Honda XRV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone tried to stop or reduce the drive chain slapping around on there bikes
its adjusted correctly but still the chain flaps around when im a high gear at low revs.
im thinking of adapting a spring loaded chain guide like they use on trials bikes,somewhere on the swinging arm maybe near the lower chain guard below the swinging arm.


any suggestions :thumbright:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,768 Posts
Never actually thought about it.
If it is adjusted correctly it should not be flapping around, unless you have measured it wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Has anyone tried to stop or reduce the drive chain slapping around on there bikes
its adjusted correctly but still the chain flaps around when im a high gear at low revs.
im thinking of adapting a spring loaded chain guide like they use on trials bikes,somewhere on the swinging arm maybe near the lower chain guard below the swinging arm.


any suggestions :thumbright:
It could be that you have one or more stiff or siezed chain links, I had this previously on an FJ1200. Also check the the chain slider on the swing arm is still there, it was missing when I bought my XRV750W.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Also check the condition of your sprockets, especially the front.
 

·
The Angry Pasty Muncher
Joined
·
6,170 Posts
Also check the condition of your sprockets, especially the front.
Also are you tensioning the chain up loaded or unloaded???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
adjusted chain unloaded but i like the idea of replacing the slider.still might adapt the add on trails bike slider i suggested.
thanks guys :thumbright:
 

·
its just a ride!
Joined
·
135 Posts
If you get to rig up a trials slider let me know and show us how you fixed it. Been thinking bout this meself.

Not much help am I?
:blah5:
 

·
The Angry Pasty Muncher
Joined
·
6,170 Posts
adjusted chain unloaded but i like the idea of replacing the slider.still might adapt the add on trails bike slider i suggested.
thanks guys :thumbright:
Thats why the chain is flapping around when you adjust your chain it needs to be done loaded ie preferably with you sitting on so you can get the correct tension
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Thats why the chain is flapping around when you adjust your chain it needs to be done loaded ie preferably with you sitting on so you can get the correct tension

Dont show us the dirt bike chain slider cos I just forked out 30 euros for a new one and if your idea works it ill be matches and a gallon of gogo juice
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
2,701 Posts
They all flap arround on low revs in high gear. I don't let mine rev so slowly for that reason, it causes chain wear and other drive train problems.

ps

As said above check front sprocket for 'hooking', . . . that will make the problem much worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks guys will try the basics first.re slider around the swinging arm and readjust the chain tension. but im still encouraged by the trail bike chain tensioner add on :thumbright:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Spent most of the morning trawling the forum for output shaft related info , had a cup of tea or two then went down to the shed.

I have a cheap solution but it depends on the amount of spline left on the out put shaft.

My out put shaft is slightly worn . Enough for me to look into the whole "bodge(weld) /replace " debate.


So I took off the old sprocket which had forward and backward play and allot of left play and less right play.

I then fitted my new sprocket and noticed the further on the spline it was all play vanished.

The only trouble was when I fitted the sprocket plate the sprocket moved back down the splines 2/3mm and the play came back into it again .

So I got some washers and forced the sprocket plate back to the off set splines and now the plate is forcing the sprocket up onto the shaft and all play is gone .



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,174 Posts
Nice idea but that means the sprocket is now out of line and driving solely on the inside of the sprocket on maybe 3mm of good spline. That will wear rather rapidly as the contact area will be very small compared with the full width of the sprocket that normally contacts the splines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Although what Alan says is true, don't be disheartened,you arn't going to make anything worse,just wearing down a bit of spline to match the rest.
and the amount of misalignement over the chain run to the back wheel is
well within the chains limits .

Lee:thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
give it ago.i went for a test run and while the chain was flapping about i looked down and it was the lower part of the chain below the swinging arm which was the culprit,i guess im going to fix up the chain tensioner guide like i said about before,i looked on ebay and typed in chain tensioner,im going for a universal one because they are cheaper and they seem to bend out further .i guess i will have to use a spacer and a longer bolt,but its worth shot,:thumbright:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,768 Posts
I have thought about using one from a pushbike but was wondering if it could handle the rotational speeds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ummm the chain off push bike is alittle slim compaired to that on the at wont u agree.give it ago though :thumbright:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
Don't trials bike tensioners tend to be made from soft rubber?
how long will they last on the road?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,174 Posts
i went for a test run and while the chain was flapping about i looked down and it was the lower part of the chain below the swinging arm which was the culprit
It's quite possible that the chain flapping does not really indicate a mechanical problem that needs a solution. As long as the chain is not hitting anything and is not so loose it's going to come off, then will it really do any harm? Chains do that. If they don't, they are too tight. Tight spots or a knackered cush drive will make the flapping worse. Make sure the cush drive rubbers aren't all sloppy and tired.

From your posts, I'd suggest you take a look at the way you're riding the bike. Lugging one of these motors at low revs in a high gear will hammer the transmission and cause all sorts of issues from premature cush drive wear through to the dreaded spline failure on the output shaft. If you're using low revs and a high gear, the harshness is due to the final drive being hammered as components smack against each other - not chain flap. Are you running taller gearing by any chance? That'll make it worse.

It's a character of these bikes that the power delivery is not particularly smooth at lower rpm. Yes there is enough torque to trundle around at 1500rpm in top but it's really not a good idea. The motor is far happier, far smoother and it's far kinder to the transmission to go for a lower gear and let the motor spin faster on a lighter throttle. It may not be quite so good on fuel letting it rev more but in my book I'd rather spend a bit more on fuel than rebuild the gearbox.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top