturday - bike was running really badly up until now - and now is as sweet as a nut - piece of cake- i was daunted by doing it - but its easier than changing the cable over by far...

kept everything for re-fit one day if needs be... very pleased.!!!
 

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How do your bikes start in the cold without a choke i was thinking of doing this mod myself but after it failed to start without it i decided it has to stay
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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How do your bikes start in the cold without a choke i was thinking of doing this mod myself but after it failed to start without it i decided it has to stay
Good condition sparkplugs and a good battery are a must. Then I use two hand to start the bike. One to press the starter button (left) the other (right) to open the throttle when required. I press the starter button with no throttle applied at all, it usually catches and fires instantly, then the right hand just has to gently open the throttle to keep the engine running, I tend to ride off straight away, I'm not a warmer upper. This works definitely down to minus 4 after an overnight camp at a rally last year during that hideous winter.
 

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Space Emperor
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Seems that after removing the choke, the bike runs really well, but now I can hear the front cylinder making a bit more of a hammering sound, and more vibration than before ...

Why would this be? Carb adjustment needed? And how to do this?
 

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Very Enthusiastic Member
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391 Posts
my choke is playing up again (as it does).. what is the weak part of it? Is it the spring or the cable ? I am going to renew my cable and just try and not use the choke at all.. if it out of nowhere develops the problem again I think I'll blank them.
 
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