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Hill Rider
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3,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone else had the following symptom / problem when using DID's VX Gold & Black replacement for the V8 chain? Apparently this VX chain is all that is available from DID for the AT, even though the DID web site states that the VM2 spec chain is the one for the AT! Wemoto state that the VX is what they have for the AT, along with some more very expensive ones of course. David Silvers have the VM2 as part of there C&S kit @ £99 plus delivery and VAT, or £89 on it's own, plus delivery and VAT!

Confused? Read on . . . . .

After fitting said VX chain along with new Honda front sprocket (standard size) and a JTS standard sized rear sprocket, once applying drive on the move there is a grinding noise from the front sprocket area. It goes away when the throttle is closed. The gear selector was vibrating a lot as well when the grinding noise was apparent.
Back to the garage and upon removal of front sprocket cover I find impact witness marks on the metal insert that sits between the sprocket cover and the engine. This metal insert is, I believe, to help prevent damage to the engine should the drive chain snap. The metal strip sits in front of the middle of the chain, in the middle of the rollers. There don't seem to any other witness marks, either on the metal insert or on the sprocket cover.

I decided to measure the width of the new chains side plates and compare them to the V8 chain that I removed - the new chains side plates are 2mm wider than the old one!

So, has anyone else encountered this problem recently?

If so, what solution worked for you & your machine?

Cheers for reading this drivel,

Steve T

:cool:
 

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Premium Member
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6,922 Posts
If you've fitted a new genuine Honda front sprocket, as you have, the chain has not had time to "bed" into the rubber "cushion" moulded onto the sprocket. If you look at the old one, you should see a nice pattern of indentations around the outside circumference of the rubber moulding.

I suspect that the impact witness marks are caused by the chain not sitting deep enough in the sprocket, again because of the rubber moulding.

I can put up a picture of these "indentations" if it would help.



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geriatric
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2,474 Posts
I have had this, when you go up a tooth on the front on standard honda sprockets,The chain is slightly bigger than standard and did get a small amount of grinding,we also had it on GOG's as well. It is becaue the rubber on the sprocket takes little while to bed in. If you look at the chain on the sprocket it does not sit at the bottom of the tooth it sits slightly up untill the rubber beds in or softens up a bit. The only solution I found was to take the case saver (the piece of metal it makes contact with) and grind about 1/4 mm off the inside on the grinding wheel and it cured it.You may also find it is only making contact with a small area of the case saver surface,put some marker pen to it,ride it and the area making contact will be ink free and you can see where it is chafing,it may be because over the years the metal has distorted a little or got bent by contact or removal by previous owners.(mine got battered by mud getting stuck in there and stones etc) You may be able to re shape it with a little tap of the hammer.
It's not a serious problem,is quite common,don't panic.

(damn that lutin type fast)
 

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Hill Rider
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3,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I know the indentations your on about Lutin, and to try and rule out the new front sprocket, I re-fitted my used Honda sprocket as a test and the noise was still there, as were the witness marks (I'd filed the insert down a little to try and increase chain to insert clearance, so any witness marks would have been new ones).

It's got me puzzled. So puzzled that I e-mailed DID and have already received their reply - they don't know why the VX chain is recommended and have asked Japan for advice.

I'll get this thing sorted - I just don't want to have to keep shelling out money for parts that aren't fit for purpose (I'm a tight wad, as many will confirm :rolleyes: :D :thumbup: ). Neither do I want to use another brand of chain - DID have always lasted well on my bikes (except when they snap whilst off-roading :rolleyes:).

Anyone want to swap a barely used DID 525VX with 124 links for a V8 item? :D
 

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Hill Rider
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3,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The only solution I found was to take the case saver (the piece of metal it makes contact with) and grind about 1/4 mm off the inside on the grinding wheel and it cured it.
Done that - took a while with a hand file :rolleyes:. However, even after I'd taken enough metal off to prevent chain to case saver impact, there is still a horrible grinding noise. And the case saver is as flat as it should be, according to my straight edge.

It's not a serious problem,is quite common,don't panic.
I've had it happen before on a previous AT, but once the front sprocket rubber thingy had bedded in the noise stopped. However, even with the old front sprocket fitted (rubber not overly indented), the noise was still there.

I could, of course, run the bike without the front sprocket cover, but why should I? This thing should be fit for purpose straight out of the box (bedding in of new sprocket accepted).

Thanks for your thoughts on this people - Keep the input coming.

Steve T

:cool:
 

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Hill Rider
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3,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Lutin,

I did think of this as the bike was running, in gear, in the garage and the noise did seem to be coming from that area, but it's hard to tell, either by ear or by eye, once the engines off and the chains stopped.

The slider is worn from previous use - no suprise there then, what with just 18.5k miles on it, on what looks like the original C&S set :thumbup:. But there don't appear to be any freshly ground grooves appearing. Plus, it only really happens when applying power, not when decelerating.
Maybe I need to better inspect the lower slider, the one that protects the frame. Right, off to the garage with an oily rag and an inspection light . . . be back in a bit :thumbup:
 

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Hill Rider
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3,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well, after a fairly in depth inspection, this is what I found . . .


Don't know why I didn't spot it before!
No excessive wear of either swing arm slider or frame slider.

So, why is the plastic shroud around the gear selector shaft being worn away?

The chain was tensioned correctly (I even tensioned it by another notch on the adjuster, to see if that made a difference -it didn't :rolleyes:), so there shouldn't be to much slack to flap around!

Still stumped!
 
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Hill Rider
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3,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Lutin,

The lower run of the chain runs under that piece. With the new front sprocket fitted, the chain should be kept further away from that piece of plastic, to my way of thinking anyway.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,031 Posts
You haven't got the front sprocket on the wrong way round have you, I've seen this a few times, even on shop fitted chains? That might make the chain sit further out from the engine than it should.
 

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450 Posts
This is an interesting thread to me, as I'm awaiting delivery of a new DID C&S set from Wemoto (been waiting two weeks).

What I've done on both my bikes, is to remove the front sprocket plastic cover and just replace the metal guard. That way the engine casing still has protection and I'm able to keep the front sprocket recess clean and have instant access.

I know this mailing is not directly related to the subject of rubbing but doing this I find helps to visualize the area whilst the bike is running in gear on the centre stand.

Mike
 

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mmmm new chain set for the FT dispatched today from Wemoto..

ohh XLV 750 lives... out on a shake down run yesterday no overheating probs.. no chain either .. got a love shaft drive :thumb:
 

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Hill Rider
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3,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ohh XLV 750 lives... out on a shake down run yesterday no overheating probs.. no chain either .. got a love shaft drive :thumb:
Go away sexually :D
 

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Hill Rider
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Discussion Starter #18
Since my first post on this topic I have been in e-mail communication with DID. I now have the specifications of both the V8 and the VX chains and they tell me this:-

the VX pin diameter is 0.27mm thicker than the V8
the VX outerside plate width is 2mm wider than the V* (which matches my measurements)

When I add all these measurements up in my little grey matter box, I come up with the the idea that maybe, just maybe, thats why the VX chain is gouging lumps out of my front sprocket cover!

The very nice man thats dealing with my "query" also mentions the fact the the V8 is still in production in Japan, but not being sold in the UK cos now they've made the VX for us(which also costs more, but us Brits won't mind that, will we!). He goes on to say that he may be able to get me a V8 chain! Great this time, but what about the next time I need a chain that fits my bike and when everyone else thats got either an AT or a TA wants a V8 chain?
Hopefully this will spark a little common sense in the land of the rising sun and they'll start re-importing chains that fit the bikes we run & enjoy!

In the mean time I'm also trying to source a Regina chain for the AT - anyone out there tried this make of chain?

I'll keep the throng posted on progress with both DID & Regina.

TTFN,

Steve T

:cool:
 

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well my chain set has arrived its a VX... so yo reconI should not fit it Steve?
 

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well as my chain is a tad rattly and I have the shinny bits from Wemoto

set about the task this afternoon

the FT has a 16T aftermarket front sprocked on ( no rubber ) teethe quite hooked quite a bit of movement on it and the retaon tab.. ( this thing with two bolds is in two peices ??

chain and sprocket off and checked the splines .. phew zero wear look fine.. fitted the front sprocket and rolled the chain on.. 2 links too long??


checked the New rear .. its 46 so that could be why the chain is longer.. any way ent to fit it.. it wont FIT

original is a JTR 900 43 the new one a JTR 1332 46

so.. cut the 'extra' links off and fitted the chain using the old rear ( its not worn )

will contact Wemoto

so do I need to fit a new locking tab ? what the advantage of the 'rubber oem ' front?

what should the rear sprocked be?

as I now have a hew front sprocked and chain the bike is better than the worn stuff..

also fitted the plastic cover and it rubs !!!

may add some spacing washers behind to move it out..

I know I am bodging it , but this is the FT a 22 year old war horse.. I would be feeling a bit different if this was a 'new bike'..

bloody chains.. now you knoe why I love the XLV :D

will upload some pics....
 
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