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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I have just bought a well used SLR650 as a winter hack. As you would expect being 16 years old with 35k on the clock and used all year round it's seen some action.

Anyway, despite the general well used condition lurks the beating heart of a trusty old 650 single Honda!

A few minor jobs required, first and foremost the brakes which are appalling and need urgent attention.

Secondly - Exhaust header collars are completely rotten (as usual) and when trying to remove a stud nut from either side the inevitable occurred, i.e.e the stud sheared!!

So I need to either drill the studs out or use a stud extractor or find somebody suitable equipped and qualified to do the job.

Questions - I can be almost sure somebody else here has had this happen. If so did you fix it yourself, if so how? Or, did you get somebody to do it for you and if so who and where?

Any help or advice gratefully received.
 

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Bloody furriner
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Not much use now, but for the next time: If they're that crusty (as they would be) I'd be tempted to cut the nut open and pry it off instead of trying to undo them the conventional way. Then clean them up a bit with a tap or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I could try a nut splitter on the two remaining nuts but still have two sheared studs to deal with. Problem seems to be that the nuts have rust welded themselves to the studs. I had an XBR500 a few years back and had the same problem but managed to get them off without the stud shearing. It a nuisance but as it is one stud per side it is sort of rideable and I may try and get it to a specialist who can remove them without me ham-fistedly doing any further damage!
 

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The only way I have ever got sheared studs out of anything is with very careful MiG welding a 'lump' onto what remains of the stud (or bolt) and then a larger nut onto the 'lump'. The induced heat from welding can help free the threads too. Tried stud extractors in the past and these usually shear off too!
 

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I've just bought a 2003 Vigor that's lived by the sea - everything that could be rusty is rusty.
I've just removed all four horribly rusty exhaust nuts by going round to my mate's house and using his Oxy/Ace torch, once the nuts were orange hot they just came straight off.
I have been where you are before, hence my not even trying to remove the nuts without Oxy/Ace torch!
Here's an easy fix. Weld a length of M8 threaded rod onto the snapped stud, dress the knuckle of weld as best you can with a dremmel or similar then drill the hole in the exhaust clamp larger so that it goes over the weld knuckle. Then use an M8 flanged nut and washer when you tighten it down. This worked a treat on one a Vigor I used to own.
Make sure the welded knuckle is closer to the head than the outside of the exhaust clamp so that you can tighten everything down.
Now, if the stud is snapped off flush then you are up sh*t creek - I ended up pulling the head off and taking it to a machine shop to get the stud spark eroded out.
Don't touch the remaining nuts until you get access to an Oxy/Ace torch! Penetrating oil is useless, a propane blowtorch is useless.
Good luck.
 

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Just to add to this.
Even with the Oxy torch one of the bolts on my Freewind snapped, it came out 1 turn then locked solid.
I've just done the weld-on-a-stud repair as I explained in my previous post and it worked a treat, there was only about 3mm of bolt sticking out but it was easy enough.
It's definitely worth considering as an option. Once the repair is done it doesn't affect the head in any way so if down the road you do want to take the head off and get the stud eroded out you haven't spoiled it in any way.
 
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