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Discussion Starter #1
How well do you find your bike starts now?

I ask as before I stripped mine down, it started pretty well, with the choke disconnected.

Now, I start it, it takes a good few failed cranking attempts before one cylinder coughs. Then keep trying, that one cylinder will always cough once, and eventually catch, then the other cylinder fires, and it runs lumpily for a bit, and eventually settles down to a pretty nice even tickover.

I'll put a vid up, but that's a pretty accurate description. It's suprisingly consistent actually. Always starts, eventually. This can take around 5 minutes.

Have tried pilot screws every bloody which way. On 2¾ turns now and it stalls every third time you blip the throttle(??!!!)

Float heights? I really have no idea. Getting fed up with it now, I want to put the fairings back on but pointless when I keep taking the tank on and off...
 

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My RD07a with chokes disconnected starts like your's. I don't use it in winter so can't say if it's worse in the cold, but i expect it would be. ( I find it better if i leave the fuel tap in on position. )

RD04 still has chokes connected and starts very easily, but only does about 35 to 40 mpg.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmm, well it's good to know someone else's does the same! Cheers :D
 

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Born to Slide
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Hi
I just disconnected the frotnt cylinder choke. It starts easy and ticks over a bit slow on choke but does not stall even in cold Welsh winter temps.

It is infortant that any disconected choke is pushed fully in and a suitable bolt used to keep it there - all the way in is choke off.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Mine's still good whatever the weather and with a battery that is at least three and a half years old if not older. That's with it running at least 4 days a week though, don't know how it would be in the cold with less frequent use.

Why don't you take it to someone with a dyno and get them to test the exhaust gases and set the pilot screws?
 

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I bought my bike a 98 model 4 yrs ago so it was 7 yrs old when i bought it with 6000 miles on the clock. All the parts were still original but unsure about the battery. Anyway, I've had the bike 4 yrs and still on the same battery. Last year I cleaned the choke plungers and removed the cables. Fuel went from 180miles to a tank to hitting reserve at just over 220miles. My bike sometimes doesn't get started for anything upto 3 weeks and starts no problem. Not lumpy and fires evenly from the outset. Only problem is it doesn't tick over for about 2 mins. It is garaged though.
Hope this helps
JB1
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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I bought my bike a 98 model 4 yrs ago so it was 7 yrs old when i bought it with 6000 miles on the clock. All the parts were still original but unsure about the battery. Anyway, I've had the bike 4 yrs and still on the same battery. Last year I cleaned the choke plungers and removed the cables. Fuel went from 180miles to a tank to hitting reserve at just over 220miles. My bike sometimes doesn't get started for anything upto 3 weeks and starts no problem. Not lumpy and fires evenly from the outset. Only problem is it doesn't tick over for about 2 mins. It is garaged though.
Hope this helps
JB1
I start and ride off straight away. The bike will tickover without stalling after about 500 yards. If I start it and don't ride off, it will take about 2 mins to tickover cleanly.
 

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Question for people who have disconnected their choke.

WHY would you NOT want a normal operating choke on your AT?

Is it about $ or is it the grief they cause?
I realize the cable and plungers can stick..but geez..it's really quite a
simple system with a cable that splits to a couple of plungers in a bore. Remove tank..clean and lubricate.
Parts are readily available (albiet a bit pricey), but it's a small price to pay on a chilly morning when your cranking and cranking until that sound of a battery going dead.
 

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Surely the engine runs rich enough to start without the choke, therefore remove it to save aggro at a later date.
 

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My chokes were put on the shelf last year and although I am lucky enough to keep the bike in the garage it always starts

I always do a bit of a ritual for what ever reason, just like I used to do with the crossers...B4 cranking it over when cold in a morning I put it in high gear, pull in the clutch and rock the bike back & forth to 'release' the clutch. Then I push it forward & let go of the clutch 2 or 3 times to actually turn the engine over. Put it back into neutral & fire it up.

Without the chokes it'll need a few revs for a minute or so then it'll idle, no problem. Running the bike out of the shed up on to the top of the garden helps to warm it up enough to then idle.

And, as Stumpy says, it runs rich anyway, even with a race pipe on.
 

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Nexus 6
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My chokes have been disconnected for a good few months now and I'm not riding her anywhere near as much as I now work from home in a company car - but when she does get fired up all I need to do is take up the slack on the throttle then turn it a couple of millimeters and crank - she then fires up fine, hold the trottle steady and the she ticks over after a couple of seconds light throttle - even when 'Scottish cold'.

i dont miss the chokes as my MPGs have gone up and the miss-firing is well down.

I may be so bold as to suggest that your by-pass screw tinkering may be to blame here?...............

The choke is dead, long live the non-choke.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Question for people who have disconnected their choke.

WHY would you NOT want a normal operating choke on your AT?

Is it about $ or is it the grief they cause?
I realize the cable and plungers can stick..but geez..it's really quite a
simple system with a cable that splits to a couple of plungers in a bore. Remove tank..clean and lubricate.
Parts are readily available (albiet a bit pricey), but it's a small price to pay on a chilly morning when your cranking and cranking until that sound of a battery going dead.
I just got sick of the continual worry about using the choke in case it didn't return correctly, despite cleaning it more than once. The bloody salt they use here is half the problem. Also the fact that one wrong move when removing the plastic choke body could result in it breaking (at £50 each).

I disconnected the choke in about April 07. Done over 40k since then in all UK weathers.

I have actually got a brand new cable and two choke bodies antime I want to refit them but until I get problems they are definitely staying off.

I honestly don't crank the motor for ages, it usually fires up as the button is touched.
 

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I just got sick of the continual worry about using the choke in case it didn't return correctly, despite cleaning it more than once. The bloody salt they use here is half the problem. Also the fact that one wrong move when removing the plastic choke body could result in it breaking (at £50 each).

I disconnected the choke in about April 07. Done over 40k since then in all UK weathers.

I have actually got a brand new cable and two choke bodies antime I want to refit them but until I get problems they are definitely staying off.

I honestly don't crank the motor for ages, it usually fires up as the button is touched.
I can see how that salt would cause problems, and I've seen pics of rusty frames on xrv.org after a stripdown. I guess I'm a bit spoiled here in the desert like weather of S. Alberta. Thanks for that post. :thumbright:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why don't you take it to someone with a dyno and get them to test the exhaust gases and set the pilot screws?
Had it dyno'd at the tailend of the summer mate - operator said it was a bit lean on pilot. Bingo, thinks I, but richening the mixture just resulted in sooty plugs and a bike that is a pig to start :confused:

How much difference does a quarter turn on these screws make?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My chokes have been disconnected for a good few months now and I'm not riding her anywhere near as much as I now work from home in a company car - but when she does get fired up all I need to do is take up the slack on the throttle then turn it a couple of millimeters and crank - she then fires up fine, hold the trottle steady and the she ticks over after a couple of seconds light throttle - even when 'Scottish cold'.
Yep, exactly how mine was! Literally open the throttle a nat's nacker and it fires, hold it at a steady idle for a minute or two, then it will tick over fine.

stageonesimmo said:
I may be so bold as to suggest that your by-pass screw tinkering may be to blame here?...............
Well that's what I'm trying to find out
 

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They can amke a big difference so may well be the root of the problem. Did you mark them before moving them, or keep a record of how may turns you've made? I cant remember what the factory average setting is meant to be to use as a start point.........
 

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My RD07a with chokes disconnected starts like your's. I don't use it in winter so can't say if it's worse in the cold, but i expect it would be. ( I find it better if i leave the fuel tap in on position. )

RD04 still has chokes connected and starts very easily, but only does about 35 to 40 mpg.
I should add that if i use it every day in summertime it starts easily, . . if left a week or more its similar to your description.

I did try to richen it up on slow running but the head of one of the adjuster screws just crumbled away.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #18
They can amke a big difference so may well be the root of the problem. Did you mark them before moving them, or keep a record of how may turns you've made? I cant remember what the factory average setting is meant to be to use as a start point.........
It's 2.5 according to Honda, and 2 and 3/8s according to Haynes! I didn't record it as I just twaked each one open a bit (The same amount) and thought that would sort it!

How easily can float height etc go out of whack?

I'm wondering if it could be something electrical?
 

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Mmmmmm, float heights - if they are low (which I doubt as it normaly takes something drastic to alter them such as a strip down of the carbs) it would explain why it needs to crank lots to start as the carbs need to fill up before the fuel starts getting drawn in, but it could also point to the non-return valve in the fuel line after the pump - if that's shot and letting the fuel drain back down then you have the same problem - but TBH with the amount of fuel a 'good' stock pump or an aftermarket type delivers its a matter of seconds to lift enough fuel to fill the carbs back up and not the lots of seconds we're on about. Its where I'd start though - check the valve is still a one-way-street and check the delivery rate from the pump - nothing to scientific, just make sure its giving a good surge of fuel at cranking. Then you'll know you've got carbs that are full within seconds of starting to crank and you (we) can go from there.....
 

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Mine worked the same as Yen's and almost immediately started and I took off down the road :D

We have just done the mod on Lootch's bike and will see how well that performs as it's been standing for a couple of months in my garage not used. Already when it fires up the motor sounds much sweeter and runs smoothly. I popped the carb balancers on and they are spot on and never been touched before :thumbright:

The caliper pins also look quite neat where the choke bodies are supposed to go :lol:
 
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