Unless it's engine is radically different to the earlier models, make sure the engine is cooled down and then you can simply unscrew the clamp on the hose to the water pump, pull the hose off and allow the coolant to run out. This is environmentally hazardous and is meant to be collected and disposed of at an approved depot. I change mine during major services when I have the fairing, tank and air filter already off. While I have access to the top of the engine I disconnect the hoses from the thermostat housing that go to the top of each cylinder then use a garden hose to flush fresh water through until it runs clear from the hose and water pump at the bottom of the engine.
being a lazy git, and not wanting to remove my engine bars & belly pan, i marked the center of the coolant drain screw onto the bottom of the belly pan, and cut out a 32mm hole with a tank cutter, perfect access , so then only had to remove the R/H side panel to get to the rad cap !!
I've been asked about coolant mix while working in a dealership.
The silkolene pro cool(blue) and the mag cool (pink) will mix happily enough for the purpose of cooling. But will produce a manky brown colour.
That goes for pretty much all makes out there.
Just make sure you are using silicate free coolant designed for aluminium engines or the internal waterways will start to corrode. And flush whenever changing.
Other than that you're good to go. Any silicate free car stuff is also fine, just check for alu engines. Don't be taken in by the dealers bull about using the motorbike specific stuff.
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