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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

Can any one confirm the following for me please:

Honda NX 650 front disc, what are the nut sizes? I think 14mm but the spanner seems a bit lose so want to double check. I have only tried one of the nuts and it already feels like its going to round off. I also tried to loosen the allen bolt but feel like the allen key is going to snap. I have crap tools I know. I'm also a poor workman so blaming my tools is the easiest option.

I'm happy to go shopping today and spend some money to get the right bits. Any one able to let me know what I need?

Thank guys.

Jamie
 

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If you're buying sockets, get the 6-sided full hexagon type rather than the 12-point ones as they're much less likely to round off nuts.

Sorry I can't help with the hex size but according to the parts list it's an 8mm thread.
 

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they may have been treated with a thread lock compound , warming them slightly may help, cannot help with size but as said above six side sockets are best , as are wall drive ones,, as you can see the wall drove opnes grip the flat edges of the nut not the corners

wall drive.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well guys, I have got the nuts and bolts lose. Its a 14mm spanner, no way will a socket fit. One of the nuts now looks damaged so will need to replace that at some point very soon.

Will do the complete job tomorrow, just wanted to get what I anticipated to be the hard part done today. I will try and get some pics and post up at some point next week. Might be helpful for someone.

Thanks for your help guys.

Jamie
 

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Has anyone experienced their front disc rubbing? I've started to notice each rotation of the wheel will produce a noise, even in dry weather
 

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Stone Crazy
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get the front wheel in the air and spin it , watch the disc to see if is warped
 

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going by memory I used a hex bit on an impact driver to remove discs from a FZR 1000 ru when painting the wheels . in hindsight should have sent them to Tallagh powder coating and kept the bike all it needed was the valve clearances checking and a new rocker cover gasket and the exup valve ****ing out and maybe webbing cutting out of the inlet rubbers ? . it had 2 new tyres and a years tax new spark plugs fresh oil and a k&n filter washed and re oiled . purring like a kitten it was but used to die off at 130 mph but it got up there very quick . I only bought it because it was supposed to do 170 mph .

I think the discs were bolted directly on to the wheel it self I used Loctite to put them back on . you can buy them individually in some places as I did . a set of them and a set of tap and dies would be nice things to have I only have a 6mm tap and tap driving tool ,as well as is a impact driver if you only ever used to for the master cylinder cap a tub of copper grease is a good buy too and a wire brush and bit of emery paper make life easy next time round . maybe your calliper just needs a good service the sliding shaft and bush might need a clean and grease up and maybe the pistons . my front calliper started to seize up turns out it was corrosion in the sliding bush it was locked solid .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Front disc removal - Completed with pics.

Front disc and pads now changed, nice day for a test ride as well.

So this is the old disc before removal. Allen key bolt and size 14mm nut on other side of disc hold it to the wheel.








Speedo cable removed, don't forget to put the speedo unit back on when refitting the wheel. I knew something was missing while tightening the axle. :rolleyes:




c


14mm nuts, hard to get a ring spanner on these but managed after a bit of brute force. Almost rounded one of the buts which I need to replace. New one on order.



Allen key removing pad retaining pins.





While the old pads were still in place I used these to protect the pistons while I compressed them back into the caliper. These went in really easy.



New disc and pads fitted ready to roll.



How not to jack the bike up and work on it. I will buy a proper means to do this for the next big DIY task.



Well its always a bit daunting when doing what I perceive to be a big task like this. I did use to be car mechanic over twenty years ago but sat at an office desk ever since. I must admit getting back into these repairs and maintenance is good fun. Next job will be to replace the chain, still not sure about this at the moment.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

Jamie
 

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Hey Jamie, nice post!
I had to jack mine up with a trolley jack and block of wood today, really scary stuff!
I bought a rear paddock stand for under £20 on eBay the other day and really recommend getting one, it will be essential for doing the chain. I will be getting a front one asap.
I noticed you have gaiters, were these easy to install?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wouldn't recommend jacking up this way but did make sure everything was as solid as could be and wouldn't move:cool: yes it was scary at times although I also made sure most of the bolts/nuts were lose before lifting the bike.

Gators, assuming you are talking about the black things on the shocks they came with the bike. Let me know if you are talking about something else? I seem to be well out of the loop these days with regards to bike terminology. Even the hello nod has changed since I last had a bike!

Glad you liked the post, I always have in mind to do some epic great step by step guide but when I start working on the bike just want to get it finished. Plus I don't want to get my camera covered in muck.
 

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Posts like these are always helpful because there isn't a lot of information out there with regards to these particular bikes. Step by step guides will help noobs like me massively!
Yes, the gaiters are also known as fork boots and basically extend the life of your fork dust protectors/seals and I guess they can protect your forks from stone chippings. I personally think gaiters give a nice scrambler look too
 

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I have one similar to this, which I use mainly for "classic" bikes but was very useful in my recent lowering exercise on the SLR:



Its advantages over the bench type are cost (around £65 if you shop around); storage (folded flat it rests against the garage wall) and the fact that you can shove the whole plot from side to side if (like mine) your garage is limited in space.

It locks into position with those little angled struts so you're not reliant on the hydraulics if the bike's on it for long periods.

I'm too old & inflexible to go grovelling around on the deck these days.
 

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Stone Crazy
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i think you are away with the mixer john
 

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Very nice. Wait a minute, I recognise that seat and suspension!

Here's the current state of my shed fettler. A 1959 Excelsior Consort:

image.jpg
 

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I don't like to mention this but isn't there something missing?

I would have thought 1950s Excelsiors would have had teles (even if a bit rudimentary).

But nice work so far. My Sunbeam is slowly being refreshed (restored is too strong a word) ready for launching on an unsuspecting world in the Spring.
 

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They introduced teles to that model in 1960.

Mine in a F4S. Stopped in 54, then introduced for two years 57-59..

But even that bit of info confuses me! DVLA says 1954. Previous owner thinks 59.

I understand the F4S is supposed to have plunger rear, but my frame says F4S!!!

In fact I think all the history is made up!!!
 
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