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Discussion Starter #1
Took the plunge & debaffled my SLR today

What a difference in sound, now it sounds like a big single should(poor man's KTM I guess:))

Will tackle the carb removal for rejetting next

Pictures tell the story, not the prettiest but who cares the sound is amazing!!









 

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That doesn't look so bad, I use a hole saw now so it looks really clean.
Wait till you get that 175 main jet in, you'll be amazed at the difference!
As discussed on this forum you should also remove the airbox snorkel and set the pilot screw at 3 or 3.5 turns out.
I've done several of these now and three of them started slipping the clutch after the baffles were pulled, the clutches were fine before so I take that as proof of the increased torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Bob
I couldnt manage to use a holesaw as I couldnt get the depth with the pipe in the way & I made no headway with a dremel trying to make the pipe shorter to give me access so I went with the multihole option & it got the desired effect anyway:)
I have a 170 jet ready to go in because I thought that was the correct one for the SLR & that 175 was for the Vigor just reading past threads on the subject
Anyway I'll try the 170 first & see how it goes. The pilot screw is already out sufficiently as I unscrewed it by 1 turn & tickover seems fine.
 

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Yes, thinking about it. I've done a couple of SLRs that wouldn't take a 175. Well see how the 170 goes, if you're not getting much effect from the last 1/8 of throttle on full chat then try the 175.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, thinking about it. I've done a couple of SLRs that wouldn't take a 175. Well see how the 170 goes, if you're not getting much effect from the last 1/8 of throttle on full chat then try the 175.
I fitted the 170 main jet today Bob & set the pilot screw to 3 turns out from seating. Have already removed the snorkel from the airbox. Boxed it all up & went for a test ride.

Wow & wow again, it pulls like a train, brilliant torque between 40 & 70 MPH which is all I really want but I did give it full throttle & pulled away up to 90 before I ran out of road. Tickover is much better and more positive also, I can set the throttle stop down real slow if I want to, probably not the best thing to do on a permanent basis but just wanted to see how low it would go. No idea what revs at tickover but brought it up a little for a less lumpy tickover speed. No cutting out at lights etc. so I guess the 170 is working fine.

Now I just got to get new chain & sprockets as they are needed & will try the 15 tooth up front as I guess thats the best way to go.

Thanks for all your help.
 

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What would happen if you de baffled and left carb standard ?


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You'll get less power and the engine will run too hot. I did an experiment when I debaffled the last one and went out to test it before I fitted different jets. Normally the bike runs about 95-100C on the oil temperature dipstick, but this time it shot straight up to 120-125C so I limped home and fitted the jets.
Continued riding like that would at best shorten the life of the engine and at worst result in a seizure or a melted piston.
 

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I fitted the 170 main jet today Bob & set the pilot screw to 3 turns out from seating. Have already removed the snorkel from the airbox. Boxed it all up & went for a test ride.

Wow & wow again, it pulls like a train, brilliant torque between 40 & 70 MPH which is all I really want but I did give it full throttle & pulled away up to 90 before I ran out of road. Tickover is much better and more positive also, I can set the throttle stop down real slow if I want to, probably not the best thing to do on a permanent basis but just wanted to see how low it would go. No idea what revs at tickover but brought it up a little for a less lumpy tickover speed. No cutting out at lights etc. so I guess the 170 is working fine.

Now I just got to get new chain & sprockets as they are needed & will try the 15 tooth up front as I guess thats the best way to go.

Thanks for all your help.
Sounds like you've nailed it there! With the bigger front sprocket fitted I've seen 103MPH on my Vigor (GPS verified) when tucked in, riding on the flat. Not that I'm suggesting it's a good idea - I'll certainly never do it again - but that's 10MPH more than the stock bike will do.
 

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You'll get less power and the engine will run too hot. I did an experiment when I debaffled the last one and went out to test it before I fitted different jets. Normally the bike runs about 95-100C on the oil temperature dipstick, but this time it shot straight up to 120-125C so I limped home and fitted the jets.
Continued riding like that would at best shorten the life of the engine and at worst result in a seizure or a melted piston.
Thanks was only wondering :)


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Bob
What is the advantge of increasing front sprocket size over decreasing rear on the FX?
There does not seem to be much clearnace in the fronmt sprocket housing without compromising the chain saver.
 

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The effect on the gearing is the same of course, but a larger front sprocket is easier and quicker to fit and doesn't necessitate needing to shorten the chain. The chain saver is of very limited value I feel, I can't see that little strip doing a lot if the chain snaps and it's only necessary to grind it down a little for the 15T front. I haven't had a chain snap since the pre-oring days and I'd never let a chain get to the point where snappage was a risk anyway.
Another beneficial effect of the 15T front is reduced chain wear, the larger diameter front sprocket reduces the angle through which the chain rollers are turned when traveling around the sprocket.
 

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Hello

I have just got an bog standard SLR 3 weeks ago with under 5k miles and was still on the original tyres.
I am slightly disappointed with the low down torque when compared to my 38 year old XT 500.
I have ordered 170 and 175 jets and intend on doing Bobn's exhaust mod next weekend and hope this will resolve the issue.
The exhaust is in excellent condition and I am keen to use a hole saw to get the neatest finish. Can you please tell me how you centred the hole saw and stopped from wandering . I was thinking of wedging a timber plug in the baffle and drilling a pilot hole , however the baffle is angled slightly downwards. I would be grateful for any ideas. What size hole saw is best?

Also will the chain need replacing when I change the front sprocket to 15T or is there enough slack in the standard chain?

Sorry for all the questions but I need more low end grunt.

Thanks Ray
 

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I just go at it with a 38mm hole saw, the output tube helps to centre the cutting face. Once it starts cutting it will stay on course.
I've never had to change the chain when fitting a 15T front.
The mods will give more torque across the range and greatly improve the low down smoothness and pull, but these are an oversquare engine so there is a limit on how hard you can work it at very low RPM. You should find the mods give you a boost on the top end at WOT too.
Some of the SLR and FXs I've done have started slipping the clutch immediately after the mods, where there was no slip previously, I take that as proof of increase in torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hello

I have just got an bog standard SLR 3 weeks ago with under 5k miles and was still on the original tyres.
I am slightly disappointed with the low down torque when compared to my 38 year old XT 500.
I have ordered 170 and 175 jets and intend on doing Bobn's exhaust mod next weekend and hope this will resolve the issue.
The exhaust is in excellent condition and I am keen to use a hole saw to get the neatest finish. Can you please tell me how you centred the hole saw and stopped from wandering . I was thinking of wedging a timber plug in the baffle and drilling a pilot hole , however the baffle is angled slightly downwards. I would be grateful for any ideas. What size hole saw is best?

Also will the chain need replacing when I change the front sprocket to 15T or is there enough slack in the standard chain?

Sorry for all the questions but I need more low end grunt.

Thanks Ray
Hi Ray

I encountered the same problem with a holesaw & couyldn't overcome it regarding getting it centered as my saw didn't have enough depth to overcome the length of the little tailpipe & I couldnt manage to cut the little tailpipe using a dremel so I just drilled a series small holes all around the tailpipe.
I found it a bit of a struggle getting the baffles to loosen at the inner end but after much jiggling I managed to remove them. I cleaned up the ragged edges with a tapered stone in a standard electric drill.
Didn't turn out too bad!!



The exhaust note will be noticeably louder with the baffles removed so don't be surprised but I'm a fan of loud pipes anyway:D
Standard chain should be OK
 

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Re: That's more like it

Just an update on de-baffling the exhaust on my SLR.
Very happy with the mod .The bike is smoother, more tractable and a joy to ride.
It has taken me 2 weeks to adjust to the loud exhaust however, I have got used to it and now sounds 'normal', I just hope it passes the MOT in August!!

I've yet to change the front sprocket to 15T. I hope it does not affect the acceleration too much.

Thanks for you help

Ray
 

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Re: That's more like it

I've just had my SLR off the road for a few days for a bit of a strip down and clean up. I removed the saggy gators, sprayed the forks and changed the fork oil as well as spraying the top and bottom yokes. I replaced the steering head bearings with new tapered ones. I replace fittings all over the bike with stainless ones, remarkable difference. I also fitted a set of homemade engine bars complete with spotlights. IMG_20160101_140557298.jpg IMG_20160101_140549459.jpg IMG_20160101_155011456.jpg When I had the seat off I decided to remove the airbox snorkel and with the snorkel removed I decided I decided to remove the exhaust baffles, wow some note now. As per previous posts on this thread I will be putting in a 170 jet as soon as I get one. Looking forward to getting out on it for a spin.
 

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Re: That's more like it

Sweet job, those engine bars are really nice, wish I had the skill & equipment to manufacture those:thumbup:
 

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Re: That's more like it

great bit of work the crash bars are very tidy .
 
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