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Theres some arrow headers & arrow cans on Ebay if anyone is intrested just found them when i was have a rummage around.

Arrow headers item number 200203549336

Arrow cans item number 200203549998

J5
 

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I need some new tyres and was wondering if anyone had tried a 180 on the back as i have 5 of my old race tyres in my garage ?????????

any info let us know,, cheers

Hi did you try any other sizes as I too have access to the original tyres off new 600 race bikes (I was a mechanic for a British Supersport team for a few years) and still have the contacts? I currently have a 160 BT 020 on as it is sticky enough but also lasts.

Cheers Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Hi did you try any other sizes as I too have access to the original tyres off new 600 race bikes (I was a mechanic for a British Supersport team for a few years) and still have the contacts? I currently have a 160 BT 020 on as it is sticky enough but also lasts.

Cheers Rob
not tried any yet bud, i have been thinking of sticking some Goldspeed's on it, the cut slick road legal ones but not got em yet. i will post the outcome when i get em.
cheers

Mat
 

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Ok guy's here goes i have chopped down a set of arrow baffles and refiited them and rode to elvington today around all the twisty's out near york in yorkshire and to be honest i cannot ride the bike with the baffles in although it did not slow the bike down at all it pulled over 100 mph with baffles in today, it does not have the same affect you dont get them nice bangs and pops when you shut of the throttle and get that sound when you change gear like you have a quick shifte fitted i just love that bang you get from time to time when you change gear it's awesome with the straight through arrows i am goin to play with the jetting shortly i have drilled a few out at work ready to go in,

This is my cmpaign to all of you with th arrow cans ditch the baffles they sound loads betta just buy your neighbours a present now and them to keep them sweet.

Serviced the bike yesterday and i have to say it was a arsehole to do draining oil from 3 points rather than 1 but in reflection it wasn't that bad took around a hour to do a full service and cost around £25.00 including oil filter spark plug and oil just fitted new K&N.

J5:blob7:
Hi guys, i had just bought myself an FMX650 05 Model, just wanted to clarify how you changed oil, you mentioned you drained oil from three points, i know of the one in the frame and the other at the left hand bottom side crank, where is the third point? is it too much to ask how you changed the oil step by step as the owners manual i got was not in english, i also noticed that my FMX is so cold blooded, the engine has to be warmed up for more than 5 mins for it to run cleanly, is this normal? thank you...
 

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2006 Honda FMX650 Da Moto
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With regard to it being cold blooded, - I havent had any problems with it not starting, or keeping it going when cold, - i use full choke to start it, and set off straight away, leave full choke on for about 2 minutes, and its fine after that............
 

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With regard to it being cold blooded, - I havent had any problems with it not starting, or keeping it going when cold, - i use full choke to start it, and set off straight away, leave full choke on for about 2 minutes, and its fine after that............
great! thanks for the tip, rode the bike off when cold with the choke on 3/4 for a few blocks before turning the choke off, works fine.. :thumbright:
 

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with the recent freezing weather i have had to resort to turning the idle speed up, otherwise it would stall at every stop.

It took about 10-15min (of riding) to warm up sufficiently to turn the tick over back down!
 

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Hey, Im going to purchase a set of Leo Vinces on friday, is it just a case of replacing them with the old ones? Im going to faff around with the K+N's etc later on in the summer, havnt the time etc to do it now.

It wont run lean when i replace them?
 

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Could someone reply to my question please? Buying them today. :thumbright:
If it is just the cans then you MIGHT get away with not rejetting if you keep the quiet baffles in. (a plug chop may be a good idea)

However i wouldn't like to def say so just incase it knacks your engine and you blame me for the rest of your life.....i just couldn't live with that sort of guilt.:thumb:
 

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Hi, I have just put a 160 Bridgestone 020 on mine, it's triple compound so it should last a lot longer (hard in the middle and soft on the edges). It looks a lot better than the skinny original and handles a lot better, much more confident dropping it into corners now and have managed to scrub off the edges no problem. I reckon you will struggle to fit a 180 in the swinging arm as there isn't a great deal of space left in mine. Just as a further update I have rejetted my carb now as I have a full Arrow system and K&n filter. The jets that come with dynojet kit are not big enough so a quick call to dynojet and they sent some bigger ones. I put the bike on my mates Dyno and tried different sizes, plumped for the 170 as it gave a little more torque than the 165. Very happy with the whole set up now, just a shame Honda don't produce them like this!!!!

Hope this helps Rob


P.s also tried 1 tooth extra on the front, still lifts the front wheel buts also make the gears taller so it doesn't scream it's nuts off doing 100+:thumbright:
 

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Hi guys, as an owner of an FMX650 i would like to share this info regarding that stubburn fuel drip from the over flow hose. i made an inspection of the carburator to check the pin in the float bowl if dirt had accumulated, any way it was clean so that was not the cause. after furthur inspection i noticed that the plastic floaters in the float bowl were non adjustable meaning there is no way of adjusting the fuel height in the float bowl, as it is the fuel height set at the stock carb is too high, with this when the the engines are stopped a certain amount of fuel overflows into the over flow hose each time we park. this could have been an easy fix if only the plastic floaters thats moves the pin in the float bowl was adjustable, but we are pretty much stuck with this problem.. what i plan to do now is to buy a carb repair kit with a slightly longer pin. install that pin and inturn will regulate the fuel height in the float bowl to a better level, will let you guys know as soon as i have done this... cheers
 

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with the recent freezing weather i have had to resort to turning the idle speed up, otherwise it would stall at every stop.

It took about 10-15min (of riding) to warm up sufficiently to turn the tick over back down!
I also had this problem with my FMX, try this.. what i did was, i turned the idle fuel mixture screw, bottom of the carb near the intake boot one (1) full turn outwards, counter clockwise. this makes your fuel idle mixture a bit on the richer side and will make cold starting a much easier affair and will minimize the use of the choke at times when you have parked longer than 15mins
 

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Hi guys, as an owner of an FMX650 i would like to share this info regarding that stubburn fuel drip from the over flow hose. i made an inspection of the carburator to check the pin in the float bowl if dirt had accumulated, any way it was clean so that was not the cause. after furthur inspection i noticed that the plastic floaters in the float bowl were non adjustable meaning there is no way of adjusting the fuel height in the float bowl, as it is the fuel height set at the stock carb is too high, with this when the the engines are stopped a certain amount of fuel overflows into the over flow hose each time we park. this could have been an easy fix if only the plastic floaters thats moves the pin in the float bowl was adjustable, but we are pretty much stuck with this problem.. what i plan to do now is to buy a carb repair kit with a slightly longer pin. install that pin and inturn will regulate the fuel height in the float bowl to a better level, will let you guys know as soon as i have done this... cheers
Remember, if you lower the float level you'll also make the mixture leaner.
 
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