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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks!

I've recently bought myself a -92 transalp, which had been sitting for 2 years. I knew the carbs needed cleaning and thought it was a great deal. First time I noticed problems with the battery was after driving 150kms straight on the highway and then letting it sit for a few days because of the carb cleaning. After rebuilding the carbs the bike didn't have enough power to even crank, so I charged the battery overnight and the next day the bike cranked like it should.

Now a few days ago I was driving on for 45 mins and noticed my blinkers weren't working anymore. Didn't give it too much thought at the moment and continued driving for maybe another 5 mins and then I suddenly noticed loss in power. With a stable throttle the bike didn't rev like it should. I stopped the bike and left it idling and tried to rev it while stopped, which caused the bike to stall. The bike didn't have enough power anymore to crank so I had the bike towed to a local mechanic. The mechanic charged the battery and everything seemed to be in order. The regulated voltage output was 14.4V @5000rpm without the lights on and 13.8V @5000 rpm with the headlight on.

As the mechanic didn't find anything wrong with the bike, I am wondering if any of you have ideas about what the problem might be.

The battery is two months old, although it was a cheap one. My tachometer is working. Also the temp gauge never rises more than a few millimeters, not even near half way. (Not sure if it has anything to do with this)

What the mechanic thought was just that the battery is poor quality but I'm concerned thats not really the cause of the problem. Besides I didn't even know an old bike like this could stall because of electrical power loss- I always thought you could roll start a bike like this even without a battery. That was at least possible on my first 125cc bike.

Is this likely to be a bad CDI-unit, something wrong with the coils, bad connections etc? Any ideas?

Now my plan is to buy a new battery of better quality and carry the old one charged with me and ride with my fingers crossed. (Makes operating the clutch and the front brake a bit harder though).

Thanks in advance.

Greetings from Finland.
 

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Check the R/R (Regulator/Recifier) and look at replacing it / upgrading - ideally a Mosfet type.

If the battery is a cheapy one then think about getting a better quality one. Check all connection are clean and tight and treat with dielectric grease.
 

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the loss of power sounds like a bad cdi unit, they should be placed on their side to avoid the seat pressing on them, like this (you need to order a new cradle from honda)

cdi.jpg

the indicators not working are a common problem, take the switch apart and remove the little brass plate, then clean thorough inside with WD40

transalps are not easy to "roll start"

something could be draining your battery, check all the wiring, make sure there are not any corroded bits or bad connections
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the tips. But don't the Measured voltages stand for a functional R/R? Also the indicators started working the after battery was charged again.
 

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mmm... that does sound a but odd

maybe try a different battery

the yellow "motobatt" ones are very good

and/or check all connections and the main fuse near the battery
 

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Try a plug in voltmeter while riding.
RRs can test ok when cold then break down once warmed up, dropping (or increasing) voltage.

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
 

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First thing to check is the earthing make sure the battery to ground wire has clean connections remove and clean with Scotchbrite or my favourite an abrasive rubber block.
Check the three wire connector from the stator to the R/R connector and make sure the terminals are all clean and not corroded.
Then move to the two wire connection from R/R output.
After cleaning use some silicone dielectric grease or ACF50 to keep them from corroding again.
If all these are good and the problem remains it is very likely a duff R/R unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I got myself a new battery (YUASA) and amultimeter and plugged it in to test the voltages while driving. Turned out that the readings were only 12.4-12.6, depending whether or not I had the lights on. So I'm guessing the R/R just happened to work while the bike was in the shop. Now is there a easy way to tell whether it's the alternator or R/R thats bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks. I followed the chart and while doing this:

"You've got a permanent magnet alternator system. Let the engine idle, and
connect the black multimeter-lead up to the battery(+). Connect the RED
multimeter lead up to the RED (or WHITE/RED = Kawasaki) output wire of the
RR. Leave the RR connected up to the bike. Check the reading on the meter.
Leave the engine idling !"

I got 0.9V instead of the allowed 0.2V. So I started to go through the connections and found a little bit of corrosion, but not much at all. I cleaned the corrosion with wd40 and the problem remains. Could there be something wrong with the starter relay, as power runs through it from the RR to the battery and all the connections seem to be fine?
 
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