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Discussion Starter #1
I have been having charging issues for a year with 2 replacement batteries. I was just about to order a new rectifier but thought I would charge the battery and go thru the electrical flowchart again to be sure when I found a broken wire.
the arrow points at the wire and I have put an red x where i think it goes.
to the right is the round rectifier connector and the red thing in the background is the positive lead from the battery that is disconnected.

can anyone please tell me if this is where it goes

thanks in advance

sorry pics arent great photography not my strong point



 

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can anyone please tell me if this is where it goes
Sorry...I can't resist. :)

It goes to the end of another wire that is broken just like the one in your pic.

X marks the spot...so have you looked into that connector for evidence?

Seriously though...all wires that honda originally installed on your bike are colour coded if you look at a wiring diagram. That broken wire is black...which on an AT is generally part of the output to the turn signal, brake lites, tail lite, trip meter lites and horn circuit.

If all those lites work and the fuse is good for that circuit then it might be something else and maybe something aftermarket such as heated grips that someone else installed.

You never mentioned the year and model of your AT.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
My bikes a 95 rd07 s.
I have not really examined the wire and connector as electrics are not my strong point. I was hoping that someone would look at the pic and say something like "that wire is for the flux capaciter and if you push it into the connector then all the worlds woes and your electrical problems will be solved"
I have a spyball on the bike that I have not got the fob for and I assume doesn't work so maybe the wire is from that all other extras like heated grips etc I have fitted on the other side of the bike. I did the flow chart electrical test a month or so ago when I put a new battery on and it read as ok so assumed it was the previous battery that was a dud after lasting 9 months. But whilst riding the other day I had a flat battery, so bumped the biked and whilst riding noticed that the dash indicator was really dim so turned lights off and the indicator dash light was flashing as normal. I blew a bulb about three months ago so it's screaming rectifier but don't want to fork out for one to find it's something silly like a broken wire or a loose earth or something as I stripped the bike down and serviced and changed lots of bits a few months ago
 

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My bikes a 95 rd07 s.
I have not really examined the wire and connector as electrics are not my strong point. I was hoping that someone would look at the pic and say something like "that wire is for the flux capaciter and if you push it into the connector then all the worlds woes and your electrical problems will be solved"
I have a spyball on the bike that I have not got the fob for and I assume doesn't work so maybe the wire is from that all other extras like heated grips etc I have fitted on the other side of the bike. I did the flow chart electrical test a month or so ago when I put a new battery on and it read as ok so assumed it was the previous battery that was a dud after lasting 9 months. But whilst riding the other day I had a flat battery, so bumped the biked and whilst riding noticed that the dash indicator was really dim so turned lights off and the indicator dash light was flashing as normal. I blew a bulb about three months ago so it's screaming rectifier but don't want to fork out for one to find it's something silly like a broken wire or a loose earth or something as I stripped the bike down and serviced and changed lots of bits a few months ago
At some point you need to look into that connector where X marks the spot. It looks pretty straight forward to me...no? You can lead a horse to water but....:confused::confused:. It's simply not "push the wire in the connector" and it's fixed. Dig deeper dude.

If you want to know the status of your R/R then you need to measure the output voltage across the battery with the engine running at various RPM's? It should be no more than 14.7 volts.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
As I say I have a spyball but no fob and am worried that if I find the wire is from that connector and it's from the spyball and I reconnect it, I could immobilse my bike. As I said electrics not my strong point. I tested when put new battery and all the outputs where fine but obviously I was doing it wrong, I will reconnect the battery tomorrow and do the tests again and post them. Hopefully yourself or someone else will help me diagnose the problems. I would take to a garage but the Spanish have not given me any faith over the last thirteen years.
 

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As I say I have a spyball but no fob and am worried that if I find the wire is from that connector and it's from the spyball and I reconnect it, I could immobilse my bike. As I said electrics not my strong point. I tested when put new battery and all the outputs where fine but obviously I was doing it wrong, I will reconnect the battery tomorrow and do the tests again and post them. Hopefully yourself or someone else will help me diagnose the problems. I would take to a garage but the Spanish have not given me any faith over the last thirteen years.
Sure. Keep us posted as we're here to help. Re-connect that wire first...and if your bike is immobilized...well then. That connector looks nothing like whats on my RDO7A.
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
right ok battery charged and put back on bike.

firstly I traced the broken wire back to the spyball, so looks like its been snipped to turn it off.

right reading from battery with engine off 12.78v

reading from battery with engine on 2500rpm 13.8

reading from battery with engine at 5000rpm 14.58

turned lights on

reading from battery on tickover drops to 12.20 and stays there

reading from battery at 2500 rpm 12.65

reading from battery at 5000rpm 12.83

according to http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf the circuit is fine, but it can't be as i have killed one battery after only 8- months and the second battery is flat after a month or so. I went for a 70mile ride last tuesday and then this week the battery is flat and when i say flat I mean I got one click from the starter and then nothing.

but surely if it was charging correctly then the voltages should be nearly the same with lights on or off!!

Please somebody stop me from tearing my hair out.

Cheers
 

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right ok battery charged and put back on bike.

firstly I traced the broken wire back to the spyball, so looks like its been snipped to turn it off.

right reading from battery with engine off 12.78v

reading from battery with engine on 2500rpm 13.8

reading from battery with engine at 5000rpm 14.58

turned lights on

reading from battery on tickover drops to 12.20 and stays there

reading from battery at 2500 rpm 12.65

reading from battery at 5000rpm 12.83

according to http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf the circuit is fine, but it can't be as i have killed one battery after only 8- months and the second battery is flat after a month or so. I went for a 70mile ride last tuesday and then this week the battery is flat and when i say flat I mean I got one click from the starter and then nothing.

but surely if it was charging correctly then the voltages should be nearly the same with lights on or off!!

Please somebody stop me from tearing my hair out.

Cheers
Good work with the meter. Yes, your charging circuit is healthy and all those numbers look good.
I agree that your batteries have been short lived and should last way longer than that with a healthy charging system...unless the batteries were never charged properly when new out of the box...or you have some sort of parasite draw draining the battery slowly with the ignition off.

Having said that, your immobolizer is no longer in the picture. Do you have anything wired 'hot' to the battery?
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Last July I found myself with aflat battery so bought a new one. Then over the winter the battery was losing charge. The come February I had to replace again. I removed all connections to the battery apart from the neg and plus and after a month have a flat again. Wish I could take it to someone who new what he wa doing but alas not possible here. I might buy a second hand rectifier just as a tester cos a flat in four weeks with a ride out every week is not right. Thanks for your input
 

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just a thought.

If your heated grips are ran directly off the battery. you may have left them on once or twice after you parked up. Draining the battery completey like this will affect the length of its life as they are not designed to drain completely. only to start the engine.
 

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just a couple of thoughts :-
1 have you ever replaced any bulbs for higher wattage ones ( about 12 monyhs ago)?? this would take more power from the alternator hence less power for charging.
2 check lights any way for corrosion and damp.

good luck
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I removed the connection for the heated grips and 12v socket when I replaced the battery but still ended up with a flat battery. The only thing attached to the battery is the positive and negative terminals from the bike, thinking of buying a second hand rectifier to test it out.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
just a couple of thoughts :-
1 have you ever replaced any bulbs for higher wattage ones ( about 12 monyhs ago)?? this would take more power from the alternator hence less power for charging.
2 check lights any way for corrosion and damp.

good luck
No only replaced like for like couple of months ago when noticed a blown one, don't know howong it had beenblown for. I had whole front end off ten weeks ago as I replaced the headlight subframe and all looked fine
 
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