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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
Just got a '89 Dominator from my brother, all seems well apart from riding it home the gear lever started sliding on the shaft.

I have taken it off and had a look at it and unfortuantely the spline on the bike is buggered and I cant get the gear lever to grip.

I did try and drill a hole through the lever and the spline to fix it that way but the spline is too hard and I cant drill through it.

I have read the other posts on this but I just wanted to ask what the best idea to fix it would be without replacing the spline, my options atm are :-
A- get the gear lever welded on
B- was wondering if something like locite super steel would be good enough ?

Rich. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I know there is that option but im really poor at the moment and the bike only cost £500 so I was just looking for a cheap as possible fix ;)
 

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Had this happen about 3 years ago , & the local 'bike shop tack-welded a new lever on , cost about £25 , and its still on there ....:thumbup:

The only drawback is if you ever need to dismantle the engine , so if you have any other work planned , might be as well to get it done now .
 

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Stone Crazy
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Have yuo had a good look a the shaft spline?? clean it up and se just how bad the splines are, then get a new block from my mate Dave gear lever block and weld on
merv
 

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This sort of thing is notoriously difficult to fix. Liquid metal doesn't do the job for any length of time. Welding it is an option but then when you want to get it off you have to cut it off. Sometimes there are just enough splines left on the shaft for a new lever to grip it but it will wear rapidly.

From a breakers, the shaft will probably be around the £20 mark. Someone on here may even have a spare one. Add a lever to that and factor in a clutch cover gasket and it's not a massive repair cost if you do it yourself.
 

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Apparently , in my case , I had made the whole thing worse with my "Weekly analy-retentive blow-over with WD40" .:rolleyes:
Heigh ho !
 

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Get a tighter fitting lever from a c90 or similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Cheers for the info guys :)

A gear lever off a c90 ? Is that still likely to be ok even if the shaft it knackered then ?
It cant be that hold to get a gear lever off an old c90 can it ? :cool:

....Hmm just looked at those c90 levers on ebay, dont like the look of them, im thinking now just get it welded.
Are there any real issues I should know about getting it welded (apart from the obvious if i needed to take it back off) that I should know about ?
Or is it going to be as easy as pop into a garage hopefully on lunchbreak and get a blob of weld popped on and job done ?
 

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Stone Crazy
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This sort of thing is notoriously difficult to fix. Liquid metal doesn't do the job for any length of time. Welding it is an option but then when you want to get it off you have to cut it off. Sometimes there are just enough splines left on the shaft for a new lever to grip it but it will wear rapidly.

From a breakers, the shaft will probably be around the £20 mark. Someone on here may even have a spare one. Add a lever to that and factor in a clutch cover gasket and it's not a massive repair cost if you do it yourself.

Alan factor in a full gasket set might as wel do the rings and cam chain and the cam chain slides while you are in there it is a engine split job on the dommie to do the gearchange shaft i know i just stripped a SLR mill
Merv
 

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From a breakers, the shaft will probably be around the £20 mark. Someone on here may even have a spare one.

:blob7:


*Waves excitedly*


Will check how good/bad it is in the morning .

Buyer collects , mind ! ;)
 

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Stone Crazy
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£60 odd quid new i checked up when thinking about rebuilding the SLR (now gone) engine
merv
 

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Stone Crazy
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thats the shaft price
Gasket set comes in top and bottom end sets, genuine cost you best part of £130 if i remember correctly for both sets, pattern complete set around £55 to £75 depending on where you buy
merv
 

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Dave
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If you just want a bodge to hold it on for now,take the bike to an engineering shop and have them drill a hole through the lever and shaft and stick a nut & bolt through it :thumbup:
I cant see them charging any more than a couple of pint of beer ;)

[/tight-ass]
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
cheers mate, now that sounds more like the sort of thing i was looking to do :thumbup:

it was alright today i superglued it lol, it wont last long likie that but hopefully till i get someone to do the drill/bolt thing :D
 

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thats the shaft price
Gasket set comes in top and bottom end sets, genuine cost you best part of £130 if i remember correctly for both sets, pattern complete set around £55 to £75 depending on where you buy
merv
Of course, that's why welding it on is a good idea!

I forgot that bloody shaft is fitted between the crankcases isn't it. Doh. It's been a while since I rebuilt the bottom end of one of these motors.

As you were. Weld the little sod on :thumbright:
 

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Hi all, I am new on this forum. This thread is a bit outdated, but I had to solve the problem as well. Maybe someone could find my solution helpful. OK, what's the point.
Presumption: Both the gearshaft and pedal are entirely worn-out.
1st, use drilling machine to burrow two "sockets" [red dots on the picture], drill it with everything installed on the bike! It is quite easy. I recommend 4.5 to 4.8 mm drill [HQ].
2nd, lossen the bolt 6x20, which is holding the pedal on position.
3rd, you will need two bolts 5x16. Jam them in those prepared sockets.
4th, tighten the bolt 6x20.
It works fine. No welding needed.

(Sorry about my English... I am Czech)


 

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Two very good solutions (drill & peg or grub screw) which would have been my way out. If you ever have this problem occur whilst out riding remove the gear pedal and buy some mole grips to clamp to the selecter shaft. Not pretty but it will get you home. Rode for most of a holiday like this once.
 

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Romanian Trailbiker
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I'd advise against drilling the shaft. It works, but that shaft is expensive if it doesn't go well. I suggest two small weld points. This will prevent shifter slippage and are also easy to remove if needed.
 
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