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Could anyone please go into detail about the electrical wiring. If i keep the green and black/blue wires from the old pump, shall I cut them off say halfway up and strip off the isolation at the ends. Then splice the green wire with the black wire from the Facet, and then splice the black/blue wire with the red wire from the Facet. And finish the job by using electrical tape around each splice to isolate each wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Could anyone please go into detail about the electrical wiring. If i keep the green and black/blue wires from the old pump, shall I cut them off say halfway up and strip off the isolation at the ends. Then splice the green wire with the black wire from the Facet, and then splice the black/blue wire with the red wire from the Facet. And finish the job by using electrical tape around each splice to isolate each wire?
You are correct.

Black wire from the new pump goes to the green wire which is (ground).

The red wire from the new pump goes to the wire that is colored blue/black. That wire in turn goes to the fuel cut-off relay. Solder connections or a qaulity butt splice will do.
 

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Hi there had my @ a few months now and after a few days I had probs with it and believe it was the fuel pump (not knowing that they are c*ap) anyway I got it going again somehow and it's been fine ever since but I have a trip round Europe coming up and just dont trust it. I've come accross facet pumps before the red tops etc are used for car racing all the time and have a good reputation in my eyes although they are quite expensive. There is a guy selling thease solid state ones on ebay for 33 quid with the unions:-

"This is a new Facet solid state fuel pump, part number 40105 suitable for ' road' use with engines up to 130 bhp using a single or twin carburettor setup. It is an ideal pump to fit in place of the standard mechanical type in many vehicles.
Specification is: 12v, 2.5-3.0 psi, flow rate 12galls/hour, thread size 1/8th nptf. It should be mounted as close to the tank as possible. A mounting kit is recommended for noise reduction which can be bought in the shop for £5.40. If you require 6mm or 10mm unions please say at checkout."




So is this the correct pressure? I know the 40106 is to much but I would hate to not be getting enough fuel at full chat and prob wouldnt notice it but it may bug me slightly not knowing. does anyone know the fuel output on the OEM pump? also what size unions fit? I read on here somewhere it's 10mm but this seems as bit large as I thought thease were internal diameter.


cheers
 

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Hi, if your talking about ebay shop Fastroadcars then go for it.
Anthony is a cool and honest businessman, I got my Facet from him.
You want the 40105 Facet and 10 mm unions.
Haven't had any problems with mine since fitting it, either riding off-road of at hi-speed.
As for the installation process, just read this thread from the beginning and you shouldn't have any problems. If you do, give us a shout and we'll oblige. :thumbup:

A trip round Europe? Will it include my country?

Cheers.

PS. Swansea? Please tell Steve Rothery of Marillion I said Hi! :cool:
 

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White van man
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I'm off on a tour of Normandy/Britany in a few days so thought it was time to fit the Facet pump i've had for months;) My @ has now done 38,000 on the original so best not push my luck any longer. Followed Waynes guide at beginning of this thread, found it a doddle:thumbright:
Thanks for the info Wayne, really helped:thumbright::thumbright::thumbright:
 

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Just fitted mine, but bike won't start now. Does it matter if it is fitted upside down? (It means I'll have to repeat the fun of putting the rubber mount on again!)

I also accidentally drove over the pump in a transit van.... that could be the problem, it looked okay but bent the bracket that gets chopped off anyway.
 

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Just fitted mine, but bike won't start now. Does it matter if it is fitted upside down? (It means I'll have to repeat the fun of putting the rubber mount on again!)

I also accidentally drove over the pump in a transit van.... that could be the problem, it looked okay but bent the bracket that gets chopped off anyway.

not fitted one yet but I recall folk having issues if its piped the wrong way round i.e. fuel line from the tank to the outlet of the pump...

it being run over is a first :toothy3:
 

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Very usefull thread
 

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Putting the OEM rubber on (you know what I mean :lol3) is fairly easy with 2 people, silicone spray, a clamp and 4 tie-wraps. No heating and no ball-breaking involved. Each grab a pair of tie-wraps and pull in turns until the rubber is on..





Teflon seems to be mandatory, I have a minor leak on "out" union without it.

I cut some of the outflow tube to get it to link straight on without turns.

I had a green and a blue/black wire, the green is the ground, so connect the black facet wire there and you should be fine.

It's not a perfect fit so you should use additional tie-wraps to secure it in place.

I didn't have to remove any fairings, plenty(ish) of space to work around.

Thanks for the great info all, especially the OP, GSPD750!! :thumbup:
 

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Unus sed leo
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Thanks GSPD750, if I could do it based on your instructions then they must be great! :p
However, fitting the rubber mount was a nightmare.
After 1.5 hours of heating, pulling and teeth-grinding, I found myself a log and 4 3" nails.
Hammered one nail into the log, measured +0,5cm on the pump and drove in another nail thus eventually being able to put the pump inside the stretched mount and removing the nails.
 

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Just fitted Facet pump to my 99 Varadero. There was no way the rubber mount was going to stretch over the new pump so I bodged a mounting onto the original bracket. Wiring instructions were spot on.
And the bike starts and runs as it should:thumbright::thumbright::thumbright:
 

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Just fitted a facet to my rd04.

Here's what I found.
First, get old pump off, curse rear suspension adjuster for being in the way no matter where you angle it. Secondly, after some lateral thinking about mounting the new one, I threw the rubber mount away. No point- the angle of the pump would have been iffy if I'd have used it and a didn't want the agro for the sake of it.

Wiring in was easy enough, but of solder and heat shrink and a nice easy job.

The next job was routing the pipe. What an utter pig that was. So little room to do anything! Too high and it gets munched by the shock, too low and it's eaten by the chain. I ended up using a metre length of hose, looping back nice and open to not kink it.

Started up, ran fine for a mo then died. It was at this point that I realise that I am a [email protected] and have put the outflow to the tank. Rectified that and now runs superbly! Much much smoother and has more guts to it. Old pump is really bad- points are cooked and it looks like it has got very hot at some point!
 

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Toolbox
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Hi there,

in order not to start a new thread on an old issue, I´m pulling this one up again. Looking into a permanent replacement for my OEM pump (which has been modified to supress the sparks, but all good things come to an end eventually) I consider the Facet, probably from the folks at RuggedRoads since they supply the connectors as well.
Here´s two questions to the experienced guys:
- Using teflon tape for the fuel line connector threads does seem odd to me. This ain´t a water hose in the garden but supposed to be keeping lots of fuel in the tank of a motorcycle (or apparently in aircraft too) - I for one don´t need an unexpected pool of fuel in my company´s garage... Isn´t there an - err - professionally engineered solution? I can´t imagine some company makes fuel pumps and does not provide a ready-to-go solution for screwing in the necessary connectors... If there is no solid solution, the Facet is probably not good enough for me and I´ll go for the Pierburg.

- I have not found any hint that anyone has made a modification to the emergency shut-down of the fuel pump, which is a valuable feature. The original emergency shut-down will not work with an electrical fuel pump like the facet. Whilst it is obvious that the Facet will stop if the kill switch is engaged, the OEM solution with the Mitsubishi pump does more - if the engine stops e.g. when the bike falls on the side, the fuel pump stops automatically, ensuring that the rider underneath the bike will not swim in fuel. A known workaround is the replacement of the fuel pump thyristor setup with a standard relay, connected to the oil pressure switch, which will activate if the bike drops and the oil pressure goes south. Has anyone experience with this setup or another workaround with the Facet?

Thanks, cheers
Chris
 

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Here's a working solution on the Facet / Pierburg (sorry I haven't got round to translating it yet)

 

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Discussion Starter #79
Hi there,

in order not to start a new thread on an old issue, I´m pulling this one up again. Looking into a permanent replacement for my OEM pump (which has been modified to supress the sparks, but all good things come to an end eventually) I consider the Facet, probably from the folks at RuggedRoads since they supply the connectors as well.
Here´s two questions to the experienced guys:
- Using teflon tape for the fuel line connector threads does seem odd to me. This ain´t a water hose in the garden but supposed to be keeping lots of fuel in the tank of a motorcycle (or apparently in aircraft too) - I for one don´t need an unexpected pool of fuel in my company´s garage... Isn´t there an - err - professionally engineered solution? I can´t imagine some company makes fuel pumps and does not provide a ready-to-go solution for screwing in the necessary connectors... If there is no solid solution, the Facet is probably not good enough for me and I´ll go for the Pierburg.

- I have not found any hint that anyone has made a modification to the emergency shut-down of the fuel pump, which is a valuable feature. The original emergency shut-down will not work with an electrical fuel pump like the facet. Whilst it is obvious that the Facet will stop if the kill switch is engaged, the OEM solution with the Mitsubishi pump does more - if the engine stops e.g. when the bike falls on the side, the fuel pump stops automatically, ensuring that the rider underneath the bike will not swim in fuel. A known workaround is the replacement of the fuel pump thyristor setup with a standard relay, connected to the oil pressure switch, which will activate if the bike drops and the oil pressure goes south. Has anyone experience with this setup or another workaround with the Facet?

Thanks, cheers
Chris
Hello Chris...you bring up some valid points. The earlier Facet pump housings (40105) were made of brass in which the ultralite
aircraft people would not use teflon tape or any sealant at all...providing that the barbed fitting that was screwed into the pump
was also brass. Obviously being a tapered pipe thread (interference fit) it was important that you torqued it sufficiently tight. Ultralight people will
still use teflon tape....and yes we've heard that it can break down with certain fuels. An alternative is the 'yellow teflon tape' used by gas fitters
but used more for natural gas....however I have heard it is resistant to many other types of fuels. I suggested the white teflon tape (newer Facets have a steel body) in my
installation only because just about everyone has a roll kicking around somewhere at home.

Keep in mind the importance of not getting any tape on the forward face of the fitting as you certainly don't want teflon tape going through
your carb and wreaking havoc. Some will say the direction in which you wrap the tape onto the threads will make a difference (counterclockwise preferred) as this
will keep the tape wrapped more tight as you torque it in. Also note that their will still be a couple of threads showing after the installation of the fitting.
My Facet has be installed 7 years now with white teflon tape and no leaks.

Another alternative is a paste type sealant in which their are many out there if you do the research. Loctite 565 is one.

Emergency shutdown should my bike go sideways is not really a personal concern of mine. The function of the fuel cut-off relay
IMO will do the job just fine should I lose any ignition source in that I will have peace of mind knowing that when the engine stops the pump
will stop. It just seems to be the least of my worries with all the a-holes on the road today...however you made a good point...especially
when it comes to safety.
 

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Hi Guy's great thread this, I have replaced my stock pump with the facet and although the bike runs fine I have an intermitant clattering coming from the pump, there is no interference in operation of the bike when it is clattering but I dont know why it is doing it. It sounds as if the pump is empty? Why? the only thing that I am questioning is should the fuel filter be between the tank and pump or the pump and carb's do I need one either side of the pump? I have tried two facets and they both do the same. Does anyone elses do this. I feel i need a explanation as it makes me feel as I cant rely on it.
Regards Tez:p
 
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