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Can anyone give me a specific part number (SKF or the like) of the Head Bearings?
Downunder there are very few AT's and as it's daily transport, would like to have the parts before stripping.

And if anyone has done it, can you recommend any tools out of the ordinary - and any other tips worth knowing about.

Cheers
 

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Have a look at page nine of the posts,loads of articles posted about changing head bearings,sorry no idea of bearing numbers.
cheers :) ps have a look at page 10 of the posts under the heading sschh mk2 it might be of help in changing bearings.
 

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twinadventurer said:
And if anyone has done it, can you recommend any tools out of the ordinary - and any other tips worth knowing about.

Cheers
As well as the bearings get a bottom dust seal too, you'll probably destroy the old one getting the bearings out.
 

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Honda has the world wide rights to that size of bearing (bless them :?).

That's assuming that they are the same as fitted to an Alp, as such won't be available from a regular bearing supplier.

It's either Honda or an "aftermarket" m/c parts supplier (who I assume will pay honda for the rights to sell "their" size of bearing"

Don't know what other bikes in Honda's range will have compatible bearings.

Phil
 

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Hmm. Further to that thread I found out around a week or two ago that the new OE bearings have again developed notches! This comes around 10,000 after I fitted them, and this time I'm pretty sure it's not related to anything I did wrong in the fitting (last time I used molasses rather than grease). Tension was fine too.

This time I went ahead and ordered a set of taper roller bearings from Wemoto - these come with a new dust seal as part of the deal, although I also ordered a new one from David Silver. Let's hope the taper roller bearings are better! The trouble is that the taper roller bearing part itself looks like it will be hard to drive onto the steering stem without being damaged. Obviously a proper bearing driver of the right size would be the thing, or a peice of properly proportioned tube to the same effect. Normally I use the chrome cover of a TA exhaust to drive one side of the race at a time (the curvature of the cover at least ensures a better distribution of the force), but that method would certainly hit the top of the cage in this case.

If anyone out there has fitted these bearings (I know some of you have) what did you use?

Cheers,

Stig
 

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Generalissimo Tea Boy
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Lord Stig said:
Hmm. Further to that thread I found out around a week or two ago that the new OE bearings have again developed notches! This comes around 10,000 after I fitted them, and this time I'm pretty sure it's not related to anything I did wrong in the fitting (last time I used molasses rather than grease). Tension was fine too.

This time I went ahead and ordered a set of taper roller bearings from Wemoto - these come with a new dust seal as part of the deal, although I also ordered a new one from David Silver. Let's hope the taper roller bearings are better! The trouble is that the taper roller bearing part itself looks like it will be hard to drive onto the steering stem without being damaged. Obviously a proper bearing driver of the right size would be the thing, or a peice of properly proportioned tube to the same effect. Normally I use the chrome cover of a TA exhaust to drive one side of the race at a time (the curvature of the cover at least ensures a better distribution of the force), but that method would certainly hit the top of the cage in this case.

If anyone out there has fitted these bearings (I know some of you have) what did you use?

Cheers,

Stig
Hoover tube is ideal. Don't tell the wife and hide it after.
 

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Yen,

Hadn't thought of hoover tube! Is it strong enough? It must be if you've tried it....

Stig
 

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Even cheap poor quality OE bearing should not develop notches after 10000 miles. There does sound like something else is amis there. Are you sure you didn't over-tighen them or use insufficient grease and are the dust seals in good order. You should replace the bearings together and they should come as a cartridge system and replace the whole assembly at the same time.

Make sure they are perfectly flush inside the headstock and properly driven down to the lip. Use a decent amount of lithium based grease but not too much as this will pack the bearings and give an incorrect tension when tighening up. Checking the straighness of your stem with a flat rule wouldn't go amiss too.

A common misconception is people thinking the bearings should be done up tight. The top dust seal should still be able to spin around (although stiffly) when the top nut is fitted.

After a few rides then after every 1000 odd miles of riding, the bearings should be nipped up tighter still to take out any slack which would of occurred in the bedding in period.
 

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If you want use the originalbearings --> Honda has made a kit of those steering bearings, unfortunately they are ball bearings but also dust seals are included. Price isn't bad at all...here in Finland whole kit cost 33,73€ without taxes.

If someone is interested, heres the productnumber: 06911-MCB-020
 

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Lord Stig said:
Yen,

Hadn't thought of hoover tube! Is it strong enough? It must be if you've tried it....

Stig
Well, I burred up the end a bit but yes the aluminium tube that came with my vacuum cleaner worked okay, although I now have a bit of tubing specially for the job. What you want is a nice visit to the local scrap metal yard and ask for a few bits of steel tube, a few different diameters and a little bit longer than the stem.
 

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Well, I found out why the bearings had notched. It seems the lower seal (new) had been damaged when I fitted the lower race - at least that's when it must have happened. I didn't notice the damage at the time, and both the lower and upper bearings had obviously been affected by salt. Odd that my makeshift inner tube bodge seal I made for the bearings before these worked really well!

The taper roller ones went in fine, and Yen you're quite right, the chromed steel tube from my Henry was a good fit. I decided not to risk ruining it by walloping it hard though, and managed to get by using a big screwdriver as a drift. Compared with ball-type bearings, the taper versions seem to be exceptionally easy to tension. The bike's handling is transformed once again. Note that the Wemoto taper roller bearing kit comes with only one new seal, but most of the time only the bottom on needs doing anyway. As it happened I ordered an extra Honda seal from David Silver, so I was able to do both anyway.

Stig
 

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Lord Stig said:
Well, I found out why the bearings had notched. It seems the lower seal (new) had been damaged when I fitted the lower race - at least that's when it must have happened. I didn't notice the damage at the time, and both the lower and upper bearings had obviously been affected by salt. Odd that my makeshift inner tube bodge seal I made for the bearings before these worked really well!

The taper roller ones went in fine, and Yen you're quite right, the chromed steel tube from my Henry was a good fit. I decided not to risk ruining it by walloping it hard though, and managed to get by using a big screwdriver as a drift. Compared with ball-type bearings, the taper versions seem to be exceptionally easy to tension. The bike's handling is transformed once again. Note that the Wemoto taper roller bearing kit comes with only one new seal, but most of the time only the bottom on needs doing anyway. As it happened I ordered an extra Honda seal from David Silver, so I was able to do both anyway.

Stig
Glad it went well, but using a Henry tube is a bit much. They have faces so it don't seem right somehow......
 

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Yeah, and although the tube originates where the nose is supposed to be it somehow resembles some other bodily part more....

Stig
 

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Just to confirm, you only get one seal with the Wemoto kit but generally the top one is okay anyway. It's the bottom one that gets knackered getting the old bearing off.
 
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