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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Was doing a routine check and found that the front axle holder was broken and the nuts on the studs were so loose that they could come off by hand.

Anyway as I do not have torque wrench I managed to snap 1 stud off and then was trying to put a temporary support plate which caused the other stud to snap. Now I have placed an ordered for the Axle holder and studs. Total cost £25.

Will fix on weekend. Its got 2 bolts I have bought some pipe clips for temporary use. I cant believe I was riding for God knows how long with broken holder.

Read somewhere that do not the bolts too much as it causes the holder to snap. Lately I am breaking everything I touch.

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Never had a problem with them myself. Maybe you just got unlucky with some metal fatigue or a little over zealous when tightening.
Glad to hear you're getting it sorted.
 

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Tranny's go back 30 years or more and this has never been a known issue, although over tightening always has.

Every part of every bike made, is designed with torque settings that need to be used. (he says ;)) I think we've all learnt or will learn that lesson. :)
 

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Will fix on weekend. Its got 2 bolts I have bought some pipe clips for temporary use.
This sounds as if you are intending to ride it in that condition: I hope I have misunderstood! :(

These clamps have a tightening sequence that should be followed; getting it wrong can sometimes stress the clamp to breaking point. When done correctly, there is still a small gap between the clamp and one of the two mating faces. I'm pretty sure it's the bottom one, as you tighten the top two studs first, then torque up the lower two. But please check the manual first, it's a while since I've done mine. If you over-tighten the second two, (eg to close the gap completely), you risk breaking the clamp. You might also 'neck' the studs, which won't be obvious and they might fail on you in use.

Apologies if you already know this, it just wasn't clear from the post.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I messed up with the torque settings but if you do a search on google many other riders have had similar problems. That's why I think its a design fault.
Will buy a torque wrench though. The parts are ready need to collect them soon. Ordered 2 studs also but not thinking I should have replaced the lot. I have put a temporary plate and also pipe clamp. If I have to ride it I will. Its much stronger than the axle holder. Lol
 

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I would be very careful with torque wrenches. The torque settings you see in manuals are for brand new parts with a proper professional calibrated wrench (metal weakens with age, so it's easy to shear something off). The kind of wrench you buy at Halfords etc for £20 are not as good as proper professional ones.

The first (and only) time I used a brand new torque wrench I cracked a sump, when tightening a sump plug (it broke nowhere near the recommended torque setting), a giant PITA.

I really think unless you are tightening internal engine components it's better to use some loctite and tighten by "feel".

I would never use a Torque Wrench again on an old bike.
 

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As above, no need for a torque wrench (IMO), just a gentle nip up, top first then lower - leaving a small gap between the lower end of the clamp and fork leg.

This design has been used on lots of Hondas, and problems only occur through incorrect tightening.
It's also amazing to see how many are assembled with the UP arrow pointing down (same with chain adjusters).....

Phil



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Well I messed up with the torque settings but if you do a search on google many other riders have had similar problems. That's why I think its a design fault.
Will buy a torque wrench though. The parts are ready need to collect them soon. Ordered 2 studs also but not thinking I should have replaced the lot. I have put a temporary plate and also pipe clamp. If I have to ride it I will. Its much stronger than the axle holder. Lol
it's a really low torque requirement for these nuts...unless you spend big bucks on a Norbar or similar, those generic wrenches with wide ranges you see all over fleabay won't be accurate...look for a bicycle specific torque wrench, rather than one for motorcycle...these are smaller and more accurate for light duty. Previous comments regarding torque for new parts are spot on, so I'd also replace the original flange nuts while I was at it.

You're right, it's not an ideal design from an engineering point of view (exposed steel studs into alloy, clamping an alloy bridge), but it seems to get the job done.

Good job you spotted the crack when you did....:thumbup:

You can buy HT metric studs and Aerotite nuts to suit...beware some of the cheap A2 stainless stuff
 

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I have put a temporary plate and also pipe clamp. If I have to ride it I will. Its much stronger than the axle holder. Lol
Perhaps I didn't misunderstand. If you ride it as it is in the photos, with the top half unclamped, you are riding with the most stressed area unsupported; most of the load is upwards and backwards, so those missing studs are critical. If you want to know how critical, try rolling the bike backwards down a slope, then watch the clamp while applying the front brake. If you still decide to ride it like that, and I'd strongly urge you not to, let's hope you don't have a shunt, as the noise you will hear is your insurance company washing their hands of you. I don't mean to be personal, but anyone knowingly riding a bike in that condition has more than a couple of studs loose......

FFS, for the cost and time to collect a couple of studs, are you really going to risk you, your bike and anyone who gets in the way?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lol.. nah it was a good temporary fix...i am good at doing temporary patch ups...to keep me going..anyway all fixed now..

e46ef70d-ab3c-47fa-90f0-b50167724a95.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah you spotted right mate I have more than a few studs loose..thats what my friends keep saying..:toothy8::toothy8::toothy8:
 
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