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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks

I have no trouble starting my @ without choke but have been reading about the potential problems that they can cause, question is .........some people disable or disconnect them to prevent the problem happening, could I just not use it and prevent the problem from happening or does it have to be disconnected or disabled . If so what's the easiest way to do it ?

Thanks for any advice :thumbup:
 

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skeptical old git
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If your choke is fine at the moment, then you can just stop using it, and it will be fine.

But it's easy to forget and pull the lever, and even if you don't someone else might. If you've not been using it then you can bet it will seize up immediately.

I've disconnected the cable at the lever, which allows the free end to be pulled down right away from the bars, coiled up and wedged under the tank. Sounds a mess but actually it fit neatly. I originally did that as I ride all winter and was wary of getting stuck someone on a very cold day (in which case, I figured I could pull the cable out and tug at the end with some pliers or something). Never needed to do that, so next time I have the tank off I may disable it more permanently.
 

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Commuter Extraordinaire
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492 Posts
I've not used the choke for 10 years or so. It always starts, even in freezing temperatures, except for once after standing for a while when I had to warm up the carbs with a hairdryer whereupon it started! I daren't use the choke for fear of the plungers getting stuck. Never inadvertently flicked the lever (having said that, I probably will now). I suspect the mixture's a bit rich, as seems the case with RD07A's, but not overly so....still average around 55mpg and often get 225 miles before reserve.
 

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My choke was disabled by the previous owner, who was a mechanical engineer and fabricated some metal bungs that block the chokes off. I've never needed the choke either, even in minus temperatures and after standing for 3 weeks or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks very much for the replies guys, think I'll disconnect it then just to be on the safe side.

:thumbup:
 

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4,162 Posts
seem 07/07A are ok no choke.. but my RD03 and the RD04 engined RD03 both need choke :thumbup:
 

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My RD04 doesn't like easy starting without the choke, I've had a sticky rear pot choke for months but all it's really done is coke the plugs and dropped my MPG, and even then my AT still liked full choke from the lever to start easily and get the first minute of two idling - since I sorted it at the weekend it's the same, choke on - first or second hit on the button to start, then max. 2 mins idling with choke and I'm good for the rest of the day.

Tried a couple of cold starts without choke this week - 6 or 7 times on the button, then a good 3 to 4 minutes of hand on the throttle to maintain revs around 1200 before it's happy (the 'hands off' choke time is my 2 min smoke before riding and getting my lid on!).

Like Ray said - maybe an RD03 / RD04 thing due to the flat-sliders on the RD07 carbs being more efficient or something?

All things being equal, I'd rather have the option of chokes than not, I'm in the process of retro-fitting an OEM air box and snorkel to my RD04 as it didn't come with one, and I'll probably buy a new choke cable as I've followed Machiru's tip on the Henry vacuum springs so I'll be giving those a go as well :)

One thing that I have noticed though - overtightening of the weird double-bolt and screw arrangement for the nearside clutch lever / handguard / choke lever assembly really seems to **** the settings up badly! It seems to bind the choke lever, but I still can't see how that should affect the cable?

Ah, a mystery for another day I guess ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Forgot to say my @ 's a RD07A and have had no problem (up to now !) in starting without the choke. I 've disconnected it now but left the cable in place but just not attached to the choke lever.

Thanks for all the replies folks :smile:
 

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To add another option...

My RD04 always needs the choke in cooler weather. I had loads of trouble with it not disengaging. Turned out that the cable was badly seized in one of the sections at the top end - not helped by the constant off road use and the amount of mud and water it has to put up with...

I cut the cable short, getting rid of the troublesome section and looped the end with a piece of the old outer cable acting like a small handle and now have it as a direct pull under the left side of the tank.

Works perfectly now :blush:

Slidey
 

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Nexus 6
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1,320 Posts
Use the existing springs and plungers in the carbs, remove the cable completely and use some 'spare' brake caliper pad pin cover bung screws to screw into the carb over the plunger and spring - forever disabled choke, no un-used cables lying about the place, but its reversible should you want to..........

Mines been like that for several years and will stay that way despite me having a brand new cable and a set of Rugged Roads alloy choke cable plungers as well. Starts in all weathers even when she used to live outside........

There's thread on this somewhere on here with pictures I seem to recall.................

:thumb:

Bri
 
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