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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there much extra power on an RD03 for lights etc? May be selling my concours c14 and would like to hookup the led driving lights it has on it to the AT. Also would like a couple accessories outlets . I have an eastern beaver fuse box setup I would run everything through. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a monitor although haven't installed yet as I just got the bike. Output sounds better though than my anemic Klr650. The AT has been converted to H4 headlights so I may try to install a dual HID setup I have as one way to save power, has anyone here tried an HID headlight swap ? Just wish the bike wasn't in one state while I'm in another
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The kit I have has separate slim ballasts from the bulbs. Works good on my concours 1400. Draws power on startup from battery through a separate relay . Its an extra kit I got for cheap from a friend who sold his bike before installing. Worth a shot although with the old reflectors hard to say how it will light up. It's from A & R motorsports stateside
 

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Bought some H4-3 HIDs, fitted them, removed them immediately. Lousy pattern. ;-)
 

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I'll be going for LED bulbs when it's time. Hid type not only should have levelling but fitment is hit or miss. Power requirements are higher than LED.

I tried HID years ago on the Twin but it didn't work well. LED bulbs can easily put out more light than STD and offer good beam patterns even tho on some the dip is on with the main beam.
 

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Very interested to see the results of your findings.
Me too. I hope that the low beams are separate from the high beams. I don't want them both together. My current H4s with halogen bulbs are set to have either the low beams, or the high beams. Never together, unless I press on the FLASH button on the left.
 

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There's currently no correct HID H4 bulb on the market. H4-2, H4-3 or H4-4 all suck. Some LED H4 are better. Some suck.

I just bought those below and will report soon. They are the only ones I found that have the same light source configuration as an H4 bulb.

2 x 9003 H4 High Power CREE XML2 Chips 80W Xenon 6500K White LED Headlight Hi Lo | eBay

Those are the same bulbs that I ordered and installed last month. They are a Very tight fit with that big fan cooled part sticking out the back, but with some pushing and shoving of the wiring harness mess behind my cowl, they did eventually find a home. The brightness is good, but not spectacular. And they have a decent low beam so I have not been flashed by oncoming traffic. The great part is the savings in power consumption, so I just picked up a heated jacket liner last week. I had to do something with all that wasted power!
 

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With low power consumption dip and main together shouldn't be any issue?

On brightness, they won't be a lot brighter, a whiter light might be better, if you want more main beam light you can add some decent spots. On dip you are limited by beam pattern.

There's quite a lot said about LED bulbs in the tvr forum.
 

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With low power consumption dip and main together shouldn't be any issue?
The problem I have with main and dip running together isn't the consumption. It is that there is so much light on the foreground that the eye has a hard time seeing what is far away as the eye filters down the amount of light.
 

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Does that happen?

If it did I would argue switching from dip to main would be an issue. With a contrast ratio of about 1000:1 your eye copes fine.

The only effect I think you would notice is that the distance illuminated would extend instead of flip far or near when switching back and forth. The diffence in light levels isn't massive between main and dip. Also the light levels are still really low if you are behind the light source, and reflected light is likely to be more of an issue on main rather than dip.
 

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I just received them. I installed one and held it in place by hand because I can't pass the retaining clip over the big heat sink. As I feared, when actuating the main, the dip stays on. Not what I wan. It starts bad. Also, I can't pass the clip over the big heatsink as mentionned, and I can't take the bulb apart by unscrewing the heatsink to allow the clip to pass, and to install the big rubber grommet to seal the back of the lamp. So, there's not much positive to say about those. Will return to quality halogen bulbs.

CORRECTION - I was able to remove the base from the bulb. It was then easier to install the base to the back of the reflector. The clip was easy to fit. Then the big rubber protection. At that point, just insert the LED bulb.
 

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What was the dip pattern like?
Good.The cut-off is not as sharp as with a standard bulb, but it is overall good. The 3 leds on top seem to be on.
 

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Well, it finally stopped raining here so I rolled the bike outside to try and get some night time photos of how these LED bulbs work.

On the Low beams:


High Beams:


Against the garage door on Low:



On High Beam:
 
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