can any one help because i need a Honda part from Honda they say you cant order these studs cos they got no part number, why not, that confuses me, maybe time for xrv shop find some and put a number on it for the shop and i can order from this more reputable shop. thanks for any help.
thanks Ben do you no what metal it is the studs are made from because i don't want to put anything stronger than the metal that the forks are made from cos (i will shear the threads in the forks) and my Honda dealer don't seem to like me cos all i want is advise and parts so i can do the work myself, no money for the mechanics you-no.
The studs will be steel - zinc plated, don't get stainless they're not the same strength (bit more stretchy than you want and not so good in shear), probably M6 either get proper studs (with an unthreaded section) or a length of screwed rod and cut your own, only problem with that is you need to paint the ends to stop rusting.
screw the studs in by hand with a tiny drop of Loctite "threadlock" (NOT Studlock) and then a nip up with a pair of pliers or moles, that's all they'll need. Don't overtighten, once you tighten the nut on the end the stud will be in tension and this will hold it in place, won't vibe loose especially if you remember to use the threadlock
thanks Dilbert, that just helped me out of another (the next problem) cos the senior mechanic said well get stainless threaded M8 and he can sell me the stud lock, DWANNNKR.:angry4:
the only reason i go to a dealer is to get original parts then he says if it got no part number i will have to order new forks cos the studs don't come out they are part of the forks,
disgust, tell me another.:angry4::angry4:
how am i supposed to get the proper studs if even Honda don't no they come out.
(Dave if you are reading this may be a little earner for the site to keep near to the original grade of stud, just to save
the forks threads.)
Wait for this , then he said it would be OK cos there's still three studs left to hold the thing in place. oh oh oh oh
(Dave again how about if when you map out good M.O.T places for motor bikes (good idea) why not we also approve of our locale Honda dealers and how fair you were treated). or ripped off when your on tour.:twisted::twisted::twisted:
THIS SITE IS THE BEST.:wav::wav::wav::wav:
I guess what he means is that Honda supply the forks with the studs fitted, they probably don't sell them seperately.
Lots of people get caught out by studlock it's called that because it's meant to lock studs in permanently, threadlock or the less common screwlock are intended for parts that you may want to take apart, lesson for the day is that you don't just use studlock because it's a stud !
The load should have been calculated on only two of the studs, so in theory you man is Ok in saying three's alright, however theory and practice are not always the same thing.
You possibly would be Ok with stainless, and you would avoid the stud rusting, but is it worth the risk, get a stud out and take it to your nearest engineers supplier or hardware shop and always fit nyloc or aerotite nuts.
Charging you for four drops of Loctite is a bit much, they'll be charging for the paper towels they wipe their hands on next!
Get the Honda Parts ma to look at the parts fiche for Transalp - the studs are listed correctly with part number - I think they are about 70p each. I almost passed out whe I was told you can only buy the fork leg complete - then I thought about it a bit more and thought "load of b*llsh*t" there is no way Honda are going to do anything other than drill and tap the fork leg casting.
Sure enough - two minutes with the molegrips had the broken stud removed.
thanks for that info about the translap studs, would anyone have the parts fiche for the translap forks cos when he sees me walk in he tries to find a job to do. thanks again everyone for all this advice.:thumbleft::thumbleft:
i am getting so close now to getting this stud sorted,
when i look at the microfiche for xl600v 87-88 then look at 89-96 /97-99 /and up to 2000 and the number for this stud changes each time,
before i go and order this part does anyone no if the size or any thing else changes because i'm not to sure which year would fit my @.
probably no change at tall but i must check with my universal master mechanics first, (thats you lot) before i scrape the bottom of the knowledge barrel (the dealer)
The number will change with each new model, because we engineers like to keep the plebs on their toes and as confused as possible, the fact appears to be that they're all the same item, so go buy one and try it, or like I said at the beginning take one to an engineers shop, slap it on the counter and say something original like "I want that one" :confused1:
thanks again, I'm no longer confused, the stud from the rd 04 fits perfectly just wish the mechanic of 30 years of experience could help as much as you lot, once again (BRILLIANT SITE).:salute::salute::salute::salute::salute:
We all like to talk about how much experience we've had, I've been a Mechanical Engineer fo 32 years now, but I still haven't a clue on engine diagnostics, there are guys on here who work with computers all day, but from riding experience and having a go have far more maintenance experience than me, 30 years experience don't mean squat, unless it's the right experience and based on a level of intelligence often sadly lacking in mechanics.
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