I had a pair of forks on my old 650 that were in a pretty bad way, I removed the old lacquer polished them with a buffing wheel and then refinished them with a quality clear lacquer from a can, they ended up looking as good as new.
If your after an OEM finish for not a lot of money then this is an option you could consider.
Painting - you don't need to strip the internals - just mask off dust seal, stanchions and bolt thread holes (I've used blu-tac) - can be done on the bike > Here's how I did VTR forks almost a decade ago Painting Forks and Easter Eggs - VTR1000.ORG
Powder coat - everthing needs stripping out as forklegs would need baking in an oven to cure paint + thoroughly cleaning out any grit ingested from prep by blasting, before rebuilding.
Depends on the standard and depth of refurbishing you want to to accomplish.
Well so far ive had frame, swing arm etc powder coated, wheels powder coated and rebuilt. I currently got engine cases off and being sprayed, so i think forks will look out of place if i dont do anything with them.
So i'l probably strip and service them, and then get them painted.
If they are stripped would you recommend powder coat over spray paint?
"If they are stripped would you recommend powder coat over spray paint?"
Best ask the powder coaters what they recommend - though I'd be surprised if they'd do PC onto paint . Usual process is that it is blasted back to metal and PC is applied electrostatically before it's baked.
Powder coating is great It's the most durable. Until you get a chip. Then you can't do anything about that chip. Moisture gets under it and it will peel. You can flat it out and paint over it I guess but it's not easy.
I've also had them professionally painted with a 2pac lacquer. That looks the best. But again, once you get a chip then you're back to needing it done again. And all the bother of stripping your forks.
What I do now is shot blast the fork leg and paint it with good old fashioned Hammerite smooth. It looks 90% as good as 2pac and on par with powder.
It's durable too. Better than paint on brand new bikes if I'm honest. Engines I did with it are still in great shape years later. More you can say than a new BMW.
Best thing by far is that you can forever touch it up easily. Clean them down, a quick rub over with fine wet and dry paper and give them a few blasts with an aerosol or touch up with a modelling paintbrush. It's really user friendly to keep looking fresh.
The absolute key to any good finish is prep. It can not be overstated enough.
I shot blast all parts before I even think about painting. Having a clean, blasted base metal is the thing that paint dreams of.
I just done the front brake caliper on my XR400 with hammerite, sand blasted first then sprayed only thing i didnt like was my impatience three coats in a day then rebuilt it the next should have left it a week to let it cure still pleased with the end result and i'm shit at painting
After change of clutch plates and springs on my AT RD04 750 1992 there is strange problem. When accelerating in first gear there is grinding sound (metal on metal). It starts at the moment of clutch release and last for one or two seconds. No problems in other gears or at any other...
3 days ago · #23
We’ll haven’t had much chance to work on my bike lately, just went out to have a look and plan some tasks and noticed that I got oil leaking from the strainer?
I refitted the oil strainer with new o-ring and did it up as tight as I could but didn’t not have my torque wrench at...
I have had my share of fuel pump woes in the past on my '99 @ and now I feel I have finally solved them with the recent install of this US made solid state Facet pump. Model # 40105
The original OEM pump failed after the contacts burned out. Probably not a 'bad' pump once it was modified for a...
Im Looking for tank badges/logo for my CG125 tank.
The spacing between screw mounting holes is 60mm, but all the badges i can find on fleabay are 67mm spacing between holes.
Anyone bought any of these in the past for their CG125 tank with 60mm hole spacing?
I have removed my fuel tap off my CG125 tank, and the in the hole where the fuel tap goes, there seems to be a plastic insert (looks like a tube).
Can this be removed?
Need to get everything removed before i flush out tank.
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