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My TA is almost always running on very low temperature, however at an incident this summer when it was a total halt in traffic (in a tunnel) the temperature rose quite a lot (more than half on the scale) and i did not notice if the fan started running. But, for those with similar bikes, what is normal running temperature. If this is abnormal, what is likely to be wrong ? I am wondering if i need to replace any cooling sensors/switches/components ?

ta' TA people.
 

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My @ is just the same. Runs at the lower end of the scale normally, only rising if I get stuck in slow traffic, for example coming off a motorway straight into a town (doing this daily at present so I've been watching). The fan doesn't come on until the temperature gets about 3/4 up the gauge, when it stops any further rise. Seems normal!
 

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Thanks, that is a relief for the expence account. I am considering adding a override switch to the fan, so that I can force it to start if i feel the need too. Does this seem a good idea for a nice to have feature ..?
 

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When I got mine I left it on tickover, took ages for the fan to come on, much higher than normal running temp. As soon as the fan came on the temp stopped rising. I guess yours is fine.

Rick
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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My @ is just the same. Runs at the lower end of the scale normally, only rising if I get stuck in slow traffic, for example coming off a motorway straight into a town (doing this daily at present so I've been watching). The fan doesn't come on until the temperature gets about 3/4 up the gauge, when it stops any further rise. Seems normal!
Sounds about right, although put three ATs or TAs together and they will all set the fan off at slightly different needle readings. When the fan comes on you'll know it for definite if anyone isn't sure if it's come on or not, it's reasonably noisy and the needle will take a dive downwards quite quickly.
 

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"and another thing!"
Just thought I'd add, the bike has never boiled. In 9 years, the only time it has used water was when one of the moulded rubber bits wore a hole in one of the rads and it peed out in a little hot jet.
No prob I thought, just solder it up - WRONG! - the rads are aluminium. Fixed with some epoxy putty, then made sure that the rubber wasn't rubbing. Still not sure what those rubber bits are for anyway, they aren't keeping any muck out or pointing the air in!
 
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I am considering adding a override switch to the fan, so that I can force it to start if i feel the need too. Does this seem a good idea for a nice to have feature ..?
No, it doesn't. Why would you want to turn the fan on yourself when the bike already has a system that does it for you? What would make you "feel the need" to put the fan on? Honda know much better than you when the fan is needed and they designed that knowledge into the bike.

If the thermo switch doesn't work (and nothing you've said suggests this to be the case) then replace it with a new one - don't go adding extra wires to create a pointless 'feature'. Although if you really want to, it's your bike.....:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Point taken sproggy, I'm in that "what to fix/destroy thistime mode" ..:drunken:
 
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Point taken sproggy, I'm in that "what to fix/destroy thistime mode" ..:drunken:
Hmm, that coming from idefix, "The DIY Enthusiast".......if you like to have something that always needs working on or fixing you might have made a mistake buying a TA - they're just too reliable ;)
 

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Idefix just leave the bike ticking over on the stand and wait a bit...the temp gauge will rise and then the fan should come on automatically...

Then you can relax knowing all is well.....:)
 
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As with any watercooled bikes most of the cooling is done when you are moving. This pushes a lot more air than the fan could ever do throught the rad.

When stuck in traffic you don't have the air-flow hence the temp rises, upto a point where the fan kicks in, once at this point the temp should never go any higher unless you have a problem with the system (air pocket, wrong coolant/water mix)

Something that really does get people confused is ANTI-FREEZE and they believe that during the summer they don;t need any, well the anti-freeze also acts as a coolant in summer, raising the boiling point and increasing the wetness of the water thus allowing more heat to be diverted from the engine.

Kymmy
 
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Something that really does get people confused is ANTI-FREEZE and they believe that during the summer they don;t need any, well the anti-freeze also acts as a coolant in summer, raising the boiling point and increasing the wetness of the water thus allowing more heat to be diverted from the engine.
Also, perhaps more importantly, antifreeze contains anti-corrosion additives that prevent the waterways (particularly in alloy castings) corroding and/or looking like the inside of a kettle that's overdue a de-scale (helped greatly by using de-ionised water, not tap water, to dilute the antifreeze). This, I believe, is the main reason for using it all year round rather than just when it's cold. The boiling point is raised mainly as a result of the system being pressurised (that's why you should never remove the radiator cap when the engine's hot - the drop in pressure can cause the water to boil instantly. I know, I've seen it happen......OK, I caused it to happen.........:oops: ) - I've not heard before that the anti-freeze has any significant effect on boiling point?

Oh, as for increasing the wetness, that's why a system that doesn't leak when filled with water can leak when filled with antifreeze - it's a very effective leak-seeker.
 
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