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Discussion Starter #1
I've noticed two problems that I suspect are related in my 94 rd07:

  1. When in neutral at a stop with the clutch lever out, the engine will occasionally "skip"...almost feels like something is catching the engine briefly. If the engine is cold this can cause it to stall.
  2. When in neutral at a stop with the clitch lever out, the engine sounds rough when I pull the throttle. If I pull the throttle with the clutch level pulled in, the engine sounds just fine.
I can't find any evidence that the clutch is slipping (I've tested the clutch at speed)...but I still suspect the clutch is the problem. Anyone have any ideas?

Despite my last few posts describing problems, I love this bike! :thumbleft:

 

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I've noticed two problems that I suspect are related in my 94 rd07:


1. When in neutral at a stop with the clutch lever out, the engine will occasionally "skip"...almost feels like something is catching the engine briefly. If the engine is cold this can cause it to stall.
Mine's been doing this for years. No reason to be worried I think.

2. When in neutral at a stop with the clitch lever out, the engine sounds rough when I pull the throttle. If I pull the throttle with the clutch level pulled in, the engine sounds just fine.
How rough? Mine does run quieter when the clutch is pulled in but I think they all do that. Any chance you could post a video so we can listen to it? Nice bike BTW!
 

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Does the rear wheel turn when bike on center stand and engine idling in Neutral?
Remember they'll all do that when it's really cold. Shouldn't do it once the oil has warmed up a bit which I assume is what you're referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The front sprocket, chain and splines are all in good condition.

All symptoms appear with a warm engine.

Carbs were synced about 2,000km ago.

Not sure about the rear whell moving while in neutral. Will check that when I get home on the 2nd.

Could it be anything other than the clutch plates needing to be replaced?

Happy new year by the way!!
 

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Happy New Year!


Reading the symptoms, I'm wondering if we've had anything like this before. It's quite difficult to diagnose with just a line of text, so a video might help.

In my mind, it seems like the symptoms are less severe with the clutch pulled in? This is obviously when there are less parts moving inside the engine, and consequently less drag/friction.

I'm going to suggest that a good place to start would be checking the entire choke assembly to make sure one of the (3) cables are not binding, and that neither of the choke plungers or the springs are stuck.
Whilst doing this I would balance the carbs anyway.

If this proves inconclusive, you need to determine if it is something mechanical or electrical, and I'd check the following...

Ignition circuit, and safety (cutout) circuit.
Ignition pickup and connections
CDI connections and CDI.
Check all the 4 HT leads (plug wires) are all secure, and the plugs tight.
Check the 2 blanking bolts for the vacuum takeoffs are secure on the intake side of the carbs.
Check the rubbers between the carbs annd airbox (do not overtighten clamps)
Clutch assembly, check the big nut that holds it on, and the arm and thrust assembly.


My gut feeling is that it is something simple rather than a major job. AT engines are pretty much bullet proof.

You don't metion whether this is a sudden fault or something that's got progressively worse??



Good Luck



Bob :thumbup:
 

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could it not be a slightly too low idle speed causing stalling when cold, plus general gearbox and clutch noise in neutral when revving it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
could it not be a slightly too low idle speed causing stalling when cold, plus general gearbox and clutch noise in neutral when revving it?
If anything, my idle speed is set a bit too high, so I don't think it is that kind of stalling.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Happy New Year!

Reading the symptoms, I'm wondering if we've had anything like this before. It's quite difficult to diagnose with just a line of text, so a video might help.

In my mind, it seems like the symptoms are less severe with the clutch pulled in? This is obviously when there are less parts moving inside the engine, and consequently less drag/friction.

I'm going to suggest that a good place to start would be checking the entire choke assembly to make sure one of the (3) cables are not binding, and that neither of the choke plungers or the springs are stuck.
Whilst doing this I would balance the carbs anyway.

If this proves inconclusive, you need to determine if it is something mechanical or electrical, and I'd check the following...

Ignition circuit, and safety (cutout) circuit.
Ignition pickup and connections
CDI connections and CDI.
Check all the 4 HT leads (plug wires) are all secure, and the plugs tight.
Check the 2 blanking bolts for the vacuum takeoffs are secure on the intake side of the carbs.
Check the rubbers between the carbs annd airbox (do not overtighten clamps)
Clutch assembly, check the big nut that holds it on, and the arm and thrust assembly.

My gut feeling is that it is something simple rather than a major job. AT engines are pretty much bullet proof.

You don't metion whether this is a sudden fault or something that's got progressively worse??

Good Luck

Bob :thumbup:
Hi Bob!

I will try to take some video of the problem tomorrow and post it here.

You are correct, the symptoms go away entirely when I pull the clutch in. That's why my focus has been on the clutch.

I agree that it is likely something simple. I will also re-adjust my clutch cable in addition to your suggestions surrounding the choke.

This issue has appeared over the last month or two.

Will post more when I am back home with my bike! :thumbup:
 

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............ the symptoms go away entirely when I pull the clutch in.

That kind of says it all really I think - again, there may be more that cannot be "seen" over the net but I would look straight at the clutch. Looks like you maintain the bike well, so while I would not discount all the things you say have been done anyway or that you will check, sometimes the best thing is to go straight to the issue (mind you that never works with the wife!)

FWIW every bike I have had has had a noise from the clutch that goes quiet when the lever is pulled in, all to do with what is moving/under load etc. I would guess that the clutch needs new parts (plates, springs etc.) You will only be able to tell that from looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, after doing a service on my bike which included new oil, valve clearances and syncing the carbs it appears that all my issues have gone away. I'm thinking that it was the carbs being out of sync.

I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for everyone's help!
 

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I think it was sticky choke syndrome, so it may return. Usually the tickover gets turned up to compensate for the tickover dropping with a warm engine.
 

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Installing stronger springs on the choke plungers and keeping the plungers clean and lubricated is another option.

After installing stronger springs my choke has been working correctly.
 

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I note that on the Rugged Roads website they are now selling metal choke bodies which should make keeping them clean a lot easier.
 
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