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Discussion Starter #1
Morning all,

My front brake caliper has two grub screws covering the brake pad retaining pins. These little screws will not budge. Penetrating oil, hammer and punch, and heat have all failed.

Just wondering if anyone has a suggestion before I get the drill out?

Griff.
 

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geriatric
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2,474 Posts
I've seen this a few times. The only thing I would advise is always use the best quality,best fitting screw drivers and allen keys at the outset. once the grooves/slots have been butchered with badly fitting screwdrivers and then chisels etc it is a major job to drill out risking damage to the caliper casting. I would say try some butane on it, it makes the grub screw instantly freeze and much colder than the caliper,get a decent screw driver bit that fits tight and give it a good cracking twist with maybe some mole grips or a spanner attached to the screwdriver handle for leverage.
Apart from that good luck with the drill and be careful.
 

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hedgerow specialist...
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1,398 Posts
hi
I had to use a impact driver and a good wallop at that, then when replaced used copper slip never had a problem since, what about a small drill as they aint that deep and the alen keys behind them ,then use a easy out.

best of luck cause lack of maintenance:(
 

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I think a screwdriver which is tight fitting and a good grip for twisting is best.
If it is like putty then it has had it and will need careful extraction and replacing.
 

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The Angry Pasty Muncher
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I think a screwdriver which is tight fitting and a good grip for twisting is best.
If it is like putty then it has had it and will need careful extraction and replacing.

Got too agree with that most problems i've seen are caused by people using the wrong size screwdrivers and poor quality tools which flare the slot out. When i remove mine i always run tap down the hole and put the grub screw through a die and lag it all with copper / ali ease. Only once i ever had to knock one around with a chisel to ease it out as the head was so badly worn.
 

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Tenacious Member
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Had this problem myself on the XR - impact driver worked for me.

Also used plenty copper grease on re-assembly as a precaution.
 

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Griff i had the exact same problem as you, i tried an impact hammer and it took a chunk off the cap screw :banghead: i eventually got them out using a 'extraction screw', can not remember the exact name basically it's a left handed screw which you drill into the head, take it nice and easy. You can get them from screw fix for a couple of £
 

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bike nut
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Griff i had the exact same problem as you, i tried an impact hammer and it took a chunk off the cap screw :banghead: i eventually got them out using a 'extraction screw', can not remember the exact name basically it's a left handed screw which you drill into the head, take it nice and easy. You can get them from screw fix for a couple of £
like this

Rolson 5 Piece Screw Extractor Stud Bolt Tap Remover on eBay (end time 30-Mar-10 18:34:37 BST)

and

Stud Extractor Set 8 Pc - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

i had this problem before and i used the impact hammer, worked a treat, depends how badly mashed up the head is.

good luck
 

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Premium Member
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7,170 Posts
Ensure you've used penetrating fluid, or a bit of local heat. Pouring boiled water slowly from a kettle onto the caliper area around the cap, but avoiding the cap if possible.

Get a screwdriver with a square shaft, or some of them have a hex section at the base of the handle. THESE ARE THE ONES I HAVE and you can fit a socket wrench on top of them for massive leverage and they have a hex shaft as well. £12.95 for the complete set at QVS




Make sure it fits perfectly in the slot of the grub screw/dust cap

Put a spanner or grips on the screwdriver shaft, lean into it, and turn with all your might!

East peesy lemon squeezy!




Bob :thumbup:
 

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geriatric
Joined
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2,474 Posts
I've seen this a few times. The only thing I would advise is always use the best quality,best fitting screw drivers and allen keys at the outset. once the grooves/slots have been butchered with badly fitting screwdrivers and then chisels etc it is a major job to drill out risking damage to the caliper casting. I would say try some butane on it, it makes the grub screw instantly freeze and much colder than the caliper,get a decent screw driver bit that fits tight and give it a good cracking twist with maybe some mole grips or a spanner attached to the screwdriver handle for leverage.
Apart from that good luck with the drill and be careful.
Ensure you've used penetrating fluid, or a bit of local heat. Pouring boiled water slowly from a kettle onto the caliper area around the cap, but avoiding the cap if possible.

Get a screwdriver with a square shaft, or some of them have a hex section at the base of the handle. THESE ARE THE ONES I HAVE and you can fit a socket wrench on top of them for massive leverage and they have a hex shaft as well. £12.95 for the complete set at QVS




Make sure it fits perfectly in the slot of the grub screw/dust cap

Put a spanner or grips on the screwdriver shaft, lean into it, and turn with all your might!

East peesy lemon squeezy!


Bob :thumbup:



great moinds t'inking aloike eh bob?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A big thanks to all.

The stud extracters look like the go.

Anyway, today is drill day...:banghead::banghead:
 

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The Angry Pasty Muncher
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A big thanks to all.

The stud extracters look like the go.

Anyway, today is drill day...:banghead::banghead:
the grub screw isn't deep enough to get an easyout in far enough to do anything
 

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Registered
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like this

Rolson 5 Piece Screw Extractor Stud Bolt Tap Remover on eBay (end time 30-Mar-10 18:34:37 BST)

and

Stud Extractor Set 8 Pc - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

i had this problem before and i used the impact hammer, worked a treat, depends how badly mashed up the head is.

good luck
Yip was like those, worked a treat used the smallest one and attached it to the drill and out she came. Now use plenty of copper slip tighten up and then back off quarter turn, never been an issue again. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After deciding that I didn't have the correct tools for the job I started looking for a second hand caliper. The grub screws had turned to cheese.

Couldn't find one anywhere. Just thought I'd ask Mr Honda how much a new one would be:confused:. Needless to say I declined their offer.

Bloke in the Honda shop is pretty good though and said he was confident his engineer could get them out for a small fee.

So, that's what ocurred. After a soak overnight in a magic solution, many tools, a pillar drill and copious amounts of cursing (his words) they came out and he put new seals and bleed nipple on all for £54. Stoked.

Steps have been taken to avoid this on the next pad change and I reckon with the amount of miles I do on my 91 TA I'll be back for more advice.

The new caliper from Honda would have cost me £354.95 + vat.:confused2:

Cheers and Tally Ho all.

Griff.
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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6,031 Posts
After deciding that I didn't have the correct tools for the job I started looking for a second hand caliper. The grub screws had turned to cheese.

Couldn't find one anywhere. Just thought I'd ask Mr Honda how much a new one would be:confused:. Needless to say I declined their offer.

Bloke in the Honda shop is pretty good though and said he was confident his engineer could get them out for a small fee.

So, that's what ocurred. After a soak overnight in a magic solution, many tools, a pillar drill and copious amounts of cursing (his words) they came out and he put new seals and bleed nipple on all for £54. Stoked.

Steps have been taken to avoid this on the next pad change and I reckon with the amount of miles I do on my 91 TA I'll be back for more advice.

The new caliper from Honda would have cost me £354.95 + vat.:confused2:

Cheers and Tally Ho all.

Griff.
Leave the plugs off completely.

They are there to keep the thread clear of mud when removing the pad pins I assume. I only put my pad pins in with the long arm of the allen key, so not too tight, and I use plenty of coppa slip. I've done mega miles and have never had a pad pin loosen. They always come out easily too and I ride through all the winter salt, crap, mud, blood and tears. Ask anyone unfortunate enough to lean against my bike in clean clothes.

Same with the crankcase end plugs, people do them up too tight and then round them out trying to remove them at service time (not just this bike, I've seen loads of DR350s with caliper and crankcase end plug woes).
 
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