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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I have a broken Dominator due to a seized engine. I have to replace the top part of the cylinder head as it's an early model, pre 95 engine but my bike is post 95 ( 1998) and the rubber inlet is slightly different. I have managed to lift of the rocker cover but I cant work out how to separate the cylinder head. As it stands, I have the whole engine out of the bike with the rocker cover off with the cam and 4 x valves in the cylinder head just looking at me... teasing me... knowing I cant work out what to do next. ( Sorry if I have got the names wrong of engine parts, this is my first time opening up an engine ). The below picture is not my bike but one I found on google but this is what mine is currently looking like. Just wondered if anyone could point out what to do next??
Many thanks,
Dan

 

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Are you talking about the rubber inlet the carb goes into because you can just swap that from one engine to the other, if not you have to release the camchain tensioner and then remove the camchain sprocket to get the camshaft out and then remove the five bolts you can see in your photo
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for replying. The rubber inlet from my seized engine wont fit the spare engine cylinder head as the spacing is slightly different between early and late engines. How do I remove the cam chain tensioner? There is a round metal thing with a metal lip on it on the side of the engine, do I need to turn this? Sorry for the stupid questions! I have worked on cars and motorbikes for years as a diyer but never dabbled with the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great stuff thanks. These things are usually a lot easier than you think once you've done it once or twice. Thanks very much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right, I have the cylinder head off. I may have made a boo boo! With my limited knowledge, I have removed the cam chain sprocket and had to move the sprocket and chain round to get to the 2 x cam sprocket bolts. Have I by doing this messed up the cam chain timing? Im not sure what this is but I read on a cbr forum post that the chain shouldn't be moved as it will mess the timings up?? If I have managed to mess it up, should I put new gaskets on and put it together and take it to a bike garage to sort the timing out? Also, just another quickie, when I took the old gasket off, I assume I need to carefully, without scratching the head surface, scrape of any old bits of gasket, then when fitting the new one, am I correct in thinking that I smear a thin layer of engine oil around the head, fit the new gasket, then smear some more oil on the top of the gasket before fitting the rocker cover? I have ordered a haynes manual for an xr650l ( which I should be the same as my engine ) for the torque settings for the bolts. Also, whilst the head is off, should I give it and the cam a quick wash in clean engine oil to remove any dust and bits that might have blown into it whilst removing it? Many thanks for the advise so far.
 

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Use some scotchbrite (green or grey) to clean the gasket surfaces - make sure no debris goes internal.
Set the cam timing on reassemble.
 

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When you took your head off did you set the engine at top dead centre before you took it off or set the timing marks as shown?.
They should be level with the surface of the head at TDC.
The photo below shows you where the timing marks should have been that are marked on the camchain sprocket for this purpose.
When I did mine I also painted a spot on the chain and the sprocket with some nail varnish to make sure I put the chain on in the right position to prevent the problems that you are now having.
The timing marks are clearly shown in the position they should be in....I hope this helps.:thumbup:

10982079_925533690800101_8891827909377950527_n.jpg
If you didnt find TDC and set the camchain sprocket as shown then I think you need to find it.
It was a few years ago since I did mine so you might want to get a second opinion or check on the interweb or workshop manual before you take my advice as my memory isnt as good as it used to be.:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the info. I will keep my hands away from the engine until my haynes manual arrives to prevent any further balls ups. I ill go through the book and get tdc and fit the cam sprocket with the lines level as in your picture upon refitting. Best way to learn is by making the odd c**k up! The people on here are a god send for beginners like me :thumbup:.
 

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Thanks for the info. I will keep my hands away from the engine until my haynes manual arrives to prevent any further balls ups. I ill go through the book and get tdc and fit the cam sprocket with the lines level as in your picture upon refitting. Best way to learn is by making the odd c**k up! The people on here are a god send for beginners like me :thumbup:.
We all make mistakes ,thats how we learn innit. :):):)
I have been teaching my teenage son how to fix bikes and I am a lousy teacher but he loves it so much he decided to become a motorbike mechanic and now has to do all that book learnin stuff for 4 years..
One of my sons mistakes nearly killed me when he didnt tighten up his disc brake caliper bolts, he learned a lesson and so did I.........(never leave him alone fixing his bike):clown::clown::clown:
You havnt done any damage so dont beat yourself up about it ,you will be chuffed to bits when you get it sorted and your bike starts up ok.:thumbup:
 

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Hopefully I wont be shot for posting a link to another forum... http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/building-a-xr650l-engine.713831/
this is a really useful thread on rebuilding an engine, some great pics and advice. I also have the XR650l manual. With the site above, the manual and youtube you should be fine. Turn the engine over by hand before trying to start it just to make sure it turns as it should.

Good luck and let us know how you get on. I have a spare engine I am slowly (very slowly) going to rebuild at some stage.
 

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When I bought my Dommie it was a bit of a smoker but the guy swore on his kids life that the 16000km showing on the clocks was genuine.
Taking my head off was my first job to cure the smoking and as I expected the oil scraper ring was gummed up.
I took the cylinder and piston to a mate who measured the bore and said 16000km was hardly any wear at all.
He honed the cylinder to remove a rust spot in the bore where the piston had sat for 10 yrs for a case of beer and he suggested a new set of standard rings.
The price of new rings here in Denmark was twice the price of what they are in the real world so I had a mate in America send me a Wiseco piston set which was cheaper than the rings and that is the reason I had to learn how to take the head off.

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When I got the Wiseco piston ,I weighed it and it was about 135 grammes (25%) lighter than the standard Honda one which makes the engine a little revvier.
I still have the standard piston and rings if anyone needs one and my mate said the wear was only 5 thou.
I wish I,d had the link JamieB76 posted when I did mine a few years ago but I was surprised how easy this engine is to work on..
I have done the head,barrels and piston on mine , I have done the clutch , and I am ready for the gearbox if it ever needs doing.
Motorbike maintainance is a doddle now we have the internet to show us how and its surprisingly fun and theraputic.:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hopefully I wont be shot for posting a link to another forum... http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/building-a-xr650l-engine.713831/
this is a really useful thread on rebuilding an engine, some great pics and advice. I also have the XR650l manual. With the site above, the manual and youtube you should be fine. Turn the engine over by hand before trying to start it just to make sure it turns as it should.

Good luck and let us know how you get on. I have a spare engine I am slowly (very slowly) going to rebuild at some stage.
That was an excellent link and makes my cylinder head removal seem quite basic and simple! Honda sent my gaskets to the wrong shop so am just awaiting there arrival then i'll be piecing it back together. Although the bike has sat for over a year now so will need some tlc before getting back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Right, quick update. Finally escaped from family life for a few days and have put the little beast back together and much to my surprise it actually started.Needs a little bit of fine tuning with the carb. I thought id check that the top end was getting some oil as the engine I put in was bought out of the bike and not seen running. The reason I took the top end apart was because I thought I had read somehwere that the engine to car insulator had different sized bolt holes between the RD02 and RD08 models. Well, after much time spent taking the engine apart, I later found out that the cylinder heads are in fact the same, well I think different part numbers possibly but the engine seems to be a straight swap. I bought an RD02 engine ( non kick start model ), so for anyone reading and needs to do the same then the engines between early and later years seem to be a straight swap bar I think the very early models which may have a couple of non sway over characteristics. The car insulator is shorter on the RD08 than the RD02 which most people know so that cant be swapped.
Right, quick question, The bike has a metal oil pipe that connects to the r/h crankcase that goes to the top of the cylinder head, I undone that pipe as I thought it might show if oil was getting to the top end but I undid the bolt at the top of the cylinder head and nothing came out, the bike was running at the time and just made a ' sucking in air ' type noise? Should the oil come out of the oil line bolt? I'm a bit worried that the bike is not getting oil to the top end, the bike was only running for a couple of minutes before I tried undoing the oil line bolt. I did read on this site somehere about checking the oil to the top end but I cant seem to find it. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Oil should come out of that line as soon as you start the engine, you need to check that the oil pump is working, crank the engine over with the kill switch off and see if oil flows, don't run the engine with no oil to the top end!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for getting back to me, as you can tell I'm very new to working with engines but I thought the oil pump should be putting oil through that line straight away. The kill switch on my dommie kills all the starter so I can't turn it over with the kill switch off. I might get a mobile mechanic to have a quick look, it will be cheaper than getting another engine!
 

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You want to turn engine with starter, but dont want it to start ?? Kill switch wont let you turn ? Maybe try taking connector off the spark plug, eh, and dont touch the killswitch ? ;)
Also, if you are not getting oil to the top end, there is SMALL PIPE connecting oil pump and clutch cover of the engine. Is it there ??? It is le importante !
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Took the spark plug off and checking all the oil feeds. Just taken the oil filter out and there's hardly any oil in there. Turned engine over with filter out and no oil is being pumped to oil filter housing so I'm removing the crank cover and going to see what's what in there.
 
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