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Wing Commander
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14,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just fixed my speedo (I hope).

Putting the front wheel wheel back I noticed that I can knock the forks closer together without impinging on the wheel being able to turn etc. but should I?

Tightened using a torque wrench it would naturally sit flush (pic 1)




But I can knock it a fair way in, leaving the axle sticking out (Pic2)



or anywhere in between.

Advice please.
 

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Older - maybe not wiser!
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131 Posts
I'm no expert, but I'd expect not to apply any sideways force before tightening the clamp - so ensuring that the two fork legs remain unstressed and parallel. If you push them together, wouldn't that be likely to result in them being out of parallel?
The Honda manual for the Alp says to torque the axle, pull on the brake and "bounce" the front forks up and down a few times to seat things, then tighten the clamp plate. Is there any particular reason you'd want the fork closer to the speedo drive?
 

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Wing Commander
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14,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm no expert, but I'd expect not to apply any sideways force before tightening the clamp - so ensuring that the two fork legs remain unstressed and parallel. If you push them together, wouldn't that be likely to result in them being out of parallel?
The Honda manual for the Alp says to torque the axle, pull on the brake and "bounce" the front forks up and down a few times to seat things, then tighten the clamp plate. Is there any particular reason you'd want the fork closer to the speedo drive?
That was what I figured.

Also, those support nuts are not done up very tight so I doubt are meant to take any strain.

And my other bike seems to be find done up flush.

I just wondered what stops the wheel sliding along the axle if there is that much play.
 

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Older - maybe not wiser!
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131 Posts
Hmmm . . .

The Alp is different, 'cos it doesn't have a mechanical speedo drive.

It has a spacer either side of the wheel. There's a small step (i.e. increase in diameter) on the bit of the axle that sits in the clamp - so when you torque up the axle, that step clamps the spacer against the bearing, the bearing against the tube (distance collar, according to the book) inside the hub between the two bearings, the far end of the tube against the other bearing, bearing against spacer and spacer against the other fork leg - so the clamp only needs to hold the end of the axle, and has nothing to do with fixing the position of the wheel along the axle. (That was a heck of a sentence - did it make sense?)

Does your bike have such a step on the end of the axle?
 

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Wing Commander
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14,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmmm . . .

The Alp is different, 'cos it doesn't have a mechanical speedo drive.

It has a spacer either side of the wheel. There's a small step (i.e. increase in diameter) on the bit of the axle that sits in the clamp - so when you torque up the axle, that step clamps the spacer against the bearing, the bearing against the tube (distance collar, according to the book) inside the hub between the two bearings, the far end of the tube against the other bearing, bearing against spacer and spacer against the other fork leg - so the clamp only needs to hold the end of the axle, and has nothing to do with fixing the position of the wheel along the axle. (That was a heck of a sentence - did it make sense?)

Does your bike have such a step on the end of the axle?
Yep.

OK so nothing to even think about - just put it back the way I always have done.

Panic for no reason. Cheers.
 

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How much is the fish?
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422 Posts
You´ll notice that the wheel spindle has 2 steps in it - when you tighten up the spindle, it clamps the wheel between the largest step on the spindle and the opposite side fork leg.
Just check that when you have the spindle tightened up there is no lateral movement of the front wheel - if there´s no movement then it´s fine. If there is movement (I had about 1mm on mine) there´s a chance that the threads in the fork leg are damaged and will need to be retapped.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,040 Posts

The two yellow lines I've added should be in the same place, i.e. the flat step of the axle should be flush with the outside edge of the fork leg. If you move the fork leg either way the discs do not run true.
 
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