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Can anyone recommend hand guards for the above bike. Snapped my hand brake lever ( but managed to manufacture a mock-up for now) Looking at the twist grip there doesn't seem to be provisions for fixing a two point gaurd, which I would prefer (more solid) It seems to be a closed off tube. Can this be drilled to take the fixing of a two point hand guard.

any manufacturer recommendation for a 14t front sprocket? or should I do the lowering of the gearing on the rear sprocket. If so what should it be? Will this require a new chain>

All in preparation for using this new bike in off road situations.

What would be the recommendation for a useful crash bar?
 

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Best to stick to Honda front sprocket as this has a rubber insert which helps protect the shaft.Aftermarket sprockets will not come with this. The gearbox shaft on a T/a is a known weak point.
Good luck with mods
 

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Jt sprockets now do rubber damped versions of most of their fitments for road bikes.
But I'd stick wih oem.

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Hi There are scores of commets regards the weakness of the tranfer shaft of the TR. If changing the front sprocket isnt wise then it seems that the rear one is perhaps a safer bet. I have no knowledge of what size I should get to get the same reduction in gearing as I would from changing the front one. I would image that a new longer chain would be required. or added links? Info on thatwould be appricated.
 

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Excuse me while I climb up here on my soapbox:
The gearbox shaft on the 650 (or any other Transalp) isn't a weak point. The practice of treating Transalps as road bikes and overtensioning the chain is the weakpoint i.e. human error.
My '03 650 was purchased new by me in '04, has had exactly 2 genuine Honda front sprockets (they were so new to Oz that no aftermarket XL650V front sprockets were yet available when mine needed new ones) in 14 years, over 170,000km and at least 8 front sprocket changes. I have had cause to loosen the chain on a number of occasions, usually after tyre changes and services, and my countershaft is still original and in good condition.
Any decent brand of sprocket manufacturer will have them. And it is far easier to take 1 or 2 teeth off the front sprocket than to add 3 or 6 teeth to the rear. I run 16 to 47 for normal work. When I used to trail ride regularly I also kept a 14 front in the toolbox as this was a simple and effective change that worked.
 

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The reason that overtensioning the chain wears the countershaft is that these bikes have fairly long rear suspension travel, and chain tightens because the distance between the sprockets lengthens as the rear compresses. The chain must still have a little slack in it when the rear shock bottoms or it will cause the front sprocket to cut into the countershaft. The myth of needing a genuine front sprocket is just that and in '06 when I fitted one I paid a AU$25 premium for the genuine one when a non-genuine was unobtainable.
The moral of my rant is - Check your chain tension every time your TA comes out of the shop, or you play with the rear wheel position. And if it feels funny / wrong when your rear suspension compresses, check the chain, it is better for it to be a bit baggy rather than a bit tight.
 

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Hi There are scores of commets regards the weakness of the tranfer shaft of the TR. If changing the front sprocket isnt wise then it seems that the rear one is perhaps a safer bet. I have no knowledge of what size I should get to get the same reduction in gearing as I would from changing the front one. I would image that a new longer chain would be required. or added links? Info on thatwould be appricated.
No prob swapping front sprockets although I always fit oem - it's vital they are fitted the right way round, too many aren't....

1t larger on the front is roughly equal to 3t less on the rear (raise gearing).
You will need to change chain length with a 3t different rear but not a 1t front.


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