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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

Any recommendations for a replacement head bearing?

This one any good? Honda NX 650 T Dominator RD08 (Nissin Front Caliper) 96 Tapered Headrace Bearing Set (Japan) Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer

Also can you confirm, if I am to get the frame powder coated in August, can the part of the bearing that stays in the frame remain in the frame or would I need to try and remove without damaging? I think the head bearing has gone which is why I need to replace now.

Basically if I let go of the bars at speed there is a lot of wheel wobble which according to you tube is a sign the head bearing is going going gone and also it feels a bit notchy. The notchy feeling could be something to do with my spot wiring but don't think it is. I will be getting the bike in the air on Friday and think I will attempt to change the head bearing.

Looking on you tube I don't seem to need any special tools, just a drift, hammer and possible a dremmel if I get stuck. If it doesn't work out I guess I can just start my refurb a few months early.
 

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You could get the bearings here if you know the size,I find Wemoto to be expensive and sometimes not genuine parts but chinese copy,s

Taper Roller Bearings: Metric & Imperial Sized Tapered Roller Bearings.

Its not a hard job removing the bits you dont need from the steering head ,if a small hammer dont work ,just use a bigger one.;););)
I noticed a serious improvement in the handling on my Dommie..
Dont forget to use loads of the correct grease when you fit the new taper roller bearing in.:thumbup:
 

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You can leave the races in place, just make sure they are blanked off with a couple of pieces of flat stock and a length of threaded bar to hold them in place.
Are you going to have the frame blasted before painting?
Be very careful with how the oil tank and associated fittings is blanked off, the last thing you need is for blast media to find its way into the oil system.
Have a think about soda blasting its more gentle and doesn't promote flash rust like sand or grit.
One more thing if you feel up to the task think about drilling and tapping the headstock for a grease nipple, you can then pump grease into them every few rides, keeps the dirt and water out.
Don't worry about the frame getting hot and the grease dripping out either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm planning on getting the frame and the swing arm and probably the rear light mount and headlight mount blasted and painted during August. Not 100% sure what method of blasting is used but will be looking for a recommended company near Sidcup in Kent when I'm ready. Just want to make sure the races, if left in the head wont be damaged. I supposed for £30 I could just replace again but don't want to waste money.

I had originally planned to do more of a refurb of the bike but the new one has cost me a lot with all the extra security and insurance etc.

I will make sure all the appropriate bits are blanked off thoroughly and make sure the people blasting and painting are fully aware of the oil in frame.

thanks guys..
 

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Just reading this post and will also be having a frame blasted and powder coated soon (hopefully haha).
How do you recommend blanking of the oil pipes etc in frame??
 

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I haven't done it, If I did I'd be using lots of rubber hosing and bolts in all holes , I'm not a fan of powdercoat TBH, I prefer the look of conventional paint and if you chip or scratch powdercoat you can't just touch it up.
Genuine John Deere Alkyd Enamel is some seriously tough paint, cheap enough for good paint if you want to go that road.
 

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Jamie.

When I changed the head bearing on my bike the race came out and didn't appear to have any damage what so ever. However if you are planning on coating the frame soon I would just get it done before replacing the head bearings. I've had a few things coated in the past and the good guys seal up any threaded parts of the frame and bearing seats, the shit ones don't. I now just ask what they will be doing before I hand it over to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One other thing, what type of grease? the red stuff or the LM stuff?
 

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One other thing, what type of grease? the red stuff or the LM stuff?
Just use what you can lay your hands on, it dont have to be high temperature or any special type.
Just make sure you use loads as i doubt you will be seeing them again once they are done...:thumbup:
 

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I'd be bloody careful masking off the oil tank connections - personally I wouldn't allow blasting media anywhere near an OIF motorcycle frame.

On the H/S bearings pretty much any set will be OK, I factor in bi-annual replacement anyway. The only hard bit is getting the lower race off the bottom yolk. I apply a lot of heat and use a blunted cold chisel to get it going, then use a bearing puller to remove it. The heat will destroy the lower rubber seal but your new bearing kit should come with a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No joke that is the worst job I have ever done and its not over yet.

Before taking in a task I do plenty of research and watch a number of youtube videos, read forums blogs etc. Every single one has mentioned a lip on the frame races that you can hook up a chisel or screw driver to drive the race out. I'm not kidding you there was no lip or if we are going to split hairs no lip of any use.

I have had a complete and utter nightmare getting the races out of the frame. I have had to take a break as I had to pick my daughter up from nursery but will be back in the garage as soon as the other half gets in.

I thought getting the bearing race of the yoke was fairly straight forward compared to the frame ones. I would never recommend this job to anyone!

OK its probably like child birth or running a marathon, in a few weeks I will forget the stress and consider doing this sort of job again if me and the bike live long enough. So for all you Dominator head bearing non virgins, how the hell did you get the races out of the frame?

At the moment the bike is sitting on a box, forks back on, bars on lose, I just need to put the brakes back on, reroute the clutch cable and sort a few other bits. Once off the box fuel tank back on and fairings and test ride. Probably do the test ride tomorrow, well it will be as I am running out of time today.

I was going to replace all the bulbs in the dash as well while the fairings are off.

Would really like to hear hhow you folks get your races out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No joke that is the worst job I have ever done and its not over yet.

Before taking in a task I do plenty of research and watch a number of youtube videos, read forums blogs etc. Every single one has mentioned a lip on the frame races that you can hook up a chisel or screw driver to drive the race out. I'm not kidding you there was no lip or if we are going to split hairs no lip of any use.

I have had a complete and utter nightmare getting the races out of the frame. I have had to take a break as I had to pick my daughter up from nursery but will be back in the garage as soon as the other half gets in.

I thought getting the bearing race of the yoke was fairly straight forward compared to the frame ones. I would never recommend this job to anyone!OK its probably like child birth or running a marathon, in a few weeks I will forget the stress and consider doing this sort of job again if me and the bike live long enough. So for all you Dominator head bearing non virgins, how the hell did you get the races out of the frame?

At the moment the bike is sitting on a box, forks back on, bars on lose, I just need to put the brakes back on, reroute the clutch cable and sort a few other bits. Once off the box fuel tank back on and fairings and test ride. Probably do the test ride tomorrow, well it will be as I am running out of time today. I was going to replace all the bulbs in the dash as well while the fairings are off
Would really like to hear how you folks get your races out?
 

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Shite, it sound like you had a nightmare mate. I suppose I was just lucky and it's down to the individual bearing race and variations in manufacturers. The more taper they have, the more meat you have to swing a hammer at. Maybe the ones on my bike had been changed before as I remember that when I bought them they were advertised as an improvement on the originals.

The roller bearing on the yoke was stuck on fast, I cut a grove in it with a dremel and gave it a good smack with a cold chisel. A few good smacks and the casting just brakes and comes lose.

Yes telling the tale was easier than the job itself, but there's no satisfaction if there's no blood, snot, tears and swearing. I garentee the next time will be easier. :thumb:

That's what the wife said as well.
 

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I have seen it before where after market bearing cups don't sit proud of the headstock tube and therefore don't present any lip to get a drift onto.
In the past I've used a die grinder (big dremmel) to cut a groove in the cup and relieve some of the tension. Also I've welded a bar across the race and then used the bar to drift the race out from above.
Agreed though, for me headstock bearing replacement is my least favourite of any repair job on a motorcycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Last night I spent some more time reading up on bearing race removal from the head/frame. Looks like having a welder to hand would have made the job a lot simpler. Maybe next time I will have one to hand.

The great news is, no more wheel wobble. OK let me explain, while researching my refurb project I was looking up thee head bearings and read a notchy feel means replacement is required as is handle bar wobble if you take your hands off at speed. For a while the bearing has felt notchy but then I wasnt sure if I was imagining things as the bike past its MOT. When I learnt about the bar/wheel wobble test I tried this and yes my bike had that symptom as well.

The bottom race had a lot of marks and clearly needed replacing. So I was partially happy yesterday the job did need doing. This morning I put the rest of the bike back together and road tested. Removed my hands at speed and no wobble. :thumbright: Very happy man today, all the grief was worth it and fixed a problem.

Next up, replace all the fairing mounts (screws) as the vibration and noise of plastic rattling is getting annoying. Nice easy cheap job.
 

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A good bead of weld around the inner part of a race will often allow it to drop out when cooled, if it doesn't come loose then do another one, the heat helps and the subsequent shrinkage of the weld will pull the cup inwards.
 
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