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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought it was simply a dead battery last week - and it was, as tested and the fact that it boiled way when the bike ran - fitted new battery but charge over terminals when bike running was 13.4v - not enough to charge battery - took it out for a long ride tonight and lo and behold, boiling hot rec/reg and cool battery, but not enough charge to turn the bike over.

I know there are a couple of threds running n this subject at the mo but I found this: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
Which I though you guys might like and ..... Charging System Diagnostic - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade.

Which might be of help it also gives the OEM part number of the Yamahahahahaha item which you can search for asI find the FH**** numbers are hard to search on.

HTH
 

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Now on a BMW R1100RS.
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Ach, futter you're not having much luck with this regyrec thing are you.
I would like to say something useful but all I can do is rebuild lawnmower engines so in the meantime...


If you could mount this big leafblower to cool the regyrec then I think your problem may be solved! :D:D:D
 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
To be honest if I can get this - 715895 Regulator Rectifier Honda XRV750 L-N Africa Twin on eBay (end time 26-Oct-10 11:15:52 BST) new off ebay, add a nice ally heatsink behind it, I may well just do that - the original has lasted 18yrs.

I am going to trace the whole system from the generator up to the rec/reg and look at the coild and all other connections as well but for the hassle of retrofitting a yamahaha item or whatever, fiddlearsing about with connectors it just doesn't seem worth it!
 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Following the flow chart in the link above, how could the rec/reg get damaged/fail?

Does it burn out inside due to a knackered battery? Cos mine was, would that therefore not allow the rec/reg to feed power, overheat and burn out?

Should I be checking the generator? Also have seen the suggestion of coils etc - soryy but am complete numpty on electrics!
 

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13.4 V is bit weak. You want to see 14 V-15 V . It's 18 years old so it served the bike well. Time for a new one. Their are some wiring checks you can do as per Haynes Elect. System 9-33 if your handy with the multimeter.

I bought one here. Scroll to the bottom to see the AT.

Regulator Rectifiers - T.E. Motorcycle Spares
 

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Regs in a nut shell……

If it’s the old style r/r this has 8 wire.. the new ones ( FET ) have 5


old

3 yellow wires AC from the Alternator
2 negative wires
2 positive wires
1 black wire

The Black wire is a sense wire.. Do a search as there have been a few threads on this recently...

The black wire is taken from the switched feed to the rear brake light, so is only on when the ignition is on, It is sometimes called the feedback wire, as it feeds back the charging battery voltage to the rectifier.. if something goes wrong with this feed back wire then apparently the R/R can give out a high voltage.. (Stuffing the battery ), this happen to my XLV at Galloway Forrest.. Battery fried as it was getting 18v.. Then alternator packed in …

I replaced the R/R with a R6 unit of Flea bay.. (Thought it would be the new style FET unit ) that I had put on the AT . This turned out to be a 7 wire SH SCR shunt type..

3 white wires AC from the Alternator
2 negative wires
2 positive wires

Out put 13.6v which is fine to charge the battery ( not as good as an FET unit FH0012 )


No sense wire required

I cut off the connectors on the XLV unit and then soldered and heat shrick sleaced the wires, the black wire I just insulated and left unconnected.. new batter and alternator.. sorted…


I then got an FH0011AA FET unit which has the same plugs FH0012 and FH0008 units ( no wires just plugs but normal spade connectors can be used )

This has 5 connections

3 spades AC from the Alternator

1 positive
1 negative

You simply wire the DC + and – to the battery with fuse in the + lead..

Thes units give out 14.5 volts.. at tick over.. and run cool J

There is more info on the other threads

Cheers

Ray
 

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oh bother futter! but hey mate, very few people seem to have rec/regs run for 18 years! so time for a change:thumbright: ill try and finish my extra heatsink thing this evening and post picks. i build permanent magnet wind generators (same concept as an @ generator), also producing around 350W that has to be recitified from AC to DC. the heat sinks i use to mount the rectifiers on is about double the size of the @ rec/reg! and they still get hot! that fries the diodes inside if you dont deal with the extra energy some how (and/or the batteries) the idea of a heatsink is to dissipate the extra energy by exposing the heat to a large area of air (hence the fins) and thereby getting rid of the energy in the form of heattransfer. so they are made to get hot either way, some more some less. the faster you ride, the more energy you get, but if you draw little, and the battery is full, it has to go somewhere! i use shunt regulators that actually switch on an electric kettle unit when the bateries are full, and that goes red hot! so by for example, placing the heatsink (your rec/reg housing) in a position where more air moves around it (like other bike manufactures do!), or adding a fan to generate more airflow, or making the surface area that dissipates the heat heat larger, all makes a difference in how cool the unit stays. mr honda did put the @ rec/reg (in heatsink) in a crap position as far as effectively doing its job is concerned. so do all the neccisary as described, then get some air over the bugger somehow! so by adding an interconnected heatsink that sits in open airflow will always be a good thing to help dissipate the heat. more surface area (double), more airflow=cool runnings:D
 

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raymo, do you know what type the one on the wemoto site is, under the @ parts section? also a 7 wire unit? i was told its the FET type, but doesnt look like it?
 

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Ride the Sumo!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The black wire is taken from the switched feed to the rear brake light, so is only on when the ignition is on, It is sometimes called the feedback wire,

No sense wire required

I cut off the connectors on the XLV unit and then soldered and heat shrick sleaced the wires, the black wire I just insulated and left unconnected.. new batter and alternator.. sorted…


I then got an FH0011AA FET unit which has the same plugs FH0012 and FH0008 units ( no wires just plugs but normal spade connectors can be used )

This has 5 connections

3 spades AC from the Alternator

1 positive
1 negative

You simply wire the DC + and – to the battery with fuse in the + lead..

Thes units give out 14.5 volts.. at tick over.. and run cool J

There is more info on the other threads

Cheers

Ray
What size fuse and what do you do with the black wire at the frame end of the bike? How did you mount it?
 

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Hi futter the black sense wire should just be insulated as it's not needed 30amp fuse in the red positive feed

Joe the fh00xx have 5 wires some of the sh units do too but some have 2 positive and 2 negative wires hence 7
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Right - one mulit meter - purchased and I now know the following ....

AC current from the stator accross the three wires TO the RR is 37-40V anywhich way you check so the stator is soubd (I also did a continuity check and all ok)

Battery still takes a charge.

Of the 5 wires that exit the RR I ran the meter accross the green(earth) and red (live) and could only get 2.1v on any two pairs.

Is this right? Does it show that basically I have loads of juice going into the RR and none comming out?

Can I therefore assume the RR is fubar'd?

If it is, as much as I can see the sense of fitting an FH00** to be honest, by the time I have bought one, got the wires, wired it up etc, I will be shot by the wife, so I am most likely to get one from Wemoto etc, heat paste it and mount it on a bit of ally. Much easier for me.
 

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Right - one mulit meter - purchased and I now know the following ....

AC current from the stator accross the three wires TO the RR is 37-40V anywhich way you check so the stator is soubd (I also did a continuity check and all ok)

Battery still takes a charge.

Of the 5 wires that exit the RR I ran the meter accross the green(earth) and red (live) and could only get 2.1v on any two pairs.

Is this right? Does it show that basically I have loads of juice going into the RR and none comming out?

Can I therefore assume the RR is fubar'd?

If it is, as much as I can see the sense of fitting an FH00** to be honest, by the time I have bought one, got the wires, wired it up etc, I will be shot by the wife, so I am most likely to get one from Wemoto etc, heat paste it and mount it on a bit of ally. Much easier for me.

ac looks ok so new r/r matie.. the NON FET one on the XLV lasted 25 years so no harm in getting a direct repacement and pluging it in:thumbup:
could be bonus though to go for an FET unit.. cooler and single again:angel5:

well after 15 years:thumbup:
 
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